All the Olympic cycling got me to watching keirin racing, which in turn got me to wondering if the Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS)-- which is the standard to which our Nano headsets are spec'd, apparently-- is just as dead in Japan as it is here. The answer, you may be interested to know, is no.

It turns out that keirin racers still use JIS spec headsets! So, I went looking for sources, and discovered that there are several USA shops that specializes in track bikes and parts, and offer at least a couple of different headsets beyond the chrome VeloOrange unit that has been mentioned here in the thread before.

The downside is cost; a black Tange unit runs about $45, while a top-of-the-line Hatta racing certified model in blue anodize will run about $200.

And its the blue one I want so badly...

http://www.wrenchscience.com/DBImage..._blue_2009.jpg

Anyway, for those seeking headset options, there are a few out there.

Will this work ona Nano?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodman-Comp...item41647a9d82

That's a sweet headset, that Woodman, but it requires a new, non-threaded fork to work on a Nano, and if one is game to pony up for that, then you arrive at the possibility of just using a more common, less pricey, ISO headset.

A new, lighter fork would be awfully nice, though!

Hello, total bike noob here but I might get a used one this monday. I've been looking at derailers for it and im wondering if it's possible to fit a shimano tiagra or deore. Are there specific measurements I need to keep in mind before purchasing one? and what tools might I need to install a set? thanks!

The stock mechs are one of the better parts of the bike, to be honest. Aside from the wheels, frame, and seatpost clamp, they're all that's left stock on mine.

Broadly speaking, mechs come in three groupings: short, medium and long. This refers to length of the deraileur pulley cages (the two small wheels the chain goes through). Shorter cages shift faster and the longer cages allow a bigger spread on the rear sprockets/freehub. You probably do not want to use a long cage; this is because the bottom pulley will be very close to the ground on a bike with wheels the size of the Nano's. I believe the stock mech is medium cage. You likely will not notice the shifting difference between derailleurs, at least not much. I don't.

Every derailleur made now threads into a Campy style threaded hanger. In the distant past, they did not. You should not have interchangability problems.

Chad, thanks for the research on JIS style headsets.

Poguemahone answered most of your questions, and I agree you should have no problem fitting another derailleur, say Tiagra, to this bike. To do so, all you really need is an 8mm Allen key for the hanger bolt, a 6mm for the cable bolt, and a medium Phillips screwdriver to set limit and tension screws. Oh, and maybe a small pliers to help pull the cable taught.

There is a whole forum on mechanics and repair, and I'm sure you can find details on derailleur setup there.

Its not, the shot is slightly overexposed...

Hello and thank you for the replies, I finally got a nano and I suppose I'll leave the derailers stock. I'm considering upgrading the tires first. from what I gather, it seems that panaracers, schwalbe marathon, kendas are much preferred here. What would you guys recommend for value and durability (I'd like to save money if possible)? I'm also looking into tubes, can I fit tubes with those tires? If so, which should I get? And finally, how hard is it to install tires and rim tape on your own (what tools would I need?) or is it better if I just have my local bike shop do it for me? thank you!

I took my mini velo into the LBS and had them do a thorough greasing (hubs, seatpost, headset, BB), adjust the brakes (triflow, but the brakes are needing a replacement and getting it soon) and other adjustments along with truing the wheels. It cost $85 and was well worth it. Ask for a quote. Turns out the guy at the shop also had a mini velo and cut me a deal.

I think you need to learn how to take the tires off/on along with the tubes. Putting on the rim tape is super easy. All you need is Velo Wide rim tape (get 2, since it's 1 per wheel), tire levers and a knife to cut it.

thanks NMBuff. I rode the bike today and got a flat tube after 2miles... Now Ive decided to get rim tape and decent tubes... my question is what size rim tape should I get?.. Im so confused with the variety and I dont know how to find my measurements... thanks!

Velox Rim Tape - Wide x2

You're going to cut the tape after you go around it (it doesn't have to be flush, in fact overlap it a little; I did by an inch or so).

As far as tubes, the stock tires at 20" x 1.5". It's important to note that when they use the decimal rating it's different than the fractional (1/8") meaning. Bike tire companies are weird.

uh oh, i just bought 16mm plastic velox rim tape from ebay... would that work okay? Also, after much reading I'm thinking about purchasing a schwalbe sv6 tube. I know it's a dumb question but does one box come with pairs or not? (Sorry, never done any of this before..) Thank you.

