Swift folders
#576
too many bikes
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Bac, "re-index" usually does mean tweak the barrel adjuster. Unusually rough handling (ever watch ramp workers load luggage... or I should say throw luggage) seems to bend the RD hanger to the point I need to reset the RD limit screws (can't think of another explanation of why this need arises). After traveling with the Swift and with my 700c Dean El Diente with S&S BTCs, I finally bought a Park RD adjustment tool to true up the hanger when the bikes in "are the hangar." [such word play, better than Jack Aubrey, but not up to Edmund Spenser]
Last edited by maunakea; 08-08-06 at 12:54 PM.
#577
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Location: Carlisle, in England's Lake District, just a few miles south of the border with Scotland.
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Bikes: A Bianchi C2C road bike, a steel framed touring bike and a Xootr Swift folder which has made the rest redundant!
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Took delivery of an Aluminium 8 speed (SRAM) Xootr Swift a week ago, here in the UK, and am very impressed. I wanted a great riding bike that folded - not a folder you could ride and the Swift fills the bill.
So far I have fitted Ergon R2 bar ends, changed the saddle and pedals but that is all. I love the look and ride of the bike. I also own several "conventional" racing bikes which have now been made redundant because I connot keep off the Swift! The large diameter down tube has meant that the QR racks will not fit but I will be using a Carradice SQR seat pack which attaches to a bracket which clamps to the seat tube. I have checked and if I mount it just below the saddle the seat tube will still slide down when the bike is folded and hold the package together enough for me to put it in my car.
I have also found a "clip-on" bottle cage which has a quick release fitting. It is a KF Performance model made of tough plastic (or something similar) and the QR bracket can turn so that the bottle cage can fit to 'bars or stem riser. When fully unscrewed it also clamps to the seat tube (with a bit of a shove) and the QR lever secures it. I prefer to have the bottle on the seat tube and the cage can be quickly removed to fold the bike. Up front I have fitted a "T" bar to the riser and attached my 'bar bag to it. The "T" bar is a more rugged version of the Minoura gadget which clamps to the 'bars to accommodate lights. This one slides down the 1 1/8th riser and is clamped like a stem. It means the 'bar bag leaves the 'bars clear, does not interfere with the break levers and it keeps the centre of gravity low. Both items were sourced from www.sjscycles.com here in the UK. I am not sure how many Swifts are over here but I love the thing and am already planning to clear out my stable of other bikes. This little gem is perfect for my riding which is generally day rides in the nearby countryside. Being able to slip it into the back of my car will enable me to cycle in other locations. It is one great little machine!!
So far I have fitted Ergon R2 bar ends, changed the saddle and pedals but that is all. I love the look and ride of the bike. I also own several "conventional" racing bikes which have now been made redundant because I connot keep off the Swift! The large diameter down tube has meant that the QR racks will not fit but I will be using a Carradice SQR seat pack which attaches to a bracket which clamps to the seat tube. I have checked and if I mount it just below the saddle the seat tube will still slide down when the bike is folded and hold the package together enough for me to put it in my car.
I have also found a "clip-on" bottle cage which has a quick release fitting. It is a KF Performance model made of tough plastic (or something similar) and the QR bracket can turn so that the bottle cage can fit to 'bars or stem riser. When fully unscrewed it also clamps to the seat tube (with a bit of a shove) and the QR lever secures it. I prefer to have the bottle on the seat tube and the cage can be quickly removed to fold the bike. Up front I have fitted a "T" bar to the riser and attached my 'bar bag to it. The "T" bar is a more rugged version of the Minoura gadget which clamps to the 'bars to accommodate lights. This one slides down the 1 1/8th riser and is clamped like a stem. It means the 'bar bag leaves the 'bars clear, does not interfere with the break levers and it keeps the centre of gravity low. Both items were sourced from www.sjscycles.com here in the UK. I am not sure how many Swifts are over here but I love the thing and am already planning to clear out my stable of other bikes. This little gem is perfect for my riding which is generally day rides in the nearby countryside. Being able to slip it into the back of my car will enable me to cycle in other locations. It is one great little machine!!
#579
Señor Mambo
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Originally Posted by Paul Braithwait
The large diameter down tube has meant that the QR racks will not fit but I will be using a Carradice SQR seat pack which attaches to a bracket which clamps to the seat tube.
