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I was wondering that same thing.
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Originally Posted by 12boy
(Post 19206939)
Jur, do you still have an extra TI frame for sale?
There is currently a group buy under way; it's beena few weeks since I heard anything. It is led by an acquaintance of Peter Reich, with Peter also bring a few buyers to the group. Not sure what the current status is. Anybody interested, and I will forward the details. |
Originally Posted by jur
(Post 19208268)
No I sold that one.
There is currently a group buy under way; it's beena few weeks since I heard anything. It is led by an acquaintance of Peter Reich, with Peter also bring a few buyers to the group. Not sure what the current status is. Anybody interested, and I will forward the details. |
There is a steel framed Swift on U.K. eBay, a very rare occurrence, I might have a go myself :-
Swift Folder the Original Xootr Folding Bike | eBay |
Originally Posted by Diode100
(Post 19211780)
There is a steel framed Swift on U.K. eBay, a very rare occurrence, I might have a go myself :-
Swift Folder the Original Xootr Folding Bike | eBay |
I would also. Looks very nice.
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Originally Posted by Diode100
(Post 19211780)
There is a steel framed Swift on U.K. eBay, a very rare occurrence, I might have a go myself :-
Swift Folder the Original Xootr Folding Bike | eBay |
Xootr Bikes Discontinued?
http://www.xootr.com/swift-folding-bicycles.html
Happened to look at the xootr site and it looks like the bikes are going to be discontinued. It took me a second to even find the bike page, (under service). Looks like the current focus is on scooters. |
Here's a steel one in the SF Bay Area, CA.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/5882464073.html |
Originally Posted by Joe Remi
(Post 19212167)
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Originally Posted by jur
(Post 19212125)
Be aware that is not the steel one, it is aluminium.
Had a response from the seller, yes it is aluminium. So a Xootr rather than an original Swift it would seem. |
Yes, Peter Reich worked with Xootr in sourcing custom Swifts using Xootr frames, usually painted black, and having the words "Swift Folder" rather than the Xootr logo. I also got one of those to replace my cracked frame. The steel version has slimmer tubing and a curved fork.
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Discontinued...
I just bought the single speed version maybe a day or two before they apparently discontinued the bike. I received my bike the day after Thanksgiving...
I've emailed Xootr about what it means for the frame warranty as well as replacement parts going forward... The warranty and impressive record of customer support I've read about on forums was a huge part of why I chose to get the Swift so this is a bit of a disappointment. Will post about what their official response is when I get it. |
Originally Posted by iamdougsbike
(Post 19217267)
I just bought the single speed version maybe a day or two before they apparently discontinued the bike. I received my bike the day after Thanksgiving...
I've emailed Xootr about what it means for the frame warranty as well as replacement parts going forward... The warranty and impressive record of customer support I've read about on forums was a huge part of why I chose to get the Swift so this is a bit of a disappointment. Will post about what their official response is when I get it. |
Originally Posted by Joe Remi
(Post 19217319)
I can't imagine them abandoning the warranty just because they stopped production of that particular product. Xootr is still in business and presumably still has access to the Swift tooling. In fact, considering slow sales, they probably still have a good stash of frames around. I think you'll be ok for the next few years, at least.
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Originally Posted by Paul Braithwait
(Post 19217728)
I've been in touch with Xootr who have confirmed that they have a good supply of frames in stock.
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What's the best gearing for the Swift?
I purchased a single speed so that I could install the drivetrain I wanted instead of paying extra for bits I'd replace anyway.
I'm wondering what cassettes people have used on their Swifts to get an idea of what I should get. I was thinking of making it 1x10 but not sure if I should get a wide range 10s cassette like 11-40/42 or a narrower road cassette like an 11-36. Will the highest (easiest) gears on the wide range cassette be wasted due to the small 20" tires? |
1x10 with 11-36t is plenty unless you want to include very steep MTB type riding. I have a 60t ring up front and rarely use the 42t front ring unless I go steep MTB climbing.
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Originally Posted by iamdougsbike
(Post 19219388)
I purchased a single speed so that I could install the drivetrain I wanted instead of paying extra for bits I'd replace anyway.
