bendembrowski - when you installed the BA on the rear, did you have to slide the wheel toward the rear of the dropout? The Xootr website says this might be necessary, but it makes me nervous as keeping the wheel straight could be an issue. I don't imagine that play would be much of a worry with a horizontal dropout, but I do worry about getting off-center...especially when changing a flat on the road.

I did, and it was still a tight fit. I just visualized getting the wheel centred between the stays and never had any problems. Maybe added 30 seconds to the remounting process.

I would think that something like Surly's tugnuts would do the trick, but I never bothered.

thanks. strangely enough my wheel doesn't look centered when it is pushed all the way into the dropout, so maybe it will fit is I just shim the one dropout a bit.

the bike sure looks rad with the big tires!

dream commuter build is finally done
 

http://www.sugarsync.com/piv/D6850580_650_861569520

Finally finished my dream commuter Swift this afternoon.

Had previously liked my drop-bar Swift with 451 tires, but grew weary of limited tire selection and poor braking in the rain. So I had Harris Cyclery build me a 406 wheelset using Sun Rhyno Lite rims (I'm told they are used for BMX stunts, so maybe they can stand up to Boston potholes) and a Sturmey-Archer drum brake in front. I'm running Big Apples for now but keeping my Marathons and Marathon Winters around.

Also swapped the Brooks saddle for a Specialized Romin. Love that saddle. Last big upgrade was a Thudbuster seat post. Between the Big Apples taking care of minor bumps and the Thudbuster handling the big stuff, the ride might be even better than my CF road bike.

Thanks to the many of you for your suggestions these past few months. The brake, tires, and seatpost were direct results of posts on here.

re: dream commuter
 

Your Swift looks great. Will you be folding it much in this configuration?

thanks...I don't fold it much as it is - most days I ride both ways. but sometimes I will come home on the commuter rail instead, and in that case I have to fold it. I just pull out the seatpost and swing the stays under - that's all they require around here. but you are right, with the drop bars it doesn't really fold up as thin as the standard config. (I have one of those, too)

How are you finding the drum brake?

How are you finding the drum brake?

pleasantly surprised. I had a drum brake on a trek Soho which was awful and gave me trepidation about trying one here, but Harris cyclery assured me out would have plenty of stopping power even for a fattie like me because the wheel is smaller. I suggested we do the more powerful 90mm drum brake (also from Sturmey Archer) but they rolled their eyes and said I would be fine with the 70mm. so far I don't have any reason to say they were wrong. it pulls strong.

only disappointment is that the hub dies not accept a quick release skewer, sui I need to carry a cone wrench with me to remove the wheel. no big deal though, and less theft-susceptible

OK, now I'm thinking about drum brakes after all.

Today, after just 7 months and 965 miles ... BLAMM! The rear wheel exploded. I knew the brake track was pretty well worn, but as I now realize the stock rims have no warning stripe to let you know when you're pushing it. I was pulling my son on our trailerbike (Burley Piccolo) when it went. Fortunately it was the REAR wheel, and we just skidded safely to a stop. Also fortunately, we were just a couple blocks from a bus line and were able to get home without much difficulty.

Although I was sure when I got this bike that I would need hub brakes due to Portland's rainy weather, I've been pleasantly surprised how well the rim brakes have worked. So I had been thinking that since replacement wheels are really cheap ($70 from Xootr), big deal if I have to get a new one every year or two?

Yeah, but having to replace both rims (my front is pretty well worn too, though not as bad as the rear) once or possibly TWICE a year is going to add up. Unfortunately my riding -- lots of gritty, wet conditions, lots of stop-and-go, lots of hills requiring sometimes heavy braking -- is creating a LOT of rim wear. Not much I can do to change that.

So here I am considering a hub brake. I'm especially concerned about the potential for having a front rim fail in use which, per Murphy's Law, would occur in the middle of my regular 30-35mph descent out of the West Hills. I think for now I'll just get another cheap wheel for the back, but convert to a drum brake in front. Fortunately that won't be too expensive.

I would definitely think about it. You'll need to have a new wheel built, which isn't cheap, but I think it would last a very long time. Also, living in fear of your wheel exploding is probably a reasonable tradeoff!

I'd suggest building a wheel with the hub brake in front, and then using that for most of your braking. Then you could stick with a cheapo wheel in the back, which isn't going to explode if you don't use it as much. Or you could get drums front and back.

The nice thing about drums is that you don't need to weld a disc-brake tab onto the fork and frame. That is what made the decision for me.

Do keep in mind that the sturmey-archer brake at least works with short throw levers like you will see on drop bars. So if you have a flat bar with MTB brake levers, it may be too much pull. Your LBS can tell you for sure.

Good luck and let us know how it works out!

Looks like I can do a drum brake front wheel for a bit over $150, basically the cost of a couple of regular wheels. Might pay for itself pretty fast.

