Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Folding Bikes
Reload this Page >

Swift folders

Notices
Folding Bikes Discuss the unique features and issues of folding bikes. Also a great place to learn what folding bike will work best for your needs.

Swift folders

Old 01-03-12, 01:47 PM
  #2926  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
humongous chainrings

Originally Posted by DVC45
Where do you guys buy these humongous chain rings?
I want to have a 65t for my Nova.
Hostel Shoppe sells recumbents and they also sell special chainrings--65t and 73t. There is a website, <https://www.ihpva.org/Builder>, which has plans you can download for a 72t, 82t, 92t chainring.
David McCreary is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 07:48 AM
  #2927  
idc
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia/DC
Posts: 1,454

Bikes: quite a few

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Anyone know how you can get disc brakes on a Swift? This bike shop seems to carry them ($140 more than their starting price), for steel framed Swifts (so not the Xootr branded ones).

https://hpm.catoregon.org/?page_id=214
idc is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 07:56 AM
  #2928  
My legs hurt
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Farther behind you than I'd like to be
Posts: 683

Bikes: Vaya, Brompton, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, Cresswell Fold-it, '81 Trek 610

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by idc
Anyone know how you can get disc brakes on a Swift? This bike shop seems to carry them ($140 more than their starting price), for steel framed Swifts (so not the Xootr branded ones).

https://hpm.catoregon.org/?page_id=214
That's seems to be the easiest way (having HPM do up a frame / fork with the disc fittings attached).

The Xootr frame is aluminium, so getting mounts attached to the rear is going to be tricky. The Xootr fork is steel, so anyone handy with a torch should be able to help you out there.

Just curious, why discs?
bendembroski is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 08:24 AM
  #2929  
idc
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia/DC
Posts: 1,454

Bikes: quite a few

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm considering a Swift but I would really want drop bars (and probably a FD) so I'm guessing the stock v-brakes would have to go. That led me to think well, why not replace them with discs, and I saw a pic on xootr's site of a Swift with disc brakes.
( https://www.xootr.com/gallery_swift-f...0disc%20brakes )

Actually I have never put a drop bar on a bike or done any work with brifters etc so I don't really know how it would work... most of my bikes have been flat bars but I've been addicted to my road bike since I bought it 6 months ago. The only problem is that it's not very portable, hence the Swift idea.
idc is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 08:54 AM
  #2930  
My legs hurt
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Farther behind you than I'd like to be
Posts: 683

Bikes: Vaya, Brompton, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, Cresswell Fold-it, '81 Trek 610

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Bar end shifters & v-brake levers will work with no problems. It's what I did when I used bullhorns on my Swift. Waaaay simpler than disc conversion.
bendembroski is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 09:38 AM
  #2931  
Senior Member
 
mtalinm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Posts: 2,215

Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'd be happy with a disc brake in front. Is there more to it than a new fork and a new front wheel? I hardly use the back brake anyway
mtalinm is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 01:33 PM
  #2932  
idc
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia/DC
Posts: 1,454

Bikes: quite a few

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think the cabling from a v-brake is the same as a mech disc brake so a new fork and wheel should do it.

Originally Posted by bendembroski
Bar end shifters & v-brake levers will work with no problems. It's what I did when I used bullhorns on my Swift. Waaaay simpler than disc conversion.
I don't want bar end shifters though. I was thinking something like Tiagra or 105.
idc is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 01:43 PM
  #2933  
My legs hurt
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Farther behind you than I'd like to be
Posts: 683

Bikes: Vaya, Brompton, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, Cresswell Fold-it, '81 Trek 610

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Most disc brakes use the same cable pull as v-brakes. Avid BB7's come in a road version that pull the same amount as road callipers.

Have you looked at travel-agents?
bendembroski is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 08:29 PM
  #2934  
Senior Member
 
mtalinm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Posts: 2,215

Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
yeah this is a bummer in general. if you want drop bars and 406 wheels then you have to do either
1) travel agents + regular v-brakes
2) "mini" v-brakes
3) cantilever brakes

I've tried #2 and #3 and been very unhappy with the results. #2 isn't so bad in back, but in the front the wheel drags on the bottom part of the brake. I've tried filing it down but it still drags.

the other possibility is to use sidepull brakes with 451 rims, or maybe extra-extra-long calipers on 406 rims.

Originally Posted by idc
I think the cabling from a v-brake is the same as a mech disc brake so a new fork and wheel should do it.



