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Originally Posted by jur
(Post 19065579)
get the chain guard as close as possible to the chain. Are there any spacers that you could remove?
Not really. The bash ring is slightly concave when looking at the bike from the right, so I might be able to flip it over so that it curves towards the chain. Another option might be to glue or bolt something to the inside of the bash ring to fill up the space between it and the chain. And failing that, maybe another bash ring would sort the problem. My past experience has been that bikes become very expensive once I start changing components because the parts are far more expensive when bought as single items, and there is usually a snowball effect where one change leads to another. My question would be, why does my Swift drop its chain when others don't? What could be the difference? And was it like this from the factory, or has something changed? Update: I took off the bash ring and bashed it with a mallet on a marble slab, then put it back in the original position. The bash ring now sits about 3mm from the chain, so hopefully there is no room for the chain to fall off. I shouldn't be needing to modify a stock bike like this, so I still wonder whether something else was wrong? The inside of the bashring was quite gnarled, which put me off reversing it, and it suggests the chain had fallen off a lot. |
Originally Posted by Pallas
(Post 19065644)
A narrow/wide chain ring would also mostly eliminate chain drop. Wolf Tooth Components make one in 52T - 130 BCD.
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Originally Posted by PebbledChin
(Post 19065753)
Not really. The bash ring is slightly concave when looking at the bike from the right, so I might be able to flip it over so that it curves towards the chain. Another option might be to glue or bolt something to the inside of the bash ring to fill up the space between it and the chain. And failing that, maybe another bash ring would sort the problem.
My past experience has been that bikes become very expensive once I start changing components because the parts are far more expensive when bought as single items, and there is usually a snowball effect where one change leads to another. My question would be, why does my Swift drop its chain when others don't? What could be the difference? And was it like this from the factory, or has something changed? Update: I took off the bash ring and bashed it with a mallet on a marble slab, then put it back in the original position. The bash ring now sits about 3mm from the chain, so hopefully there is no room for the chain to fall off. I shouldn't be needing to modify a stock bike like this, so I still wonder whether something else was wrong? The inside of the bashring was quite gnarled, which put me off reversing it, and it suggests the chain had fallen off a lot. I wrote an entry in the FAQ on chain drop. http://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bi...ead-first.html |
Originally Posted by jur
(Post 19066256)
I wrote an entry in the FAQ on chain drop.
http://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bi...ead-first.html |
Might a chain guide or Tern Mainstay help with the problem? I have the chain guide on my Dahon Speed P8, and it works perfectly fine.
Special Parts Dahon Tern and others |
Originally Posted by tds101
(Post 19066505)
Might a chain guide or Tern Mainstay help with the problem?
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I had a Xootr Swift, but I opted for an IGH. I'm not a derailleur fan. This is a prime example of why I gravitate towards them.
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I had a similar problem with my bike last year. When I upgraded to a 10-speed RD (and with no bash guard on the front), I would drop the chain on the outside about 1-2 a week. A local mechanic thought the chain might be too long, so we experimented by moving the axle back a bit to simulate removing two links. This seemed to work, so he permanently removed them. I've only dropped the chain twice since then, when I think I was being too aggressive in upshifts.
I've seen some questions about narrow-wide chainrings and clutched RDs. When SRAM released their 1x11 equipment (Apex, Rival and Force) last year or the year before, a bunch of magazines published info on why it works. But, it does get expensive pretty fast to go down that route. |
Originally Posted by PebbledChin
(Post 19066393)
I did read your FAQ a day or two ago. If you are convinced that a new chain would help, then I shall invest a few pounds, but I thought that chains for derailleur gears were flexy from the outset, else the derailleurs wouldn't be able to do their job? The other aspect is that the Swift is pretty rigid, so I don't know why it should have the propensity to drop its chain like other folders, except for having 20" wheels. So do all small-wheeled bikes (with short chain stays) suffer from chain drop because of the increased angle of the chain when cross-geared?
I made a light guard that bolted to the seat tube before going with a front derailer. |
Originally Posted by jur
(Post 19067282)
I made a light guard that bolted to the seat tube before going with a front derailer.
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Originally Posted by PebbledChin
(Post 19067348)
Thank you for info. Do you know whether the Tern Mainstay chain guide would fit an aluminium Swift, by any chance? They are reasonably priced. Do you have a photo of your homemade guide?
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...5.jpg~original This is the only image I have of this long - abandoned guide. It was a tube for the chain fastened to a aluminium bracket made from a strip of aluminium. A complete kludge but it worked. A chain guard while heavier will work better. Is yours the original Swift guide? |
The Tern Mainstay is very close to what I fashioned. It may be best to start with that and see if it csn be made to work.
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Originally Posted by jur
(Post 19067445)
The Tern Mainstay is very close to what I fashioned. It may be best to start with that and see if it csn be made to work.
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Originally Posted by PebbledChin
(Post 19064859)
Amazing! That saves loads of trig for 5-bolt rings.
