The D9 and D10 curve are fitted with V brakes, the straight frame models are fitted with dual pivot caliper brakes. I have no experience of the curve models but the straight frame model are standard fitting so if you want to upgrade the components any dual pivot caliper should do. I am not aware of any difference in the front wheel attachment between the two frame types.

hi the difference is spoken about earliwr in this or the upgrading mezzo thread.
newer fprk qr mpre secure but older ok. need more tools to remove wheel on older version. I bought the whole fork and qr and muddguard from mezzo to upgrade my older black bike For 100 pounds . Newer seat post clamp 12 pounds. brakes no real change but fit teflon coated innera and better pads Are well worth ffitting at the rear.
not alot else is different.

Don't let it put you off an older bike if the price right. not sure if mezzo spares still obtainable.

The bikes are still available to buy so I hope the spares will still be available as well.

Trying to figure out what bottom bracket tool is needed to get the original BB off a D9. I thought it was a Shimano/ISIS 20 slot internal spline one? The slots in the cups do not look like the pictures I've seen here Park Tool Co. » BBT-32 : Bottom Bracket Tool : Bottom Bracket though. The BB cups have 4 groups of 3 small slots spaced by 4 larger slots, but maybe this tool will fit..

My BB is clunking on every downstroke - either bearing gone or loose cups.

Bill

Maybe also check the chainring bolts and the chain catcher.

I had a look at the BB on my Mezzo I4 and it is the same as yours. I have never seen one like that before. If I get time over the weekend I will see if my Shimano BB tool fits.

None of these look right?
Park Tool Co.

Or swop out for a carbon crank with hallow tech bb.
Some road racer will be selling off last years model cheaply on ebay.
You may need a bb spacer if you do this also.

Good news, the Shimano tool fits.

Bottom bracket with crank removed:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=394096

With the tool in place:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=394097


http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=394098

Hi Folks
I'm new to this forum and i am looking for my first used Mezzo. I really want a D9 as I use my folders for touring as well as commuting and the extra gears are essential. That said there are more i4's around and they tend to sell for a bit less. Is it feasible to convert the i4 to the 9 gear system found on the D9 and is it cost effective please? I have mechanical skills but I haven't done much beyond routine maintenance and tuning on bikes. Sorry if my question is naive , but we all have to start somewhere.

Thanks

Dexterdobe

I would convert the i4 to a nexus8 or afline8 or 11 for touring. This will go straight on , just swallow cost of a wheel build...
Its worth it.
Else go the dual drive route which needs a little problem solving skills but works really well. If you go dual drive cpq recommend s going for a d9 So yyou don't need mech hangers.

Going for a quality ihg means a lot less hasstle as you can keep chain standard , don't need a cassette etc.

It will seem expensive but save the money going for a cheaper i4 and put it towards the wheel build.

Try to get a later model with the better qr systems 2004 onwards??



There is a dual drive mezzo thread.

I have added a suspension telescopic seatpost that can be shared between my mezzos. That was very cheap and may be good at reducing mezzos harsh ride.

Welcome Dexterdobe. I am with Bhkyte on this. I have basically done what you are describing, albeit converting and I4 to Sram dual drive. My advice is do not get an I4 get a D9 instead.
To convert an I4 into a D9 you need:
- A new wheel or rebuild the old rim into a new hub.
- A 9 speed cassette.
- A rear mech.
- A new rear mech hanger or file/machine the old one down as its too fat.
- A 9 speed shifter.
- A larger chainring because the existing will be under-geared.
- Potentially a longer chain, especially if you go for a larger chainring.
- A lot of spare time and money.

I did all the work myself but I have the skills and equipment to do it but I wouldn't recommend it because of the time involved and because the price difference between the two models is less than the cost of the additional parts.
If you wanted to convert to a hub gear with more gears such as 8 or 11 then an I4 would be as good choice as an D9.
I would like to try converting either model to a triple chainring, I think it could be done quite cheaply.
Excellent choice of fold bike though, they are well built, compact and a fraction of the price of a more well known small wheeled folding bike. The Mezzo also has a much bigger and more useful rear rack for touring. My dual drive mezzo with bull bars and Kojak tyres is quick and efficient.

Good luck.

I did all the work myself but I have the skills and equipment to do it but I wouldn't recommend it because of the time involved and because the price difference between the two models is less than the cost of the additional parts.
If you wanted to convert to a hub gear with more gears such as 8 or 11 then an I4 would be as good choice as an D9.
I would like to try converting either model to a triple chainring, I think it could be done quite cheaply.
Excellent choice of fold bike though, they are well built, compact and a fraction of the price of a more well known small wheeled folding bike. The Mezzo also has a much bigger and more useful rear rack for touring. My dual drive mezzo with bull bars and Kojak tyres is quick and efficient.

Good luck.[/QUOTE]

Many thanks Guys,

Given that I have little experience of working on bikes I think that I will pay the extra for a D9. I'm sure I will be back for more information later.