I have checked and if I mount it just below the saddle the seat tube will still slide down when the bike is folded and hold the package together enough for me to put it in my car.
#580
Señor Mambo
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Originally Posted by maunakea
You can now outrun any Glaswegian Brommie or Merc, after spotting them half the distance.

(Neither Aubrey nor Spenser, but "Homer."

#582
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Originally Posted by spambait11
I've found when fitting it to a Bike Friday seatpost (28.6mm) I have to slightly widen the metal clips which hold the plastic mount. No biggie, just tap the top with a hammer a few taps. I assume the Swift's seatpost is just as wide if not wider?
Depending on the seat (much worse if you're using a sprung Brooks saddle), you might want to test fit the whole SQR system with the bag first, as I've found that if you mount the plastic block too high, you can't install or remove the seat bag because it will collide with the seat.
Depending on the seat (much worse if you're using a sprung Brooks saddle), you might want to test fit the whole SQR system with the bag first, as I've found that if you mount the plastic block too high, you can't install or remove the seat bag because it will collide with the seat.
Have used the SQR mount on various bikes and always have it right at the top of the seat tube without any problems of the bag being blocked by the saddle.
#583
Folding bike junkie!
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Paul - Congrats on the new ride. I am sure you will love your Swift as much as we do. It tends to make other bikes superfluous. If only it would fold a bit smaller. I'd even be interested in one with 16" wheels to (349).
#584
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Glad to know that the Carradice quick release will fit, as I have been thinking about carrying things..
Here is a picture of the rack I've put on the bike. First I got a beautiful Nitto M-12 rack, but sadly it didn't fit. Looked good though! Then at a fraction of the cost a Nashbar front rack. It seems decent quality, though painted aluminum doesn't look as nice as polished stainless. I must say I'm impressed with this rack - it looks well made, and all the mounting hardware is stainless steel - oh and locking nuts included. On sale, reduced from $15 to $10.. It attaches to the brake bosses and the hole in the fork crown.
I'm a little concerned about the rack mounting to the brake bosses, but I've never heard of this setup failing.. Fingers crossed! I'll be monitoring closely. Ideally, I would like mounting bosses on the frame, so that I could mount a front rack on the frame like a Moulton or a Brompton.
Since the center of gravity is so low with 20" wheels, the handling is fine. I've had almost 20lbs of shopping on, which was probably pushing it.. Looks like I can even make my Ortliebs fit too.
The reason I chose a front rack was mainly that it interferes very little with the fold. Some people have used seat post racks, but I find this a poor solution for everyday use. I don't want to have to remove a rack each time I fold, or carry the seatpost and rack each time I lock up.. As always, YMMV and if you have a solution that works for you that's great!
(You can see the Nitto that didn't fit at: https://yangmusa.blogspot.com/)
Here is a picture of the rack I've put on the bike. First I got a beautiful Nitto M-12 rack, but sadly it didn't fit. Looked good though! Then at a fraction of the cost a Nashbar front rack. It seems decent quality, though painted aluminum doesn't look as nice as polished stainless. I must say I'm impressed with this rack - it looks well made, and all the mounting hardware is stainless steel - oh and locking nuts included. On sale, reduced from $15 to $10.. It attaches to the brake bosses and the hole in the fork crown.
I'm a little concerned about the rack mounting to the brake bosses, but I've never heard of this setup failing.. Fingers crossed! I'll be monitoring closely. Ideally, I would like mounting bosses on the frame, so that I could mount a front rack on the frame like a Moulton or a Brompton.
Since the center of gravity is so low with 20" wheels, the handling is fine. I've had almost 20lbs of shopping on, which was probably pushing it.. Looks like I can even make my Ortliebs fit too.
The reason I chose a front rack was mainly that it interferes very little with the fold. Some people have used seat post racks, but I find this a poor solution for everyday use. I don't want to have to remove a rack each time I fold, or carry the seatpost and rack each time I lock up.. As always, YMMV and if you have a solution that works for you that's great!
(You can see the Nitto that didn't fit at: https://yangmusa.blogspot.com/)

#585
always rides with luggage
Say, has anyone used a chain guide on their Al-framed Swift? I am going NUTS with this chain falling off of the left-hand side of the chainring.
