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Swift folders

Old 01-29-07, 12:22 PM
  #901  
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I've got a 2006 Xootr purchased from Peter. Like James said, it has 135 mm spacing. On Peter's suggestion, I'm using the stock crank/chainring on a Shimano 107mm bottom bracket, and the chainline is excellent using an IRO small flange rear hub. I had to add several spacers to the hub for it to fit, and I'm thinking it was designed for 120 road spacing, but with a long axle for versatility. Off hand, I can't remember if my chainring is on the inside or outside of the spider. I'll try to remember to check when I'm home. Based on what James writes, I guess it should be on the inside.

Jack
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Old 01-30-07, 03:48 PM
  #902  
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James and Jack,
Thanks so much for your help!
Ill try to post pictures when I'm done.
Also, I've read this in this thread that removing the stock bottom bracket from the Xootr Swift was a real pain. Was that your experience? Any advice?
Thanks again,
Jonathan
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Old 01-30-07, 05:11 PM
  #903  
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Originally Posted by JonathanG
James and Jack,
Thanks so much for your help!
Ill try to post pictures when I'm done.
Also, I've read this in this thread that removing the stock bottom bracket from the Xootr Swift was a real pain. Was that your experience? Any advice?
Thanks again,
Jonathan
It can be a pain in some situations. I've seen a report of Loctite used on the BB. I had a seized BB on my Swift due to rust. I've had excellent results in removing the bottom bracket on my new Swift with the following method:

1.) Get a 25" breaker bar
2.) Get a BB socket
-Remove the wheels and place the frame (drive-side facing you) on a carpeted floor against a wall for support. Put your left foot on the chainstay just behind the seat tube, hold the socket in place with your left hand and push down on the breaker bar with your right hand. Put your weight into it, if need be, and the BB should easily give-way. Now turn the frame around and repeat, this time pulling up on the breaker bar.

The key here is torque, and a 25" breaker bar provides plenty of it.
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Old 01-30-07, 06:04 PM
  #904  
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This is the email I received from Xootr:

Sorry it's been a while getting back to you. We've been in a bit of a quandary over what to do. We really like the bike forum and communities like them. We'd really like to give you some kind of a discount, but can't figure out how to do it without upsetting our dealers and full paying customers.

One possibilty is for members of your group to buy factory seconds from us.
We offer these at a price of $599. Most people don't know about these and it is something we don't broadly advertise. But when we do get a second in, it usually sells quickly. Someone eventually calls looking for a deal and typically buys when we suggest a factory second. Customers are very happy with the seconds because of their quality. We are very picky about what goes out to customers and any kind of bike with a cosmetic imperfection becomes a second. Of course, all the seconds function perferctly. I'd say 90 percent of our seconds are paint chips or scratches. We just touch up the chip or scratch and sell it as a second.
Most customers wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The full warranty still applys.

Unfortunately, we are currently out of seconds, but we expect a shipment of several hundred new bikes in the next 3 weeks and I'm sure we'll have a few (my guess is a dozen or so) that have a scratch or chip from the shipping process. If anyone from your group is interested in one of these future seconds, they could contact us and we could put them on a priority wait list for when they come in.

Let me know if this is helpful. It at least provides some kind of a discount and you don't have to go through the hassle of putting together a group purchase. Let me know if you have any questions.
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Old 01-30-07, 06:48 PM
  #905  
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Fair response from Xootr.
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Old 01-30-07, 06:49 PM
  #906  
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Originally Posted by JonathanG
I've read this in this thread that removing the stock bottom bracket from the Xootr Swift was a real pain. Was that your experience? Any advice?
I pulled my crank and bottom bracket today, and the drive-side crank arm gave me fits. I eventually had to take a hammer to the extractor to force it to turn, destroying the blue rubberized handle in the process. Tight-tight-tight -- ridiculously so!