I'm wondering what cassettes people have used on their Swifts to get an idea of what I should get. I was thinking of making it 1x10 but not sure if I should get a wide range 10s cassette like 11-40/42 or a narrower road cassette like an 11-36. Will the highest (easiest) gears on the wide range cassette be wasted due to the small 20" tires? With the stock tires and chainring, an 11-36 cassette would give you a bottom end of about 28 gear-inches, which is decently low. An issue with a 10-speed 11-42 cassette might be the wide gaps between some gears. I'm curious if anyone's installed one, though. I think they require a long cage derailleur, and I'd like to know how much ground clearance there is. With the medium cage I've got, I measured about 3.5" (with 451 wheels and 28 mm tires) with the derailleur at its lowest. |
OK, I've had my Swift for about a week now, and have taken it out a few times and done about 5 miles each time just to try it out... Maybe I'm just used to my Trek, but the Swift seems really slow to me.... Riding 5 miles feels like riding 20 on my normal bike...
Is it possible it's the stock tires? On the Trek without trying I can easily do 17 mph... on the Swift I managed to only do 11 mph... I'm lost on where to start... Maybe I should just inflate the tires more? Or should I look into tires that roll better? I'm pretty much always on bike trails near the ocean which are paved nicely, but a bit hilly... Does anyone have any suggestions on how to improve the ride? I'm stumped... |
Originally Posted by Daffyd
(Post 19225855)
OK, I've had my Swift for about a week now, and have taken it out a few times and done about 5 miles each time just to try it out... Maybe I'm just used to my Trek, but the Swift seems really slow to me.... Riding 5 miles feels like riding 20 on my normal bike...
Is it possible it's the stock tires? On the Trek without trying I can easily do 17 mph... on the Swift I managed to only do 11 mph... I'm lost on where to start... Maybe I should just inflate the tires more? Or should I look into tires that roll better? I'm pretty much always on bike trails near the ocean which are paved nicely, but a bit hilly... Does anyone have any suggestions on how to improve the ride? I'm stumped... What are the tyres, Kenda Kwest? These are actually not bad. Inflate to about 50-60psi. Then make sure your body setup on both bikes is as identical as you can get. Same saddle height, saddle fore-aft setting WRT bottom bracket spindle, and same handlebar reach and height. |
One of the first things I did was repack the wheels and headset and also removed the BB and greased those threads as well.the grease that came with it was skimpy and very light. So, make sure your wheels are spinning freely. I kept the 65 lb Kwests that came on the bike at 65 lbs. I also put bar ends on it to achieve a little less wind drag, give me additional hand positions, and give me something to pull on going up hills. I also put some SPDs on there so I could ride with SPD bike shoes.
I would try to make the bike fit as much like the Trek as I could, so if you were bent over more on the Trek, and upright on the Swift, that would slow you down, some. Likewise the wide soft saddle that came with the bike may not be as efficient as a narrow hard saddle. Having done those things my Swift is pretty close to one of my 700 C bikes and much faster than an unsuspended Cannondale mtn bike with knobby 2" tires. |
Originally Posted by jur
(Post 19225936)
Wow that is a huge difference. I would make sure both wheels rotate effortlessly, same with the cranks (chain off) and then rotate cranks backwards to check drivetrain drag with the chain on the middle cog. Then also rotate forwards with back wheel up to check for drag.
What are the tyres, Kenda Kwest? These are actually not bad. Inflate to about 50-60psi. Then make sure your body setup on both bikes is as identical as you can get. Same saddle height, saddle fore-aft setting WRT bottom bracket spindle, and same handlebar reach and height. |
Originally Posted by 12boy
(Post 19225937)
One of the first things I did was repack the wheels and headset and also removed the BB and greased those threads as well.the grease that came with it was skimpy and very light. So, make sure your wheels are spinning freely. I kept the 65 lb Kwests that came on the bike at 65 lbs. I also put bar ends on it to achieve a little less wind drag, give me additional hand positions, and give me something to pull on going up hills. I also put some SPDs on there so I could ride with SPD bike shoes.
I would try to make the bike fit as much like the Trek as I could, so if you were bent over more on the Trek, and upright on the Swift, that would slow you down, some. Likewise the wide soft saddle that came with the bike may not be as efficient as a narrow hard saddle. Having done those things my Swift is pretty close to one of my 700 C bikes and much faster than an unsuspended Cannondale mtn bike with knobby 2" tires. But might be time to learn how to repack wheels, etc... :eek: |
Does anyone have any photos of the "Carry Bag" that Xootr sells for the Swift?
The photos on the site are small and low resolution without any scale of reference like the bag being carried by a human being... |
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