Chain guide at Nashbar
I keep meaning to post pics... maybe I will snap some while I'm out. My Swift spent its first train ride on a Caltrain luggage rack yesterday... it has proven its worth to me yet again.
Chain guide at Nashbar
I keep meaning to post pics... maybe I will snap some while I'm out. My Swift spent its first train ride on a Caltrain luggage rack yesterday... it has proven its worth to me yet again.
__________________
--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
Non-Bike hardware: MX Linux / BunsenLabs Linux / Raspbian / Mac OS 10.6 / Android 7
--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
Non-Bike hardware: MX Linux / BunsenLabs Linux / Raspbian / Mac OS 10.6 / Android 7
#586
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Originally Posted by bigbenaugust
Say, has anyone used a chain guide on their Al-framed Swift? I am going NUTS with this chain falling off of the left-hand side of the chainring.
Chain guide at Nashbar
I keep meaning to post pics... maybe I will snap some while I'm out. My Swift spent its first train ride on a Caltrain luggage rack yesterday... it has proven its worth to me yet again.
Chain guide at Nashbar
I keep meaning to post pics... maybe I will snap some while I'm out. My Swift spent its first train ride on a Caltrain luggage rack yesterday... it has proven its worth to me yet again.
Bruce
#587
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I hope this works! Photo's of my front 'bar bag attachment using a "T" bar which fits on 1 1/8" steerer tube. Attached to it is a Topeak bar bag bracket which has a neat, removable little gadget to which you can fix your cycle-computer. As I have plenty of room on the 'bars to fit a computer I cut a narrow (1/4") slot along the length of the Topeak attachment and found that my Blackburn mini-pump snapped in no bother at all!
Last edited by Paul Braithwait; 08-31-06 at 03:35 PM.
#588
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Originally Posted by bigbenaugust
Say, has anyone used a chain guide on their Al-framed Swift? I am going NUTS with this chain falling off of the left-hand side of the chainring.
#589
All ur bike r belong Enki
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Originally Posted by bigbenaugust
I keep meaning to post pics... maybe I will snap some while I'm out. My Swift spent its first train ride on a Caltrain luggage rack yesterday... it has proven its worth to me yet again.

#590
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Chain tug for fixed Swift?
I haven't felt a need for a chain tug on my steel fixie, but I'm wondering if aluminum dropouts make 'em a good idea, at least one on the drive side? What say you fixed Swift riders? Any particular brand recommended?
#591
NY / New Haven biker
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New Hub Swift-- impressions + questions on tuning in the fit
Peter just delivered my new Swift, and while I could use your suggestions on tweaks, overall I'm pretty amazed; all the good things said about the Swift hold, as well as a few others. I had initially wanted the powder coated black frame, but they weren’t in stock, so I instead got the silver aluminum, which looks really good. I’ll post pictures when I get a chance, but it’s probably nothing you haven’t seen before. And I think the fold, while big, is perfect for my purposes.
My bike differs from a stock bike in that it includes:
• Big apple tires
• Shimano red label hub
• Plastic mud guards
• Bar ends
The hub is wonderful. It’s smooth and quiet. Additionally, as a New York rider I really appreciate being able to shift while not moving. I highly recommend the hub!
I’m not so sure however, about the Big Apples. They are plush, but for my riding style probably not enough to warrant the extra weight. I ride like I’m on thin tires—I use ramps and avoid potholes— so while I’m not using the tires to their fullest, I still carry their extra weight. I think I might switch to Marathon slicks. Does anybody have thoughts?
The fit is currently too small for me—I’m almost 6’1 and I have a long torso, so with the standard stem I feel like I’m steering from my hips. I ordered a 130mm, 40 degree stem from Nashbar, which I hope will make the fit better.
Do you think there’s any value or possibility to putting in longer cranks? I ask because I’m not getting the pedal power that I do from my road bike.
I dread the prospect of locking it up, but ultimately there are places, like the gym, where I just won’t be able to bring the Swift inside with me. As such, I’m looking to either follow the Sheldon Brown methodology: put a locking skewer on the front wheel and lock the tire with a mini U lock or use a full-sized U lock through the frame and rear wheel. I’ll then either take the seat post with me or lock it with a cable.
Overall, I’m ecstatic, because the fundamentals of this bike are so good. I would love your opinions on swapping out the tires, cranks, and stem.