The bottom bracket was an absolute cinch on my frame, with just the standard adapter and a long breaker bar.
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Old 01-31-07, 03:47 PM
  #907  
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Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate
I pulled my crank and bottom bracket today, and the drive-side crank arm gave me fits. I eventually had to take a hammer to the extractor to force it to turn, destroying the blue rubberized handle in the process. Tight-tight-tight -- ridiculously so!

The bottom bracket was an absolute cinch on my frame, with just the standard adapter and a long breaker bar.
I forgot to add: put some anti-seize on the BB threads when you install your new BB to insure easy removal in the future. I picked-up a tube of Permatex anti-sieze from Kragen for around $4. It also comes in handy for use on your track cog and lockring.
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Old 01-31-07, 04:11 PM
  #908  
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Originally Posted by james_swift
put some anti-seize on the BB threads when you install your new BB...
All right, James! You're my kind of mechanic!

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Old 02-01-07, 07:48 AM
  #909  
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nice tutorial! (added it to my del.icio.us)
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Old 02-20-07, 05:47 PM
  #910  
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What headset does the aluminium swift frame use? (size, threadless...?)
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Old 02-20-07, 06:34 PM
  #911  
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Originally Posted by jur
What headset does the aluminium swift frame use? (size, threadless...?)
The headset is a weird slotted design used as part of the folding mechanism. The "riser" portion acts the same as a 1 1/8" threadless I believe. I have a standard 130mm threadless stem setup for my road-bar configuration.



There is a bar inside the take-apart stem portion that mates with the slot and gives it a nice solid feel.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-20-07, 07:13 PM
  #912  
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Looking at the pic of the headset itself, it looks like threaded headset's top nutset.

This would make sense to me, since it it was threadless, the fork would fall out upon taking off the stem parts... wouldn't it?

So, it looks like a threaded 1 1/8"headset?
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Old 02-21-07, 08:33 PM
  #913  
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Originally Posted by jur
So, it looks like a threaded 1 1/8"headset?
Hi Jur - yes it is. Peter Reich installed a Chris King Two Nut on my frameset; if you want something a lot cheaper, Peter uses Shimano's STX unit. Hope this helps.

OziSwift
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Old 02-22-07, 12:00 AM
  #914  
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Thanks. I may get a Ritchey headset - at least there is good quality (I think).
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Old 02-22-07, 04:36 PM
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Soon to be a Swift owner...

I hope to be receiving my Swift next week and join the ranks of Swift owners. I'm 6'4" and ordered the XL version, but plan to make a few customization (once it arrives.) I'd like to go with a drop bar rather than the flat bar, but was wondering what road brake levers would work best with V brake setup. Any suggestions? I have a spare set of bar end shifters and a 105 deraileur (short cage/double setup) that I plan to use for drivetrain. Never was a fan of twist grip setup, but that's just me.

Thanks!
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Old 02-22-07, 07:14 PM
  #916  
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Originally Posted by lphillips
I'd like to go with a drop bar rather than the flat bar, but was wondering what road brake levers would work best with V brake setup. Any suggestions?
Dia-Compe 287 V levers for linear brakes.

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Old 02-22-07, 07:39 PM
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With the 287, how do you end up shifting? That's the nice part about having a drop bar is STI.
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Old 02-22-07, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lphillips
I was wondering what road brake levers would work best with V brake setup. Any suggestions? I have a spare set of bar end shifters and a 105 deraileur (short cage/double setup) that I plan to use for drivetrain. Never was a fan of twist grip setup, but that's just me. Thanks!
Hi

You have three options for using road brake levers with V brakes
(1) Diacompe (or Diatech) 287V brake levers.
(2) Use a Travel Agent.
(3) Use Tektro mini V brakes.

See my posts on page 34 - # 831 and #839 - amd you can check out the specs of my Swift on p33, post #805. The bar end shifter works well on with a short cage Ultegra rear derailleur although there is a post here somewhere about the short cage fouling the drop out on the 11T cog. I don't have that problem.