I don't want bar end shifters though. I was thinking something like Tiagra or 105.
mtalinm is offline  
Old 01-04-12, 10:55 PM
  #2935  
GN BIKN
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 255

Bikes: 1990ish MTB converted to 'cross, custom Vulture 29"er, Swift 2-speed Automatix folder, Madsen cargo bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bendembroski
Bar end shifters & v-brake levers will work with no problems. It's what I did when I used bullhorns on my Swift. Waaaay simpler than disc conversion.
That's what I'm doing on my Swift: bar-end shifters and V-brake oriented road levers on drop bars. Works great. For levers I'm using the Dia-Compe 287-V; Cane Creek and Tektro also make V-specific (long-pull) road levers.

I wouldn't mind going disc, but it isn't a simple conversion. Too bad, since Avid road discs work fantastically well with conventional (short-pull) road levers.

Fortunately I'm not finding a disc brake necessary so far, even for wet Oregon commuting. This especially surprises me because the dry braking, while adequate, is not awesome. But at least for the riding I've done so far, the performance hasn't seemed to degrade very much in the wet, unlike on my past 700c bikes. So it's been still adequate even in steady rain. That's with the stock front cable and crummy Promax brake, which upgrading would improve it a lot. The rear brake was NOT adequate in stock form (even when dry), and I have upgraded it with an Avid Single Digit 7 brake and Jagwire Racer cables, very carefully prepped. Though still just adequate, that's a big upgrade from inadequate.

Originally Posted by mtalinm
I'd be happy with a disc brake in front. Is there more to it than a new fork and a new front wheel? I hardly use the back brake anyway
Assuming the cable pull of your levers is matched to your brake (long-pull V-brake lever with most disc calipers, short-pull road or canti levers with Avid Road Discs), then ... well, it should be as simple as that, but ...

The problem is that getting a disc fork for a Swift is not simple. It's an unusual fork with a steerer that starts at 1 1/8" and then tapers to 1" above the top of the headset so that the 1" ID Swift riser can clamp onto it. Your fork options, near as I can tell, are:
  • Have HPM/CAT in Eugene build you one (See link above - they are NOT merely a "bike shop" but an outlet for the Swift's co-designer). Price unknown, theoretically available but I haven't heard of anyone ordering one. This is probably the only option that wouldn't require you to also buy a new headset.
  • Get a disc fork with a 1" steerer and use a reduction headset. IIRC Hostelshoppe sells one but the rake may throw the handling off a bit.
  • Get a disc fork with a 1 1/8" steerer and buy a new 1 1/8" ID stem riser. I've searched and haven't found a 1 1/8" disc fork with the proper rake and A-C length. Most of the ones I did find were mod trials forks that were way too long.
  • Have someone weld disc tabs onto a Swift fork. This has been animatedly discussed previously in this thread. There are varying opinions, but mine is that I wouldn't risk my dental work (or worse) to a fork modded in this way. A fork failure is one of the most dangerous mechanical problems you can have on a bike.
  • Have a custom fork made. I've considered having WaltWorks make me one. Expensive (currently $275, or $325 for non-black) but Walt should be able to build you anything. I'd probably just have me build one with a 1 1/8" steerer and buy a matching riser.

Last edited by GlowBoy; 01-04-12 at 11:19 PM.
GlowBoy is offline  
Old 01-05-12, 04:38 AM
  #2936  
My legs hurt
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Farther behind you than I'd like to be
Posts: 683

Bikes: Vaya, Brompton, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, Cresswell Fold-it, '81 Trek 610

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I'll just toss one more option out there:

A drum brake. I don't know what the weight penalty would be compared to a disc conversion, but they pull the same amount of cable as road levers. They stop well, and a new wheel much simpler solution than trying to get a disc fitted.

I used drums on my Swift and was extremely happy with them. They stopped fine (on par with a good set of v-brakes IMHO), weren't affected by weather, needed no maintenance, and I didn't have to worry about the rotor getting bashed while the bike was folded and in transit.

It doesn't really jive with the 'high prefomance' feel you are looking for, but that's probably a matter of aesthetics more than function..
bendembroski is offline  
Old 01-06-12, 01:26 PM
  #2937  
Senior Member
 
law4jba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: South shore of Boston
Posts: 101
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bendembroski
I'll just toss one more option out there:

A drum brake. I don't know what the weight penalty would be compared to a disc conversion, but they pull the same amount of cable as road levers. They stop well, and a new wheel much simpler solution than trying to get a disc fitted.

I used drums on my Swift and was extremely happy with them. They stopped fine (on par with a good set of v-brakes IMHO), weren't affected by weather, needed no maintenance, and I didn't have to worry about the rotor getting bashed while the bike was folded and in transit.

It doesn't really jive with the 'high prefomance' feel you are looking for, but that's probably a matter of aesthetics more than function..