I've now got my hands on a clean, little-used Xootr Swift. I've never had a newish bike before now, and I was quite bowled over by how lovely the Swift looked with its sparkly polished aluminium fittings. I decided to ride it around for a while in its original configuration, but I've now had quite a few chain drops from the front ring. I can replicate the occurrence very easily with the bike on its back, and putting the chain onto the 11T sprocket with a bit of enthusiasm. Rapid-fire style triggers might slow the change down, but the grip shift that the Swift comes with almost encourages changing several gear steps at a time. The chain falls to the outside, so it has always been retained between the chainring and the bash guard, but in my view, a chain dropping bike is dangerous because it is possible to lose drive in the middle of a roundabout, or in a middle lane, or half way across a cross-road. I've tried to cure it, but I'm left baffled. I wound up the b-screw tension, but it has not improved the situation. I might just carry on with my plan to convert it to a Nuvinci, but I now think it might be a bit of a shame with the Swift being such a light and fast bike, but I can't think what else to do. Maybe sandwiching the bash ring between the chainring and the spider is possible? A but ugly though. On another topic, where is a rear battery-powered light best positioned? The seat post is not a good place for multiple reasons. Mounting a Front derailleur will also work. You will want to be able to adjust it as you go up and down with the rear shifter so I would not go with an indexed lever. |
I would also look at the teeth on the Crank---If one or a couple of them are a bent a little this will add to your problem.
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Originally Posted by tds101
(Post 19066746)
I had a Xootr Swift, but I opted for an IGH. I'm not a derailleur fan. This is a prime example of why I gravitate towards them.
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Originally Posted by Rick Imby
(Post 19068785)
I have a Dahon with Infernal Geared Hub and just bought a Swift as I have a huge dislike of IGH. It's all good though.
My opinion of Sturmey-Archer is somewhat mixed. I had a 5 speed IGH from them, and when it worked, it worked smooth as silk. The spacing between the gears? Totally strange,...it was either slight difference, or massive jump. I hear the Sturmey-Archer 8 speed is much better. But, as they say, to each their own. Oh, btw, the bike I had the NuVinci hub on was a Xootr Swift, and I totally regret selling the bike. I should have just swapped out the rear hub. The Xootr Swift is SMOKIN!!! |
Jur,
I like that chain guide! Cool idea, a little tube. |
This has probably been covered somewhere in this thread, but I'm curious how people deal with the loose bar/stem when folding a Swift down. It seems to me to pack it down that small to put in a car, it would bang against the frame and scratch everything up.
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I have cardboard in my trunk. actually a couple of collapsed boxs. Makes it easy to pad between and on top.
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Originally Posted by Rick Imby
(Post 19074461)
I have cardboard in my trunk. actually a couple of collapsed boxs. Makes it easy to pad between and on top.
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Originally Posted by Rick Imby
(Post 19068752)
I would look into a new chain and cassette. As chains get old they get sloppy laterally as well as get a little longer
Another issue has arisen: I have discovered several circumferential notches in the seat post that line up with the seat tube joint. Is this common? Is it caused by improper tightening of the QRs? I noticed that my hands were stained grey after touching the bike. I now realise that this was coming off the seatpin, so either some strange moly or graphite lube has been used by the previous owner or (gulp) there is some serious wear has been taking place inside the seat tube. Are new seat pins readily available? I can't quite read the makers stamp. It is two letters that looks like "nh". I measure it as being 34.0mm OD, but I can't find any that diameter. |
Originally Posted by PebbledChin
(Post 19078530)
In a belt and braces approach, I've put on a new chain & 11-34 cassette (old chain only had 0.4% elongation, though) and the cycling experience is much better. I do think most of it is down to my moving the bashring closer to the chainring, however.
Another issue has arisen: I have discovered several circumferential notches in the seat post that line up with the seat tube joint. Is this common? Is it caused by improper tightening of the QRs? I noticed that my hands were stained grey after touching the bike. I now realise that this was coming off the seatpin, so either some strange moly or graphite lube has been used by the previous owner or (gulp) there is some serious wear has been taking place inside the seat tube. Are new seat pins readily available? I can't quite read the makers stamp. It is two letters that looks like "nh". I measure it as being 34.0mm OD, but I can't find any that diameter. I am not experienced in the dings on the Swift post but I would be very very attentive to make sure they have not turn into cracks. My guess is the dings come more from the clamps NOT being tight. It is common to put a coat of lube on any seatpost to keep it from rusting to the frame---I know this happens a lot with aluminum post/ cromoly frames. Not sure about aluminum/aluminum post frame combos. Standard parts to the rescue again. Most any LBS will probably have seat QRs that will work properly with your swift. |
Originally Posted by jur
(Post 19065579)
The only way to cure chain drop is to get the chain guard as close as possible to the chain. Are there any spacers that you could remove?
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Originally Posted by Rick Imby
(Post 19078773)
In the spirit of making as many parts industry standard as possible the Swift works with a 34.0 or 33.9 seatpost.
Apparently, a good test of a seat pin is to loosen the QRs and clamps. A well-fitting pin shouldn't fall under gravity! It's Sod's law I can't find links to any of these posts or websites now I am looking for them! |
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