Problem with a Xootr Swift
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Problem with a Xootr Swift
Hey Swift owners-- I'm encountering a problem with a new Xootr Swift and I wonder if anyone else has experienced it.
When I shift to the small cog, I can hear the chain rubbing on the chainstay. This is more than slap-- there is a scratch through to the metal-- small right now, but I can imagine that if it continues there will be some potential for failure.
I should say that I've already spoken to Xootr and they immediately expressed their willingess to fix or, if necessary, replace. (I'm still in the 30 day return window, though their eagerness to solve the problem didn't seem to me to depend on this).
I really do like the bike. My preference would be to return it, get a new frame without this problem, go on happily. But this seems to me a (potentially) serious issue. Has anyone else encountered this problem? If this is a one-off manufacturing error, fair enough-- things happen. But if this is a design issue, it is another story.
Thoughts?
When I shift to the small cog, I can hear the chain rubbing on the chainstay. This is more than slap-- there is a scratch through to the metal-- small right now, but I can imagine that if it continues there will be some potential for failure.
I should say that I've already spoken to Xootr and they immediately expressed their willingess to fix or, if necessary, replace. (I'm still in the 30 day return window, though their eagerness to solve the problem didn't seem to me to depend on this).
I really do like the bike. My preference would be to return it, get a new frame without this problem, go on happily. But this seems to me a (potentially) serious issue. Has anyone else encountered this problem? If this is a one-off manufacturing error, fair enough-- things happen. But if this is a design issue, it is another story.
Thoughts?
#2
Professional Fuss-Budget
Erm.... how about taking it to your LBS for a tune-up / check-up first?
You should always get a tune-up on any brand-new bike after about 50-100 miles.
You should always get a tune-up on any brand-new bike after about 50-100 miles.
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Is your rear wheel centered?
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How can it be dish, assuming the axles are up against the front of the track ends?
I can't imagine how this problem can arise - there is nothing that can move wrt the chainstay. Perhaps something is bent...? Better check this carefully.
I can't imagine how this problem can arise - there is nothing that can move wrt the chainstay. Perhaps something is bent...? Better check this carefully.
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Don't know why you would assume I haven't, Bacciagalupe-- their read on it was either design or manufacturing error. I'm trying to get a sense of which from other owners.
Good point Maunakea-- it is the seatstay that I meant. There's a little divot that is clearly meant to allow for clearance, but it isn't doing the trick.
The wheel looks centered when I eyeball it, and there's no brake rub problem. Perhaps I don't completely get the concept of dish, but wouldn't there be brake rubbing if it was a badly dished wheel?
I'm gathering that others have not encountered this problem, which is somewhat comforting.
Good point Maunakea-- it is the seatstay that I meant. There's a little divot that is clearly meant to allow for clearance, but it isn't doing the trick.
The wheel looks centered when I eyeball it, and there's no brake rub problem. Perhaps I don't completely get the concept of dish, but wouldn't there be brake rubbing if it was a badly dished wheel?
I'm gathering that others have not encountered this problem, which is somewhat comforting.
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Originally Posted by jur
How can it be dish, assuming the axles are up against the front of the track ends?
Incidentally, jur, why would you ever want the axles up against the track ends? Won't it be hard to change your wheel?
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Creaturely, I have two swift frames, one is an older Zootr with the smaller diameter tubing and the other is the newer one like you have with the larger diameter tubing that I built myself after buying a frameset.
You've noticed the small notch in the seatstay for chain clearance. My older frame doesn't have this but the newer one does. In spite of the notch my chain still rubbed on the seatstay in the highest gear like yours does. My Zootr rear wheel came with two thin shims (about 2mm each) that went between the axle and dropouts. These shims, or washers if you prefer, spaces the cassette away from the Seatstay and since there's one on each side of the axle the wheel remains centered in the dropouts. Did your rear wheel come with these shims and if so are they installed between the axle and inside of the dropouts?
I changed cranksets and when I did this the chainline changed just enough to eliminate the problem. I think the easiest way to solve the problem is too add some shims.
You've noticed the small notch in the seatstay for chain clearance. My older frame doesn't have this but the newer one does. In spite of the notch my chain still rubbed on the seatstay in the highest gear like yours does. My Zootr rear wheel came with two thin shims (about 2mm each) that went between the axle and dropouts. These shims, or washers if you prefer, spaces the cassette away from the Seatstay and since there's one on each side of the axle the wheel remains centered in the dropouts. Did your rear wheel come with these shims and if so are they installed between the axle and inside of the dropouts?
I changed cranksets and when I did this the chainline changed just enough to eliminate the problem. I think the easiest way to solve the problem is too add some shims.
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Originally Posted by spambait11
I meant the rear axle could be slightly askew in the dropouts (esp. if they're not up against the track ends), but the OP says it ain't so.
Incidentally, jur, why would you ever want the axles up against the track ends? Won't it be hard to change your wheel?
Incidentally, jur, why would you ever want the axles up against the track ends? Won't it be hard to change your wheel?
like this:
I don't see why having the axles up against the front makes it more difficult...
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Originally Posted by jur
I wonder if I am misunderstanding what you mean..
like this:
I don't see why having the axles up against the front makes it more difficult...
like this:
I don't see why having the axles up against the front makes it more difficult...