How did you mount the front drum to the swift fork? I've been debating putting a SA dynamo/drum hub on the front of my swift but have been unable to figure out the reaction arm mount.
law4jba is offline  
Old 01-06-12, 01:41 PM
  #2938  
My legs hurt
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Farther behind you than I'd like to be
Posts: 683

Bikes: Vaya, Brompton, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, Cresswell Fold-it, '81 Trek 610

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Jubilee clip. No problems.
bendembroski is offline  
Old 01-06-12, 02:12 PM
  #2939  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 8

Bikes: Dahon Speed D7

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I bought a Swift on ebay hoping to enjoy it when I came back from a November vacation. Unfortunately it came in two packages, the second package never came with the front wheel

Does anyone have any recommendations on front wheels? The standard front wheel on the Xootr site is temporarily out of stock. I know most people have their own wheels built for weight + performance reasons, but I am just looking for a quick fix.

Thanks!
khuong is offline  
Old 01-06-12, 07:44 PM
  #2940  
Senior Member
 
badmother's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,720
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by law4jba
How did you mount the front drum to the swift fork? I've been debating putting a SA dynamo/drum hub on the front of my swift but have been unable to figure out the reaction arm mount.
Depending on what drumbrake and what size tube in the fork you should be looking for something like this:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...702-prod19292/

Some more to choose from but there could be more out there: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...r_pg1/#page=10
badmother is offline  
Old 01-07-12, 05:07 AM
  #2941  
Senior Member
 
badmother's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,720
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by khuong
I bought a Swift on ebay hoping to enjoy it when I came back from a November vacation. Unfortunately it came in two packages, the second package never came with the front wheel

Does anyone have any recommendations on front wheels? The standard front wheel on the Xootr site is temporarily out of stock. I know most people have their own wheels built for weight + performance reasons, but I am just looking for a quick fix.

Thanks!
If you want answers from us who are not Swift owners you must tell us the spacing of the hub, is it a wide or narrow folder hub?

Maybe you could get a Dahon wheel from Thor since you are in the US?

https://www.thorusa.com/accessories/wheels.htm

Edit: Also look around. If it is for just a few weeks maybe there is a 20" childs bike (that is not being used by a child of course) you could get hold of and use the front wheel?

I had problems with my 20" folder on a biketour this summer, started popping spokes. I found a 20" childs bike by the dumpster at the camping site and managed to use that wheel approx one week until I got home and could fix it permanentely. This really was an eye opener on the fact tat standard wheels (spoke lenght, spoke count and so on) and standard gear solutions (shifter) can be really important.

If you need to buy something at full price to solve your problem maybe buy a wheel with a dynohub? Not the cheapest but you get something that many would find wery useful. Can be used for lights and for charging a cellphone.

Last edited by badmother; 01-07-12 at 05:39 AM.
badmother is offline  
Old 01-09-12, 12:40 AM
  #2942  
Idiot Extraordinaire
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by mtalinm
I put an avid shorty ultimate on front and it just wouldn't grab enough for my liking.
Haven't posted in a while.... I run Tektro Oryx front and back with Sora brifters, and I find the stopping power to be just fine. It may be a tuning issue, but those canti's work better than the 720s on my cross bike.

Funny thing with all this talk about drop conversions is that I'm planning on reverting my conversion. The Swift is a brilliant bike, but I simply don't ride it enough. To sum it up, I'm just afraid to lock it up anywhere. Every time I do, I think someone would have quick released the entire cockpit and walked off with half the bike. I find my anxiety level to be much lower if I just lock up one of my lower profile, "normal" bikes.

I hate to part with it, so I'm converting it back to flat bars (well sort of, I'll be using Euro touring bars). This will at least allow me to justify having it in the garage as a very adjustable guest bike.
sqynt is offline  
Old 01-09-12, 02:58 PM
  #2943  
GN BIKN
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 255

Bikes: 1990ish MTB converted to 'cross, custom Vulture 29"er, Swift 2-speed Automatix folder, Madsen cargo bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Good point on the drum brakes, which are designed to work with short-pull road/canti levers. I may consider a rear drum if I ever get tired of bar-end shifters and decide I want to go back to STI. Fortunately Sturmey-Archer now makes a cassette hub with a rear drum brake.
GlowBoy is offline  
Old 01-12-12, 10:49 PM
  #2944  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Go to page 78 and look for my post from a few years ago. We had a quite extensive discussion on disc brakes and disc brake forks for the Swift.
dyamamoto is offline  
Old 01-16-12, 09:04 PM
  #2945  
Junior Member
 
NamSF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by red5un

been lurking on this thread for months now and finally built up my own custom swift. after riding a birdy for the past 9 years i wanted something simpler with 406 wheels. kinda went crazy making a super light (super as in not bank breaking ultra) single speed swift. still considering making it into a fixie, but frankly, i love coasting.