My bike differs from a stock bike in that it includes:
• Big apple tires
• Shimano red label hub
• Plastic mud guards
• Bar ends
The hub is wonderful. It’s smooth and quiet. Additionally, as a New York rider I really appreciate being able to shift while not moving. I highly recommend the hub!
I’m not so sure however, about the Big Apples. They are plush, but for my riding style probably not enough to warrant the extra weight. I ride like I’m on thin tires—I use ramps and avoid potholes— so while I’m not using the tires to their fullest, I still carry their extra weight. I think I might switch to Marathon slicks. Does anybody have thoughts?
The fit is currently too small for me—I’m almost 6’1 and I have a long torso, so with the standard stem I feel like I’m steering from my hips. I ordered a 130mm, 40 degree stem from Nashbar, which I hope will make the fit better.
Do you think there’s any value or possibility to putting in longer cranks? I ask because I’m not getting the pedal power that I do from my road bike.
I dread the prospect of locking it up, but ultimately there are places, like the gym, where I just won’t be able to bring the Swift inside with me. As such, I’m looking to either follow the Sheldon Brown methodology: put a locking skewer on the front wheel and lock the tire with a mini U lock or use a full-sized U lock through the frame and rear wheel. I’ll then either take the seat post with me or lock it with a cable.
Overall, I’m ecstatic, because the fundamentals of this bike are so good. I would love your opinions on swapping out the tires, cranks, and stem.
#592
Folding bike junkie!
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Sounds like you made a copy of my bike except I went with the extra long stem as I have a long torso. I was the first one to put Big Apples (that I know of) on a Swift. I personally love them as they have been a bulletproof tire so far and are pretty fast. The other advantage of them is their ride is good and the rougher the pavement, the more they hold a speed advantage over other tires. On smooth pavement there are faster tires. I don't live in a smooth world. So if you have rough pavement you can put on lighter "faster" tires and go slower. Try airing up the tires as well to see what you think if you haven't already tried that.
I wouldn't go with longer cranks. Try to explain exactly what you are wanting to do better. You can compensate for crank size with gearing changes and have less risk of pedal strikes on the ground if you are turning. Do you have really long legs?
Glad you like the bike. Just be careful with the silver paint as it isn't as durable as the powder coating. You will love the hub the more you ride it. I can't see ever using a derailleur on most my bikes now after using this hub I like it so much. Sure, it may be "slightly" less efficient than a perfectly setup derailleur but it more than makes up for it in other areas.
If you decide to take of the BA's, let me know. I can always use a second set. :-)
I wouldn't go with longer cranks. Try to explain exactly what you are wanting to do better. You can compensate for crank size with gearing changes and have less risk of pedal strikes on the ground if you are turning. Do you have really long legs?
Glad you like the bike. Just be careful with the silver paint as it isn't as durable as the powder coating. You will love the hub the more you ride it. I can't see ever using a derailleur on most my bikes now after using this hub I like it so much. Sure, it may be "slightly" less efficient than a perfectly setup derailleur but it more than makes up for it in other areas.
If you decide to take of the BA's, let me know. I can always use a second set. :-)
#593
NY / New Haven biker
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Waveshrder:
You were the test pilot on the hub and big apples-- I've been following this thread for a while, and that both worked for you convinced me to try them.
I'll keep riding this weekend and give everybody a more full report, including after I pump up the Big Apples a bit.
If I do decide to forego the Big Apples, I think I'll put them on my girlfriend's (soon to be purchased) Downtube. (Your review was also a big factor there too!)
Also, I think I'll pick up a pair of Power Straps.
Cheers,
Ari
You were the test pilot on the hub and big apples-- I've been following this thread for a while, and that both worked for you convinced me to try them.
I'll keep riding this weekend and give everybody a more full report, including after I pump up the Big Apples a bit.
If I do decide to forego the Big Apples, I think I'll put them on my girlfriend's (soon to be purchased) Downtube. (Your review was also a big factor there too!)
Also, I think I'll pick up a pair of Power Straps.
Cheers,
Ari
#594
Folding bike junkie!
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Glad you like it so far. If you go with the Marathon, avoid the plus models UNLESS you need a very flat-resistant tire. They feel much heavier and slower than the Big Apples. The Marathon Racers are nice tires but spendy.