I don't know the width measurements of the rim, but just check and see that the tape is covering the spoke holes; that's all it needs to do.

Tubes are sold singly, per box.

I think I mentioned earlier that I don't think the rim strips are the problem, but rather incredibly poor quality tubes, so yes, replacing them is recommended by me, as is replacing the rubber rim strips with cloth tape, since I don't know if the rubber ones really suck and Velox looks pro. :)

EDIT: Oh, I just noticed you got Velox plastic rim tape; dunno anything about that, but it's probably just fine. I've seen plastic strips before, but never used them.

In general, no. Plastic and rubber strips need to be matched to the wheel diameter. There's a bit of play (rim strips for 700 c rims will fit on 27 inch rims, for example) but the rim sizes need to be close. Most plastic ones are 700c. The Nano wheels are 406 (it is an iso sizing method; don't ask. It's a bit of a dissertation). If you got the right size, you're fine. Cloth rim stripping is sticky backed; and by cutting it, you can fit it to a variety of wheel sizes. I've know folks to use duct tape or handlebar tape to make a rim strip; you just need to punch a hole in it for the stem valve.

The strips generally come in pairs; not a dumb question at all.

Thanks for the response guys. Today I learned how to change and repair my tubes (spent about 3-4 hours and my hands and arms hurt lol). First I patched a hole, got off and about a quarter mile my other tube broke... So instead, I switched to schawlbe tubes and things seem okay so far. The stock tubes are really a huge pain... :( again, thanks!

Sigh, don't go with the Schwalbe Kojaks. Holy hell, they are just as bad to get on the bike as the Kenda's. I've done everything I can to get them on and I can't.

Tried putting them in the sun to expand, looked at Youtube videos for proper installation of a tough tire, tried levers and baby powder. It's all a no go and incredibly frustrating. UGH! I don't want to take it into the LBS to get this fixed because I'd like to be able to get them on/off myself since I imagine I'll be getting more flats in the future.

Next time I'm going with a folding tire like I did with my Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tires.

Hi NMbuffm I was thinking of getting schwalbe marathon or durano.. Is it possible to fit a 20 x 1.75 tires into the stock nano rims which are 20 x 1.50? I guess I will save up to get this upgrade.

20 x 1.75 tires on a 20 x 1.50 rim is no problem.

Did you get wire bead Kojaks? Typically, folding (i.e. kevlar bead) tires are much easier to mount than wire bead.

EDIT: I don't read too good; just saw your last sentence!

Go forth and get thyself a tire jack.

I used soap to help slip the tires in but it still took a lot of effort. my arms are kinda buff now because of that lol.. Is there an advantage to using 20 x 1.75 tires as opposed to 1.50? And im thinking of getting that cree 1000 lumen light, anyone have experience with those? They should come with handlebar mounts right? o:

Yeah, good old Sheldon Brown sugggested that I buy one. I did so last night. I am worried about getting flats on the road.

Oh, and the Kojaks are 1.35" wire bead tires that I bought were only $27/piece. The folding version is over $50+. Way to too spend on a bike that only cost me $300.

Then again, I may reconsider if I get a flat when I'm not anywhere near my house.

Just a smoother ride. It may take more effort to go fast, but shouldn't be too much of a concern.

I have a 1200 lumen cree I bought off of ebay coming in. Go to the LED/Electronics forum and see what everyone has to say. People do seem to enjoy them.

Edit: As soon as I have my tires on I'll post a few photos. I put on the white tektro's suggested, white handlebar tape and black tektro levers. I'd like to get white cable housing, but I think there's other things I'd like to change on the bike so I'd rather save some money (and time) for now.

what brooks saddle would you guys recommend for this? b17 or team pro?

Saddle is really not bike dependent. It's more arse dependent. Ride on one you like. I've ridden on a great number of saddles over the years and both those Brooks suit me fine. If you know you like one or the other buy that one.

My fave saddle is the Ideale on my Eisentraut. But the cheap one on my Nano is fine as well. I suppose my tuckus ain't very picky.