Dexterdobe

Hi

Some further thought on conversion. Please bear in mind that I am experienced in car mechanics but new to bikes.
What is it likely to cost me to convert to an 8 or 11 speed hub. Which hub would you recommend and how much would it cost me to have the hub built into my existing wheel?

Thanks

Dexterdobe

Hi. The first thing is the cost of whichever hub you decide to go with. I guess the most common is the Shimano Alfine range of hubs but I think Sram do some as well, have a look on the net for reviews before deciding which is best for you. Second is the cost of the shifter as most gear hubs need a specific shifter and are not generally compatible with dérailleur shifters. If you buy a hub that has the same number of spoke holes as the wheel currently fitted to bike then you can re-use the rum, otherwise you will need a new rim costing between £25 and £40. You will probably need new spokes as the spoke length will be different to your current wheel. Finally the cost of wheel build. Unfortunately I can not help with pricing spokes or labour for the bike shop to build the wheel. As you are mechanically minded you can try building it yourself, there are good books on the subject and lots of info on the net. Getting the spokes the correct length is slightly trickier, I cut my spokes down from longer spokes and then re-threaded them. I bought a spoke threading tool for that job but they are not cheap and the threading process is laborious. If you think you will get into biking and wheel building then get the gear and try building a wheel, otherwise I think getting a bike shop to do it for you will be the better option.

I and afaik, cpq opted for the dual drive as frequently there are good deals on used or new hubs on ebay. I got a 3x7 for less then 30 pounds and my 3x9 was around 100.
Rim about 30 if spoke number not compactable and wheel build about 50.
I opted for dd as I wanted ultergra sti road race shifters , as dd is fully compactable with sram and shimano shifting.
You can also go the road race route with nexus or afline 8 and 11 speeds. But you need a"versa" shifter.

Should be able a hub for about 100 used and a wheel build for 5o to 100 depending if you reuse the rim. Sell the d4 wheel or hub to recoupe some money.

About 150 to 350 total cost should be achievable depending on final decision.

Thanks to both of you guys. I think the thing that will sway my decision is that I can repair the gears on the D9 myself if they go wrong where as a hub is a job for the pros.
Its really good to be able to make a decision based on the experience of others, so thanks again.

Best wishes

Dexterdobe

The geara on the d9 are under geared for fast riding. The chainring can only be increased 2 teeth to a 56 atb informedd me.
Low gears arw easy on small wheeled folders. Gearing up can be more troublesome. The advantage of ihg is the overdrive.

Shimano nexus 8 is over drive from gear 4 afaicr and a sa 8 is overdrive from gear 2.

If you want higher gears the larger front chain ring option is not an option on a drailler mezzo.
Dual drive gives a decent 36 overdrive and underdrive which is about perfect with a 54 feont chainring

Are there any Mezzo / Ori owners in the US, &\or Northern Califorinia? How available\easy are parts maintenance? What exactly is proprietary?

Am I really looking at $300-$700 to upgrade to nexus/alfine 8 or 11, when/if? Is the $300 too low, since I require parts and labor?
Is an I-4 really any smaller or lighter than Dahon Speed 7? I've seen conflicting information for i-4, 25.5 lbs vs 27 lbs for i-4, which is it (with fender rack)?
I-4's W13"xH25.2"xL29.53" W33cm H64cm L75cm doesn't seem smaller than 11.8" × 30.3" × 25.2" Dahon . I gues .8" can "make the difference" on occasion, baggage that will fit it? I'm clear Bromptons 9.8" x 21" x 22" in spite of more weight, wins this race. But I'm really not comfortable riding brompton or BF tikit (even when/if i could afford it) around my 'hoods thugs.
Is $500 "new", collecting dust at LBS, a good deal on I-4 (not sure what year)?

I'm kind of clear, if it was an option, I'd want Mezzo D9, Ori M9/M10, even a C8, before I'd want an I-4, but those aren't going to be available and I don't want to dismiss it out of hand.
I noticed some people who are taller prefer Mezzo - is 5'3" too short?

If it makes any difference, I'm 5'3", heavy, multimodal commuting, there are hills/grades in SF/Oak/Bay area (though I don't think the grades are major where I have to go, as opposed to where I might want to go). Does my area, or even just wanting to "get to work faster", mean I am likely to regret the I-4, pre -upgrade, sooner, than later over comparable more speed or greater gear range bikes? Or am I fairly safe, since at the moment, I won't really have experience of "better", so I don't know any better? Been a while since I rode a bike and I never really rode my mountain bike fast, unless I was coasting down a major grade.
I'm sure "test ride" is recommended, but that has its own challenges at the moment.

Mezzo riders seem to like the way a Mezzo rides/folds compared to other 16" wheel folders.. 16"wheel folders will be more compact in general than 20".. The Shimano 4 speed IGH is a nice quiet hub (although discontinued) that works well for small wheel bikes as gear 1 is 1:1 and the other 3 gears are overdrive .. overall range is only 184%, so just over what a 3 speed hub would be, but obviously closer ratios between gears.. the shifter is proprietary and hard to come by.. good news is a Shimano 7 or 8 speed shifter will work in 1 through 4 .. I'd ride the Mezzo at the LBS to see if you liked it, then put in a low offer.. if it's been sitting forever there might be some incentive to clear stock.. my thinking is that a NOS I4 would be in the $300/350 range.. I had the 4 speed Shimano in a 20" folder and liked it a lot.

