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r20 / Dawes Kingpin -- 135mm rear end?

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r20 / Dawes Kingpin -- 135mm rear end?

Old 12-03-11, 03:22 AM
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bendembroski
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r20 / Dawes Kingpin -- 135mm rear end?

I'm sitting here looking at a nice set of wheels I have that are currently going unused.

It's a set of 406 rims laced to SA / drum braked hubs (8 speed rear). I'm thinking that maybe something like a Dawes Kingpin or r20 might be a good frame to build up around these wheels as a winter / trailer pulling machine...

I know the front fork should be able to be spread to 100mm without too much trouble. Any idea if the rear triangle will be "easily" spread to 135mm to take the rear hub?

If so, how about fitting big apples (406), is there clearance?

Alternatively, if there are any suggestions for a decent (and cheap) frame that could be used to house this wheelset, I'm all ears!
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Old 12-03-11, 05:18 PM
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Yes it will fit in a R20 or Kingpin with the rear spread a bit. I'm guessing you're in the UK as you mention the Kingpin? If you're anywhere near Bristol I have a Cresswell Fold-it Frame and forks I keep meaning to get rid of.

I was meaning to rebuild it but parts keep getting nicked for other bikes so its just a frame and forks now. The forks even have the braze on for a front drum brake arm. It rode really well until the rear hub failed on me. I currently ride a Kingpin with a 135mm back end and would have to say both frames are pretty equal in ride quality.
I would however point out that having built a Kingpin with 406 wheels I immediately wished I had used 451's for better ground clearance, but you get used to it.
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Old 12-04-11, 04:28 AM
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Thanks for the info! I'll send you a PM about the fold-it.

In the meantime, any thoughts on if 406 Big Apple's will fit on a r20 / kingpin / fold-it ?
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Old 12-04-11, 07:18 AM
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I run marathons on my kingpin and there isn't great clearance on the chainstays so I doubt it would work on a Kingpin, I know people have used them on R20's.
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Old 12-04-11, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by bendembroski View Post
I know the front fork should be able to be spread to 100mm without too much trouble.
I spread mine; you can see pictures of my jig (overkill) at this site. I also had to bend one of the blades so that they would align laterally. There was nothing easy about it.

http://raleightwenty.webs.com/apps/p...otoid=97427216

Originally Posted by bendombroski View Post
Any idea if the rear triangle will be "easily" spread to 135mm to take the rear hub?
I wonder about this. The stays are pretty short, and the brake bridge makes the seat stays effectively shorter. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone that did it how much leverage is needed.
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Old 12-04-11, 10:46 AM
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I had a frame builder do my Kingpin for me and converted it to take deraileurs at the same time. One issue may be chain clearance on the seat stays, 8 speed hubs use large sprockets and the angle of the seat stays will be rather severe.
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Old 12-04-11, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Russcoles11 View Post
I had a frame builder do my Kingpin for me and converted it to take deraileurs at the same time. One issue may be chain clearance on the seat stays, 8 speed hubs use large sprockets and the angle of the seat stays will be rather severe.
Good point that. I might be better off rebuilding the wheels to a 26" and using a conventional frame.
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Old 12-04-11, 07:05 PM
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The Fold-it frame would work, it was designed for Hub brakes and gears.
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Old 12-05-11, 10:48 AM
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I've done it on a R20- It took surprisingly little force since the stays are made of hi-ten steel rather than something with a little spring like Chromoly. I just used Sheldon Brown's method and aligned the dropouts afterward. I installed a S/A XRFD-8 with a drum brake. I used a cut-down noodle to make the turn on the gear-shift cable.

For the front, I cut the head-tube and replaced the fork with a 180mm 20" MTB version ($26 from Niagara) with canti brakes. Now I have good braking rather than anemic braking.
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