I'm already running drop bars, albeit with long-throw levers designed for V-brakes, but I have a short-throw lever I would swap in. So pretty much the only expense would be the wheel itself. Looks like the net weight gain will be about 500g (maybe less since the stock wheel is pretty beefy), which I can live with.

As you suggested I'd keep using a rim brake in back. A lot less dangerous when a rim blows out if it's back, and I could use the rear brake less than I have been. I've probably been favoring the rear a bit too much because it works so well. When I bought the bike last fall I found the cheapo rear stock brake pretty much useless, and upgraded it to a high performance unit. The front cheapo stock brake worked decently enough so I didn't upgrade it -- leaving me with better braking in back, and maybe that's why the rear wore out first. (Although the front doesn't have a whole lot of life left in it either).

cool. yeah if you don't go for the super-strong rims like I did, you should be able to shave a lot off of the price. the stock rim is not light, so it's probably not a huge weight gain. and the braking power in rain is well worth it imho!

Hi every one, I'v been following this forum for a while now, its been really helpful and interesting seeing what every ones doing with there swift folders

I have just finished my dream bike and thought I would show it to you. I know it won't be to most of your tastes but I really enjoy riding it and wanted to show you how the swift looked as a BMX.

Have a look here http://swiftbike.zapd.net

The reason I'v set it up like this is because I love the feel of riding BMX, I feel more agile with a lower saddle and low frame and like being able to get of the seat and "bomb about" throwing the bike between my legs :) but was really wanting a folder, something I could put in the boot of my panda and take anywhere.
I tried a lot of folders but didn't get on with any of them, then I came across the swift bike on the net and really liked the sound of the 20" wheels and stiff frame so had one shipped to the uk.

I'v stripped a lot of the bike and had a SRAM "automatix" 2 speed automatic hub with coaster brake fitted which is brilliant but was quite a headache having to strip it several times to adjust the spring to get the gear to change at the right speed.
I fitted the 2" big apples, cut down the Riser and seat post, fitted bmx bars with the short stem upside down which seemed to feel best

The bike works and feels great, I recently completed a Ride from brighton to Oxford street in london about 50miles with no problems, just had to lift the seat up a bit :) so am still able to use it for bigger rides

To anyone who fancys a bit of bmx fun with ability to fold I would deffently recommend swift.

I like it, it is definitely not your typical Swift, but it does well as a BMX.

At first glance it just looks like a BMX with a cool frame. Most people on the street would not guess it folds. Cheers.

Good job!!

Thanks a lot!

Xootr have just put a picture up on there site :)

Ever take it off some sweet jumps?

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Nice build!

I wouldent be aiming for any ramps any time soon :) but it feels sturdy enough to jump up and down curbs that's all I need to do. Maybe a small flight of stairs if I'm feeling adventurous!

[QUOTE=ginojames;14109004]Hi every one, I'v been following this forum for a while now, its been really helpful and interesting seeing what every ones doing with there swift folders

I have just finished my dream bike and thought I would show it to you. I know it won't be to most of your tastes but I really enjoy riding it and wanted to show you how the swift looked as a BMX.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Very cool! Can you give us more of a parts list? I'm curious about chainline, mostly. What length bottom bracket, what cranks, cog, etc.

Thanks much,

Andy

Question About Proper Size of Xootr Swift to Purchase
 

I am considering purchasing a Swift, based in large part on this forum. The Xootr chart suggests that I should order an XL (I am 6'3", with long arms and legs). Any suggestions as to whether I should go with the XL, or an XXL, instead, and why? Thanks for your help.

Hi Andy, the front sprocket and crank is the standard one that comes with the single speed swift, theres a 16 tooth sprocket at the back on the automatix,
Spacing wise there's a 5mm washer then the slotted *washer either side of hub.
The chain tugs are standard bmx tugs nothing special.
The bracket that's holding the coaster brake arm is a bit of an old bike light bracket I had laying around it seems to do the job fine.*
The bars are pro-lite feather bars that iv cut down about an inch of either side,
When I cut down the riser I cut it as low as possible while leaving enough space for the quick release to still work and get the stem on,

I'll take some more photos of the rear dropouts and spacing and add them to here: http://swiftbike.zapd.net/

Like I said the hardest bit was setting up the SRAM automatix to shift at the right speed as its made for bigger wheels. I do have some photos of the hub when I dismantled it just so I new how to put it back together again if any ones interested?*

Thanks, Gino.

I'm finding myself intrigued by these bikes. I was close to buying a Tern P9, but now I'm reconsidering. I can only keep one bike in the city for commuting and longer training rides, and I like the purported ride quality. The obvious advantage of the Tern is the fold though, so my question is, just how small(big) is the Swift when folded? I have a very small apartment, and I want minimize the chance of getting chain grease all over the place if I brush up against it. And is it as totable as described on the Web site? Could I really bring that on a train? Tnx

I pack my Swift in a 31" Oyster. Doesn't fold as fast as a Mu, but then it rides ALOT better, not squirrelly. Haven't ridden the Tern, so I can't compare.
For grease control, buy a chain snake (slit tube).