S-A did, and I think still do (?), produce the 7 speed Sprinter hub...

Changed cable routing on Sturmey Archer XRF8 hub
 

Peter advized me to make some changes to the cable routing, so now the shift cable goes over the main hinge on the left (as before) and then goes over the top of both chainstays and on the outside right of the chain into the rear triangle and the hub attachment. Maybe kind of hard to explain, but I can take a picture if someone's really interested. The old routing had the cable going over the main hinge, then under the chainstays and inside the rear triangle to the hub. The new routing definitely has less sharp curves in it, but I had expected the effects on the shifting to be minimal. Actually, it was quite noticable. When upshifting (especially from 3 -> 4) there used to be a delay, but that has pretty much gone. Presumably that was due to friction where the cable was sharply bent before.

I've also been thinking about Wav's comments on the Sturmey shifter. I must admit that when I first unpacked the shifter it seemed very plasticky and cheap. However, it feels much more solid when installed and I quite like the shift feel and action. I felt the Nexus shifter on a bike in my local bikeshop the other day, and it felt very stiff by comparison (that could just be the way they set it up?) but I didn't ride the bike so don't know what it would be like in real use. I guess shifters are very much a personal thing.

Oh, my mistake. Their website no longer lists it.. I see Harris Cyclery still have the 7 speed Sprinter in stock though!

Well, I need a new saddle anyways.... I'll talk to the shop about the master link concept.


If I toured more than once or twice a year and in any rough environments, I'd have gone with a BF anyway. I dig the Swift quite a bit, but let's face it, it was not originally designed to pack. It's more of a happy accident that it (barely!) fits into a huge suitcase. ;)

Why would you need to re-index? I didn't have any issues taking off and replacing the derailleur, shifting works just fine after my test disassembly / reassembly, and with it off I can't imagine you'd have to do anything more than at worst tweak the barrell adjuster....

On my DT the SA shifter is much stiffer than the any of the Nexus I have (4 in total). The SA shifts positively (i.e. no missed shifts) but it takes more effort either stationary and far more effort to downshift while movie. Shimano took great pains to make sure the Nexus would shift well under load. So far nobody with an internal hub matches them in this area.

Having said that I am still impressed with the SA in many ways. IF I could get the shift quality of the Nexus with the gear steps of the SA, I’d be very interested in one on one of my bikes. The Nexus will easily downshift under load with no issues. You don’t need to backpedal (like some SAs) or let off the pedals a lot, you just click to the next gear and away you go. Another plus if is if you like mtb. bike style shifter (trigger) rather than twistgrip. The Nexus is also available with this style as well.

So Nexus 8spd (red label) is still my favorite internal hub because of its efficiency and great shift quality. It has as wide a range as everyone else and its 5th gear is the one I use the most and that is where it is most efficient. The downside for the SA is first gear is its 1:1 (most efficient) ratio. I make it point to setup my internal hubs so the majority of my riding will be in the 1:1 ratio. This isn’t possible on the SA.

Bac, "re-index" usually does mean tweak the barrel adjuster. Unusually rough handling (ever watch ramp workers load luggage... or I should say throw luggage) seems to bend the RD hanger to the point I need to reset the RD limit screws (can't think of another explanation of why this need arises). After traveling with the Swift and with my 700c Dean El Diente with S&S BTCs, I finally bought a Park RD adjustment tool to true up the hanger when the bikes in "are the hangar." [such word play, better than Jack Aubrey, but not up to Edmund Spenser]

Took delivery of an Aluminium 8 speed (SRAM) Xootr Swift a week ago, here in the UK, and am very impressed. I wanted a great riding bike that folded - not a folder you could ride and the Swift fills the bill.
So far I have fitted Ergon R2 bar ends, changed the saddle and pedals but that is all. I love the look and ride of the bike. I also own several "conventional" racing bikes which have now been made redundant because I connot keep off the Swift! The large diameter down tube has meant that the QR racks will not fit but I will be using a Carradice SQR seat pack which attaches to a bracket which clamps to the seat tube. I have checked and if I mount it just below the saddle the seat tube will still slide down when the bike is folded and hold the package together enough for me to put it in my car.