Re i4
Hi I have not owned an i4. I do have a i4 wheel spare for a project which has not yer been precieved yet!!
Afaik their us potential in the i4.
Fitting a twin chainring? Seems possible if you forgo the chainguard. And as you mention the i4 has more overdrive potention
You just need a front mech mounting bracket. Which will be either a dahon brommie or custom.

Thanks BruceMetras and bhkyte for the feedback. Definitely, encourages me to make the minimal investment to at least go check it out, soon. Worst case, I'll be more informed and out small travel time\$. If it passes inspection\negotiation, then that'll bring its own rewards, then upgrade &/or second future prospects don't sound bad, either way.
They do offer a year of free tune-ups, though their distance from me, and the rep for "slow", "lazy" and "shady" makes me think I won't take as much advantage of it to weigh it very heavily in their favor, but I'll still consider in the value of the purchase.

I rode my first 2.9 miles, split by bus and rail, yesterday on my new 2010 Mezzo I-4 yesterday.
Took some horrible pictures while waiting for a bus:
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=408703http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=408704
Larger handlebar side. Larger back wheel side.

I think I paid $50-90 more than I should have, but most of my other options would have cost me more anyways. In many ways it all felt like one of those meant to be things, so I went with it. It in some ways looks like someone had it for a week or two and changed their mind, than new out of box, with the scrapes and scuffs, though it mostly looks new.
I definitely need a cover of some sort.
Steering by seat on the tiny rack wheels, looks a bit like drunk driving, especially if I'm not on the handlebar side. I laughed, rather than being frustrated, at any rate and didn't smack anyone or anything. They also suck for going over even tiny bumps and gaps where I have to lift. I figure I'll take my Mezzo down to nearby skate shop, which I think has inline, as well as board wheels.
I'll make a separte post about folding, since I'm bad at it and this is long enough. Although I will comment I wish I'd noticed in shop the cable sheaths were already chewed.
The saddle has to go, although I can actually see and feel that for a stock saddle, it is actually better than my limited past experience and others I've seen on bikes I never owned. I need to play with seat height more, and mark the spot on the post, where things work best. For now, I use the side of my body for quick reference.
The grip texture is grippy, but a bit rough on my hands. So I will want to switch those out, maybe break out my leather fingerless, until I get a hold of cycling fingerless.


It's my first IGH bike, so I'm enjoying that difference even if it is a discontinued 4 speeds. Quieter and smoother, indeed. I like the stock fenders, though I'm not ready to actually take advantage of its purpose right away.
I really should have picked up a light, any light.
I want to learn to attach things to the rack. Actually, until I get a different bag, I might need to attach it to the rack, because it's trying to swing forward instead of staying on my back, where weight can be kept centered.
I've no idea how to get a hold of Ori bags in the US, but I'd definitely like to get a 3 way bag. And the picture of a person wearing the handlebar bag as a bum bag, cracks me up. I would have called it a you know what pack, but I know there's Brits and Aussies about this forum.
The difference between good surfaces and bad was keenly felt. At least the stock tires have kevlar protection. They pumped them up very firm. I don't know the pressure range and forgot to ask. Also enjoying the acceleration of smaller wheels.

I did it guys. I slashed £340 out for a

Nice one, and just in time for spring. Did you get a D9?

I did it. I bought a D9 Curve in as new condition for £340. The bike is brilliant. It feels so much more modern and high tech than a certain other popular brand. It is definitely under geared though.
I'm told that the 56T chain ring from the D10 fits the D9. Questions please. Where can I buy a D10 ring or another make that fits the D9 and do I need a longer chain if I fit the 56T ring?

Many thanks

Dexterdobe

That is a good price for a curve. You might need a longer chain, see what the rear derailier looks like when you have the chain ring fitted. There is plenty of info on the net about getting the chain length right and how it affects the rear derailier angles. You will need a chainwheel with the correct number of bolt holes and the correct PCD to fit the crank. Again there is plenty of info on the net about how to work out what PCD your crank is. You shouldn't need to buy a D10 specific chain wheel. Good luck.

Thanks for this Cpg. The bike came with all sorts of bits and pieces (helmut, tools, lock etc), so it was a good deal. It was simply a matter of being patient and waiting for the right deal on ebay. I missed a lot as the prices were too high, but patience paid off in the end.
I live in Norfolk, England. If anyone can give me a local source for the parts that would be great. I'm new to bike upgrades so I need some help to make sure I get the right chain wheel guys.

Best wishes

Dexterdobe

To start with take a look at Sheldon Browns web site for information on chain rinds and PCD.

Quote". Don't know where I can get Ori bags in....."

The tactuff range of panniers and racks appear to be the same as mezzo range. Cqp has asked dealer if they fit mezzos, but they could confirm 100 pc that they were identical slots.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/b/AOIQYQ6BLC434