At the risk of hijacking the thread (not my intent) what DT will you buy? I am totally sold on internal hubs at this point after years of being a derailleur convert I realize they have gotten very good while many people have not been paying attention.
My Swift is still my favorite folder by far and doesn't look like anything will unseat it soon either. You could also try Tioga Comp Pools (very light and fast) as a choice but not very flat resistant for most people. So far I've had not issues. Of course now I'll get a flat.
Enjoy the bike and let us know when you get it sorted out.
At the risk of hijacking the thread (not my intent) what DT will you buy? I am totally sold on internal hubs at this point after years of being a derailleur convert I realize they have gotten very good while many people have not been paying attention.
My Swift is still my favorite folder by far and doesn't look like anything will unseat it soon either. You could also try Tioga Comp Pools (very light and fast) as a choice but not very flat resistant for most people. So far I've had not issues. Of course now I'll get a flat.
Enjoy the bike and let us know when you get it sorted out.
#595
too many bikes
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An allusion to DT, which may or may not catalyze a hijack, is a mark of thread merit. Yan has revolutionized the folder world. Another sentence, and this would be a hijack.
#596
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I've been following this thread for a while, and the positive information as well as the design and look has really gotten me interested in the Swift as a replacement for my 1996 Schwinn Mesa as a commuter. The Mesa has been very reliable but storage, especially at work, is an issue. Plus I also just flat out like how the Swift looks.
My problem is that my commute, while only 4.5 miles, has a 300' grade at either end, in one case running for .5 mile, in the other for about 2 miles. In both cases the gradient varies from short stretches of about 8% to far lower amounts. On the Mesa I take the worst portions on the lowest gears which are 25/28, if that helps.
I'm wondering about the Swift and if the standard Xootr gearing will be low enough for my climbs. I know some of the SF people have tested theirs in the city, but still would like any input on the bike's ability in doing regular steady climbs that are fairly steep in my experience.
I'd also be using the Swift for trail rides in the area (Seattle)--these are generally far flatter as many follow waterways or old railroad grades. So I'm trying to figure out a good compromise gearing answer. Would I be best going directly to Peter or would a stock xootr gearing be able to meet my needs?
My problem is that my commute, while only 4.5 miles, has a 300' grade at either end, in one case running for .5 mile, in the other for about 2 miles. In both cases the gradient varies from short stretches of about 8% to far lower amounts. On the Mesa I take the worst portions on the lowest gears which are 25/28, if that helps.
I'm wondering about the Swift and if the standard Xootr gearing will be low enough for my climbs. I know some of the SF people have tested theirs in the city, but still would like any input on the bike's ability in doing regular steady climbs that are fairly steep in my experience.
I'd also be using the Swift for trail rides in the area (Seattle)--these are generally far flatter as many follow waterways or old railroad grades. So I'm trying to figure out a good compromise gearing answer. Would I be best going directly to Peter or would a stock xootr gearing be able to meet my needs?
Last edited by flea; 08-26-06 at 08:05 AM.
#597
too many bikes
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It's not hard to put a FD and double chainring crankset on a Swift. The smaller chainring should take care of the grades.
#598
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Originally Posted by flea
I'm wondering about the Swift and if the standard Xootr gearing will be low enough for my climbs. I know some of the SF people have tested theirs in the city, but still would like any input on the bike's ability in doing regular steady climbs that are fairly steep in my experience.
I'd agree with Maunakea that you could manage with double front chainrings (though I am uncertain how easy it is with the (new) aluminium frame). Your best bet might be getting Peter to build you a rear wheel with the SRAM DualDrive (which I was VERY close to chosing myself..)
Magnus
#599
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Originally Posted by yangmusa
I have a custom Swift with a Sturmey-Archer hub. I have a gear range of 31" - 96", vs. the stock Xootr gearing of 36" - 91". I think even 31" is too high for extended climbing on the hills here in SF. I can make it up a block of 18 degrees, but not much further and probably no steeper.
I have been intrigued by your use of the S-A hub since you mentioned it earlier in the post. I've got a cheap old folder (I wish it was a twenty!) with a 3-speed AW and it's surprisingly rugged. Not to mention the ease of shifting.
I'll send Peter an email and see what he thinks.
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Originally Posted by yangmusa
Your best bet might be getting Peter to build you a rear wheel with the SRAM DualDrive (which I was VERY close to chosing myself..)