I have also found a "clip-on" bottle cage which has a quick release fitting. It is a KF Performance model made of tough plastic (or something similar) and the QR bracket can turn so that the bottle cage can fit to 'bars or stem riser. When fully unscrewed it also clamps to the seat tube (with a bit of a shove) and the QR lever secures it. I prefer to have the bottle on the seat tube and the cage can be quickly removed to fold the bike. Up front I have fitted a "T" bar to the riser and attached my 'bar bag to it. The "T" bar is a more rugged version of the Minoura gadget which clamps to the 'bars to accommodate lights. This one slides down the 1 1/8th riser and is clamped like a stem. It means the 'bar bag leaves the 'bars clear, does not interfere with the break levers and it keeps the centre of gravity low. Both items were sourced from www.sjscycles.com here in the UK. I am not sure how many Swifts are over here but I love the thing and am already planning to clear out my stable of other bikes. This little gem is perfect for my riding which is generally day rides in the nearby countryside. Being able to slip it into the back of my car will enable me to cycle in other locations. It is one great little machine!!

You can now outrun any Glaswegian Brommie or Merc, after spotting them half the distance.

I've found when fitting it to a Bike Friday seatpost (28.6mm) I have to slightly widen the metal clips which hold the plastic mount. No biggie, just tap the top with a hammer a few taps. I assume the Swift's seatpost is just as wide if not wider?


Depending on the seat (much worse if you're using a sprung Brooks saddle), you might want to test fit the whole SQR system with the bag first, as I've found that if you mount the plastic block too high, you can't install or remove the seat bag because it will collide with the seat.

Doh! :eek:

(Neither Aubrey nor Spenser, but "Homer." :D )

Homer Donut and Latin. There's a concept.

Swift has a 34mm seat post but Carradice supply large steel bands to fit 40mm.

Have used the SQR mount on various bikes and always have it right at the top of the seat tube without any problems of the bag being blocked by the saddle.

Paul - Congrats on the new ride. I am sure you will love your Swift as much as we do. It tends to make other bikes superfluous. If only it would fold a bit smaller. I'd even be interested in one with 16" wheels to (349).

Glad to know that the Carradice quick release will fit, as I have been thinking about carrying things..

Here is a picture of the rack I've put on the bike. First I got a beautiful Nitto M-12 rack, but sadly it didn't fit. Looked good though! Then at a fraction of the cost a Nashbar front rack. It seems decent quality, though painted aluminum doesn't look as nice as polished stainless. I must say I'm impressed with this rack - it looks well made, and all the mounting hardware is stainless steel - oh and locking nuts included. On sale, reduced from $15 to $10.. It attaches to the brake bosses and the hole in the fork crown.

I'm a little concerned about the rack mounting to the brake bosses, but I've never heard of this setup failing.. Fingers crossed! I'll be monitoring closely. Ideally, I would like mounting bosses on the frame, so that I could mount a front rack on the frame like a Moulton or a Brompton.

Since the center of gravity is so low with 20" wheels, the handling is fine. I've had almost 20lbs of shopping on, which was probably pushing it.. Looks like I can even make my Ortliebs fit too.

The reason I chose a front rack was mainly that it interferes very little with the fold. Some people have used seat post racks, but I find this a poor solution for everyday use. I don't want to have to remove a rack each time I fold, or carry the seatpost and rack each time I lock up.. As always, YMMV and if you have a solution that works for you that's great!

(You can see the Nitto that didn't fit at: http://yangmusa.blogspot.com/)

http://home.no/yangmusa/Swift/Swiftwithfrontrack.jpg

Say, has anyone used a chain guide on their Al-framed Swift? I am going NUTS with this chain falling off of the left-hand side of the chainring.