OziSwift
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Old 02-22-07, 10:04 PM
  #919  
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Originally Posted by lphillips
I hope to be receiving my Swift next week and join the ranks of Swift owners. I'm 6'4" and ordered the XL version, but plan to make a few customization (once it arrives.) I'd like to go with a drop bar rather than the flat bar, but was wondering what road brake levers would work best with V brake setup. Any suggestions? I have a spare set of bar end shifters and a 105 deraileur (short cage/double setup) that I plan to use for drivetrain. Never was a fan of twist grip setup, but that's just me.

Thanks!
+1 Speedo. I've run the 287's with v brakes and On-one Midge bars on two bikes. I tried Travel agents, but was unimpressed. I haven't worked through the shifting options, as I ride a lot of single-speed; that's how my Swift is set up right now. Anyway, I think the Dia-Compe 287 levers are a reasonable compromise. They are not as crisp as V-brake/Mountain levers, but carefully adjusted, are sufficient. They are certainly more effective than road levers with something like Avid Shorty 4's. There really is no perfect substitute for Road STI lever/shifters. I haven't found the need to try bar-cons or bar-end shifters yet. My next challenge is likely to be fitting the redline Nexus 8 shifter to drops. Maybe the HubBub Bar End (See Harris Cyclery).
Good Luck. May all our challenges be as happy as solving bike hardware puzzles.
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Old 02-22-07, 10:08 PM
  #920  
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Originally Posted by lphillips
I hope to be receiving my Swift next week and join the ranks of Swift owners. I'm 6'4" and ordered the XL version, but plan to make a few customization (once it arrives.) I'd like to go with a drop bar rather than the flat bar, but was wondering what road brake levers would work best with V brake setup. Any suggestions? I have a spare set of bar end shifters and a 105 deraileur (short cage/double setup) that I plan to use for drivetrain. Never was a fan of twist grip setup, but that's just me.

Thanks!
Meant to mention I also am 6'4". HPM built my steel Swift and did an excellent job. Fits very well.
Cheers
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Old 02-23-07, 01:11 AM
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photos

Originally Posted by Bop
Meant to mention I also am 6'4". HPM built my steel Swift and did an excellent job. Fits very well.
Cheers
Can you send out a couple of photos of your bike? I am interested in having one of the steel Swifts set up as a commuter and would be interested to learn more about their fit process etc. I won't buy a aluminum bike since I weigh 260+ and prefer steel for frame material, either way.
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Old 02-23-07, 09:39 AM
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[QUOTE=Speedub.Nate]All right, James! You're my kind of mechanic!

Very slick. I especially like the use of the QR as tool holder.
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Old 02-23-07, 07:03 PM
  #923  
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I need some clarification from one or some of you Swift enthusiasts. I have another thread going and trying to determine if one will fit me since I am about 6'05" and it looks like it's going to work. From what I can tell, there are three ways of getting one: Xootr, Peter Reich and HPM. It looks like Xootr's is aluminum and Peter's is steel. Other than that, what are the differences and who do you recommend.
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Old 02-23-07, 08:13 PM
  #924  
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I just ordered one from HPM. Either Jan, or his frame builder Mac or both will make your swift to order. It takes about 3 months to get one built. They hand cut and build each frame to order here in the US. I think that Peter only sells the same aluminum frames the xootr sells now. If you buy directly from Peter instead of xootr, you can have it custom built with your choice of components and color of powder coating.

I ordered a steel swift from HPM, because I like the fact that it is being fabricated and built to order in a 2-3 man shop here in the U.S.. I prefer steel to aluminum, and I also like that Jan developed and built the swift with Peter. Mac was already working on a swift frame when I called, so my wait time should be about a month(hopefully less).
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Old 02-24-07, 12:33 PM
  #925  
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Has anyone purchased a Swift from the car dealer in Berkeley? Can you test ride the bicycles there before you buy? Do they do any bike service there? Or would I need to take the bike to a local bike shop?

Does anyone know the actual weight of the Swift? I've been to bike shops, and when they weigh the Dahon bikes, they are a few pounds heavier. The bike shop suspects that Dahon weighs the bikes without the pedals, fenders and rack.

And how much weight does adding fenders to the bike add?

Thanks!
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