so i picked up the frame personally from peter in Brooklyn on a business trip. that man is a saint. aluminum frame custom painted white with suguino cranks and single speed conversion kit. the fork is the Trigon carbon fork that kaito used on his swift. got it from performer.com.tw and they powder coated it white for free. the first one actually got crushed in the mail and cracked. george and nellie from performer sent me a new one right away, again a pair of saints. picked up the pair of kinetix wheels and white kojaks from dahon spares. they are incredibly light. the 74mm to 100mm axle nuts are from speedmatrix depot. the stem, guidonnet lever and cabling is from velo orange. nitto rb-21's, white brooks-esque saddle, titanium QR skewers, crazy light kcnc seatpost and white tektro 556's are all trawled from the ebay. funny thing about the front brake, it was about 2mm too short on one side and i thought i could get away with it. well, i didn't and popped the front tube and tore out the side wall of the front tire. the guys at my local (urbane cyclist in Toronto) fixed me up with a little hand milled front brake extender that dropped it down by a cm. they also dug up an orange stelvio tire that looks pretty damn sharp. finally the pedals are from fyxation and a set of straps are on the way.

as a final touch peter told me that tradition is you can only put on the swift folder label after your first ride. decided instead of just putting on the decal horizontally i'd wrap it around the top tube on an angle. has a nice swiss design touch to it.

now the only problem i have is that there isn't much more i can mess with the bike. had a really good time building this one up, guess i'll just have to ride it.

or get another.

oh forgot to mention, it weighs just under 17lbs.
To red5un and Kaito

I was planning on using the same Trigon fork that you guys have on your Swift. If you could help, please tell me how you both got it to work.

-Did you guys have a long spacer made to go over the steerer tube?
-How did you pre-load the headset?
-Did you use a 1-1/8 standard threadless headset or was it integrated (I can't tell by the pics)?

Thanks a bunch!
NamSF is offline  
Old 01-17-12, 02:05 PM
  #2946  
Junior Member
 
NamSF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Nevermind, I figured it out via Sheldon Brown's seat collar technique.

I just picked up a Xootr on Craigslist for a really good deal and can't wait to get this project rolling.
Anyway, Anyone have luck on finding a lighter replacement for the Xootr seatpost (34 mm IIRC?) Thanks
NamSF is offline  
Old 01-17-12, 02:07 PM
  #2947  
Junior Member
 
NamSF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Nevermind, I figured it out via Sheldon Brown's seat collar technique.

I just picked up a Xootr on Craigslist for a really good deal and can't wait to get this project rolling.
Anyway, Anyone have luck on finding a lighter replacement for the Xootr seatpost (34 mm IIRC?) Thanks
NamSF is offline  
Old 01-17-12, 03:58 PM
  #2948  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Rafael, California
Posts: 2,097
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by NamSF
Nevermind, I figured it out via Sheldon Brown's seat collar technique.

I just picked up a Xootr on Craigslist for a really good deal and can't wait to get this project rolling.
Anyway, Anyone have luck on finding a lighter replacement for the Xootr seatpost (34 mm IIRC?) Thanks
You can run the Kore 34mm post from Dahon.. those are pretty light in comparison to the stock post.. I ran a carbon Dahon XX post on my Xootr, but really wouldn't recommend a carbon post as the integrity of the Xootr frame relies so heavily on the seatpost and its two seatpost clamps.
BruceMetras is offline  
Old 01-17-12, 06:32 PM
  #2949  
jur
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Albany, WA
Posts: 7,393
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 321 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by BruceMetras
You can run the Kore 34mm post from Dahon.. those are pretty light in comparison to the stock post.. I ran a carbon Dahon XX post on my Xootr, but really wouldn't recommend a carbon post as the integrity of the Xootr frame relies so heavily on the seatpost and its two seatpost clamps.
I also use a carbon post but have to agree with your recommendation not to use it. I have been using mine for years now; I have to use Ritchey friction grease to prevent slippage and not to over-tighten the seatpost clamps.

jur is offline  
Old 01-17-12, 08:39 PM
  #2950  
Junior Member
 
NamSF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BruceMetras
You can run the Kore 34mm post from Dahon.. those are pretty light in comparison to the stock post.. I ran a carbon Dahon XX post on my Xootr, but really wouldn't recommend a carbon post as the integrity of the Xootr frame relies so heavily on the seatpost and its two seatpost clamps.
Thanks Bruce for the reply!

I've owned 700c wheeled bikes in the past, and this will be my first 20"er. I was thinking about building a light fixed gear commuter. Sorry for all the questions, but has anyone on the board built rear wheels with skipped spokes, i.e. 36h w/ 18 spokes?

like this one...https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2004/walter.htm
(was thinking of a similar setup, 36h surly x aeroheat)

I was worried about spoke breakage and truing, although I'm 150lbs wet. I wouldn't normally build something with such little spokes, but 406 wheels tend to be stronger than 700c wheels right? Also, best lacing for this set up? Thanks!
NamSF is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.