Is it OK to reverse seatpost?
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Is it OK to reverse seatpost?
I would like to try a more upright position on my Dahon Vitesse D7HG. My saddle is currently moved forward up to the maximum position and handlepost is also moved to the highest position.
I wonder if it's ok to reverse the seatpost since head is slightly moved back (I mean nothing breaks etc)?
I wonder if it's ok to reverse the seatpost since head is slightly moved back (I mean nothing breaks etc)?
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Welcome, how tall are you and what size is your inseam?
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It surely won't work, you won't be able to angle the saddle correctly as there angle of the stock seat post clamp isn't adjustable enough.
#6
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You have my permission ...
plain seatpost and separate saddle clip can be assembled either side of the seat post
It's a part of the way Brompton fits their one bike to so many people.
their pentaclip is The Best.
plain seatpost and separate saddle clip can be assembled either side of the seat post
It's a part of the way Brompton fits their one bike to so many people.
their pentaclip is The Best.
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-28-11 at 09:01 PM.
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Advise you take care to maintain proper knee position in relation to pedal spindle. Too far forward can cause knee pain and even injury.
If your saddle is otherwise okay it is generally a bad idea to mess with its position in order to change distance to handlebars. If you want to get more upright it's much better to get a shorter stem, a stem riser or both.
If your saddle is otherwise okay it is generally a bad idea to mess with its position in order to change distance to handlebars. If you want to get more upright it's much better to get a shorter stem, a stem riser or both.
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That's subjective. I don't like that fact that it does not have notches (difficult to restore a previous position when reinstalling) and all those inner disks that fall off when you remove it.
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I'd strongly advise against it unless you return the saddle in the forward position... otherwise your kiwis will get squashed on the wide section of the saddle and you may end up with a deeply penetrating melvin from the nose of the saddle.
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its usually much better to move the handlebar up and back.... there is a so called Comfort handlepost available.... note that we are talking about a couple degrees difference. Its not as much as change the whole geometry of the bike.... its expensive and needs care to change... most likely a bike dealer needs to do the swap ..... expect maybe 30 to 50 dlr labour...
Or one can use the aber hallo stem
https://www.thorusa.com/dahon/technical/aberhallo.htm
much easier to deal with and can be mounted so the handlbar is much clser to you....
Alternatively a Handlebar with a rise of up to 2 inches and a diameter of 25.4 usually refered to as MTB size ... can make a big difference.
https://www.thorusa.com/dahon/accessories/handlebar.htm
or even a Handlebar with a generous sweep in the back can make huge improvemts as well....
lots of possibilities
thor
Or one can use the aber hallo stem
https://www.thorusa.com/dahon/technical/aberhallo.htm
much easier to deal with and can be mounted so the handlbar is much clser to you....
Alternatively a Handlebar with a rise of up to 2 inches and a diameter of 25.4 usually refered to as MTB size ... can make a big difference.
https://www.thorusa.com/dahon/accessories/handlebar.htm
or even a Handlebar with a generous sweep in the back can make huge improvemts as well....
lots of possibilities
thor
#12
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and all those inner disks that fall off when you remove it.
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Conventional wisdom is that with cranks horizontal forward knee should be directly over or slightly behind the pedal spindle. Best to use a plumb line to ascertain this. (Obviously you need to stabilize the bike against something to take this measurement, unless you can set it into a trainer.)