Sorry, I assumed a hub gear or ss/fixed gear. And, duh, the OP sounds like he has a cassette. My bad.
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Originally Posted by creaturely
Has anyone else encountered this problem?
1) Fit shims to wide the seatstays
2) With capreo hub/cassette the 9T cog should see the chain sitting slightly lower and clear the seatstays (this is speculation)
3) (pure speculation, and assuming you also have an 8-speed cassette like me) Converting to a 9-speed cassette with it's slightly narrower chain may also be just enough to clear the seatstays.
Can anyone out there with either the 2) or 3) set-up confirm whether this solves the problem?
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Originally Posted by jur
How can it be dish, assuming the axles are up against the front of the track ends?
I can't imagine how this problem can arise - there is nothing that can move wrt the chainstay. Perhaps something is bent...? Better check this carefully.
I can't imagine how this problem can arise - there is nothing that can move wrt the chainstay. Perhaps something is bent...? Better check this carefully.
You are correct. I answered quickly without thinking. In any event, it sounds like some simple spacers (ie. washers) might help him out. Will the aluminum frame allow enough flex to add a spacer? I would contact Xootr and see before doing it, just to cover your bases as far as warranty is concerned.
Juan
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Something in the way the rear triangle compresses when the axle is tightened. For instance, my Surly hub is spaced at 130mm. My Swift is 135mm. I added 2 x 1mm axle spacers on each side of the axle and mounted the wheel on the bike. When viewed from behind, the wheel was not centered between the seat stays (about 3mm closer to the drive-side). Curious, I mounted the stock wheel, and it was the same deal. To resolve this, I re-spaced my Surly hub so that I have 3 x 1mm spacers on the drive side, and 1 x 1mm spacer on the non-drive side. I don't know if this is a design flaw, or perhaps a feature for attaining the correct chainline, but I noticed that having the rear wheel cenetered makes hands-free riding so much easier now.
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Just wanted to end with an update. After speaking with the folks at Xootr, I sent the bike back (they arranged for a pickup and paid for shipping). The bike tech there says that the chain rub was a manufacturing problem. They switched out the rear end of the bike (and a lot more, it looks like to me-- brake pads, tires at the very least-- possibly wheels?) and returned a swift that looked brand new, and rides better than before.
The original problem is solved, and I am extremely pleased with Xootr's commitment to customer service.
The original problem is solved, and I am extremely pleased with Xootr's commitment to customer service.
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Just wanted to end with an update. After speaking with the folks at Xootr, I sent the bike back (they arranged for a pickup and paid for shipping). The bike tech there says that the chain rub was a manufacturing problem. They switched out the rear end of the bike (and a lot more, it looks like to me-- brake pads, tires at the very least-- possibly wheels?) and returned a swift that looked brand new, and rides better than before.
The original problem is solved, and I am extremely pleased with Xootr's commitment to customer service.
The original problem is solved, and I am extremely pleased with Xootr's commitment to customer service.
Steve, Karl, and Brian @Xootr are extremely helpful and responsive. When I sent an email to Xootr about the cracked seat tube on my previous Swift, I got an email confirmation of a replacement bike in 30 minutes. At the time, the Silver bike was sold-out, so they even offered to send me a loaner bike to use until new stock arrived.
#19
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Just wanted to end with an update. After speaking with the folks at Xootr, I sent the bike back (they arranged for a pickup and paid for shipping). The bike tech there says that the chain rub was a manufacturing problem. They switched out the rear end of the bike (and a lot more, it looks like to me-- brake pads, tires at the very least-- possibly wheels?) and returned a swift that looked brand new, and rides better than before.
The original problem is solved, and I am extremely pleased with Xootr's commitment to customer service.
The original problem is solved, and I am extremely pleased with Xootr's commitment to customer service.
Makes me want to buy one now.
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#22
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+1 ^
I got rid of my hybrid bikes and replaced them with folders.
I don't have the heart to get rid of my road bikes though.
I got rid of my hybrid bikes and replaced them with folders.
I don't have the heart to get rid of my road bikes though.
Last edited by DVC45; 10-24-10 at 08:40 PM.
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tips for Clydes?
Hi, so I'm finally at the weight limit for the Swift and happy to be eligible after dropping 41#. I still want to be cautious though - ant advice?
I was wondering in particular whether I should switch from the stock tires to the high-pressure version, or to other tires like the schwalbe marathons. I do see a bit f tire drop in the rear.
Also is there a case to be made for carrying loads up front, to minimize pressure on the rear wheel? The spokes are so short that I imagine it's fairly strong, but I've blown enough spokes that I want to be careful. I hear the crossrack will mount on the riser and even heard that a load in front can make the steering less "twitchy"
Other ideas for heavier riders? I love this bike - just put a front derailluer on it last night - and want to make sure I'm not overloading it.
I was wondering in particular whether I should switch from the stock tires to the high-pressure version, or to other tires like the schwalbe marathons. I do see a bit f tire drop in the rear.
Also is there a case to be made for carrying loads up front, to minimize pressure on the rear wheel? The spokes are so short that I imagine it's fairly strong, but I've blown enough spokes that I want to be careful. I hear the crossrack will mount on the riser and even heard that a load in front can make the steering less "twitchy"
Other ideas for heavier riders? I love this bike - just put a front derailluer on it last night - and want to make sure I'm not overloading it.