Chain guide at Nashbar

I keep meaning to post pics... maybe I will snap some while I'm out. My Swift spent its first train ride on a Caltrain luggage rack yesterday... it has proven its worth to me yet again.

If only off of the left side, that chain guide should work if it were available in 1 1/2" diameter.. I didn't see that size... I'm using a roller which has worked well..

Bruce

I hope this works! Photo's of my front 'bar bag attachment using a "T" bar which fits on 1 1/8" steerer tube. Attached to it is a Topeak bar bag bracket which has a neat, removable little gadget to which you can fix your cycle-computer. As I have plenty of room on the 'bars to fit a computer I cut a narrow (1/4") slot along the length of the Topeak attachment and found that my Blackburn mini-pump snapped in no bother at all!

Maybe take a few links out of the chain? That SRAM derailleur should be able to take up 35 links or so. With the single chainring it only has to deal with 17. Taking a few links out of the chain might improve the tension.

I'm on the Caltrain commute from 4th and King every day. I'll keep an eye out for you and your Swift. :)

Chain tug for fixed Swift?
 

I haven't felt a need for a chain tug on my steel fixie, but I'm wondering if aluminum dropouts make 'em a good idea, at least one on the drive side? What say you fixed Swift riders? Any particular brand recommended?

New Hub Swift-- impressions + questions on tuning in the fit
 

Peter just delivered my new Swift, and while I could use your suggestions on tweaks, overall I'm pretty amazed; all the good things said about the Swift hold, as well as a few others. I had initially wanted the powder coated black frame, but they weren’t in stock, so I instead got the silver aluminum, which looks really good. I’ll post pictures when I get a chance, but it’s probably nothing you haven’t seen before. And I think the fold, while big, is perfect for my purposes.

My bike differs from a stock bike in that it includes:
• Big apple tires
• Shimano red label hub
• Plastic mud guards
• Bar ends

The hub is wonderful. It’s smooth and quiet. Additionally, as a New York rider I really appreciate being able to shift while not moving. I highly recommend the hub!

I’m not so sure however, about the Big Apples. They are plush, but for my riding style probably not enough to warrant the extra weight. I ride like I’m on thin tires—I use ramps and avoid potholes— so while I’m not using the tires to their fullest, I still carry their extra weight. I think I might switch to Marathon slicks. Does anybody have thoughts?

The fit is currently too small for me—I’m almost 6’1 and I have a long torso, so with the standard stem I feel like I’m steering from my hips. I ordered a 130mm, 40 degree stem from Nashbar, which I hope will make the fit better.

Do you think there’s any value or possibility to putting in longer cranks? I ask because I’m not getting the pedal power that I do from my road bike.

I dread the prospect of locking it up, but ultimately there are places, like the gym, where I just won’t be able to bring the Swift inside with me. As such, I’m looking to either follow the Sheldon Brown methodology: put a locking skewer on the front wheel and lock the tire with a mini U lock or use a full-sized U lock through the frame and rear wheel. I’ll then either take the seat post with me or lock it with a cable.


Overall, I’m ecstatic, because the fundamentals of this bike are so good. I would love your opinions on swapping out the tires, cranks, and stem.

Sounds like you made a copy of my bike except I went with the extra long stem as I have a long torso. I was the first one to put Big Apples (that I know of) on a Swift. I personally love them as they have been a bulletproof tire so far and are pretty fast. The other advantage of them is their ride is good and the rougher the pavement, the more they hold a speed advantage over other tires. On smooth pavement there are faster tires. I don't live in a smooth world. So if you have rough pavement you can put on lighter "faster" tires and go slower. Try airing up the tires as well to see what you think if you haven't already tried that.

I wouldn't go with longer cranks. Try to explain exactly what you are wanting to do better. You can compensate for crank size with gearing changes and have less risk of pedal strikes on the ground if you are turning. Do you have really long legs?

Glad you like the bike. Just be careful with the silver paint as it isn't as durable as the powder coating. You will love the hub the more you ride it. I can't see ever using a derailleur on most my bikes now after using this hub I like it so much. Sure, it may be "slightly" less efficient than a perfectly setup derailleur but it more than makes up for it in other areas.

If you decide to take of the BA's, let me know. I can always use a second set. :-)

Waveshrder:

You were the test pilot on the hub and big apples-- I've been following this thread for a while, and that both worked for you convinced me to try them.

I'll keep riding this weekend and give everybody a more full report, including after I pump up the Big Apples a bit.

If I do decide to forego the Big Apples, I think I'll put them on my girlfriend's (soon to be purchased) Downtube. (Your review was also a big factor there too!)

Also, I think I'll pick up a pair of Power Straps.

Cheers,
Ari

Glad you like it so far. If you go with the Marathon, avoid the plus models UNLESS you need a very flat-resistant tire. They feel much heavier and slower than the Big Apples. The Marathon Racers are nice tires but spendy.

At the risk of hijacking the thread (not my intent) what DT will you buy? I am totally sold on internal hubs at this point after years of being a derailleur convert I realize they have gotten very good while many people have not been paying attention.

My Swift is still my favorite folder by far and doesn't look like anything will unseat it soon either. You could also try Tioga Comp Pools (very light and fast) as a choice but not very flat resistant for most people. So far I've had not issues. Of course now I'll get a flat.

Enjoy the bike and let us know when you get it sorted out.

An allusion to DT, which may or may not catalyze a hijack, is a mark of thread merit. Yan has revolutionized the folder world. Another sentence, and this would be a hijack.

I've been following this thread for a while, and the positive information as well as the design and look has really gotten me interested in the Swift as a replacement for my 1996 Schwinn Mesa as a commuter. The Mesa has been very reliable but storage, especially at work, is an issue. Plus I also just flat out like how the Swift looks.

My problem is that my commute, while only 4.5 miles, has a 300' grade at either end, in one case running for .5 mile, in the other for about 2 miles. In both cases the gradient varies from short stretches of about 8% to far lower amounts. On the Mesa I take the worst portions on the lowest gears which are 25/28, if that helps.

I'm wondering about the Swift and if the standard Xootr gearing will be low enough for my climbs. I know some of the SF people have tested theirs in the city, but still would like any input on the bike's ability in doing regular steady climbs that are fairly steep in my experience.

I'd also be using the Swift for trail rides in the area (Seattle)--these are generally far flatter as many follow waterways or old railroad grades. So I'm trying to figure out a good compromise gearing answer. Would I be best going directly to Peter or would a stock xootr gearing be able to meet my needs?

It's not hard to put a FD and double chainring crankset on a Swift. The smaller chainring should take care of the grades.

I have a custom Swift with a Sturmey-Archer hub. I have a gear range of 31" - 96", vs. the stock Xootr gearing of 36" - 91". I think even 31" is too high for extended climbing on the hills here in SF. I can make it up a block of 18 degrees, but not much further and probably no steeper.

I'd agree with Maunakea that you could manage with double front chainrings (though I am uncertain how easy it is with the (new) aluminium frame). Your best bet might be getting Peter to build you a rear wheel with the SRAM DualDrive (which I was VERY close to chosing myself..)

Magnus

Yeah, 31" is too high for my need, I'd be walking the bike more than I care to. My Mesa's low is about 23", which isn't bad for the worst stretches. I need to ride more regularly to develop strength for a higher gear.

I have been intrigued by your use of the S-A hub since you mentioned it earlier in the post. I've got a cheap old folder (I wish it was a twenty!) with a 3-speed AW and it's surprisingly rugged. Not to mention the ease of shifting.

I'll send Peter an email and see what he thinks.

You didn't mention why you didn't go with the SRAM DualDrive--sorry if I missed it in the thread (I searched but the monster size of this thread, combined with forum search not running right now makes that difficult :()