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Here is the 451 R556 Mod I did when I had the Swift...
http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...&postcount=115 |
Nice set up & thanks for sharing! :thumb:
Why's your Swift a "had"? Just curious as to why you don't have it anymore..:o I just got mine, and am really enjoying it! :D |
Kaito: Well done! You'll need an 11T cassette, I think. I think you're right about the 11t..! I can't pedal the bike more than 40-42kms/hr, and with the MuP8, I was closer to 50.. Once it arrives, I'm hoping the bigger 55t in the front will give me my speed back. What do you think? If not, will I be able to add just a 11t cog onto my current cassette? If I have to, I will. I'm really set on getting the bike set up like I prefer! It has a TON of potential, & I feel like I'm really tapping into it! :D Where did you get hold of the Airnimal stem riser? Do you know what its mass is? With a shim, sorry - but don't know how thick, the Airnimal stem just barely fit snug enough. The mech. at the LBS had to apply some kinda liquid that he said had some particles/bead, to get it to clamp down and stay snug. The stem/bar doesn't detach since it lost the quick release in the process, but I rarely take off or fold a bar, so no issue for me. I didn't get a weight on the Airnimal stem riser, but I would dare say that its prob half the weight of the steel Xootr one. Sorry, since its fairly permanent, I can't unbolt & weigh it right now.. Set up the wireless Cateye today, and fit a water bottle clamp/cage onto the seat post. : ) I'll update another pic once the FSA crankset's installed. :) |
Originally Posted by Kaito
(Post 8399297)
First stage of the Swift build has been complete! :D
I took it out for a quick night ride, on my commute route, and was THOROUGHLY impressed! :thumb: I'm sure its due to the hard, thin, Durano's, but I was doing MUCH more coasting than compared to my MuP8 equipped with Marathon Racers. Another factor was my upper body position being MUCH farther forward/lower, than the upright/comfort positioned Mu. There was a head-wind, but the more road-oriented positioned made the head-wind ride alot faster and bearable. As for the gearing, I'm still waiting a 55t outer ring, and will need it! With the 12/27 cass. on it now, I top out alot faster than my Mu with 11/32. For the next stage of the build, the Swift will be fitted with Tektro R556 calipers, ordered today, and 451 rims, which are due in Mar/Apr. Oh, the stem riser height will be trimmed also. ;) Current list of upgrades are: Handle bar: Profile design, Aero Wing TT Brake Levers: Tektro TT Shifters: Shimano TT levers mounted on Paul's Thumbies Saddle: SDG Ti-Fly C Front crank & ring: Currently stock, while waiting on FSA carbon crank 'Team issue', which will be fit with 55/44t rings.(should arrive in about a week, & I'll post an update) Rear cassette: Durace 12-27 Rear Derailer: Shimano 105 blk Front Derailer: Shimano 105 Front Derailer mount: From Xootr, listed on Swift accessories * to my relief, the Xootr FD mount has a built-in pulley that solves the issue of bottom-pull FD's! The pulley converts the pull to in a small, very effective package! - ingenious! (see pic!) GREAT work Xootr!:thumb: Tires/rims: Schwalbe, Durano Kevlar 406's stock Xootr Swift rims (451's due soon!) * Plan was to use the Kinetic Rims on from the Mu, but mid-way through rim transfer, we noticed the Dahon Kinetic front rim hub has been "Dahonized"....:mad: Its not standard road-hub width, so the Kinetics didn't make it onto the Swift. Stem riser: Stock Airnimal riser, with shim.*the stock Swift riser is steel, and DOES NOT do the bike justice! The Airnimal stem is alluminum & MUCH lighter! Pedals: MKS EZY, with PowerStraps added later. Here are some pics of the Swift in build, and a quick phone-pic fresh outta the shop! :love: |
Thanks for the compliments guys!
No matter what shape or form, the Swift IS one kick A55 bike! Now I'm REALLY look'n forward to the next club ride! ; ) |
Question on 451 wheel's spoke count for 215 lbs rider
I'd like to convert my Swift over to 451 sized wheels, but wasn't sure what spoke count I'd be safe with. I'm a tad over 6' 4" and weigh about 215 lbs. I was thinking of a 28 spoke count for the front, but not sure if I should go 32 or 36 spoke count for the back. I already have a set of Tektro long reach calipers, I just need to build up the wheels. Thanks in advance.
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Why exactly is it worth the trouble and expense to switch from 406 to 451?
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Everyone probably has their own reason, but I think it might be the same reason why people change from xxxgram parts to xxxgram parts? :o
Every little counts I suppose & since the 451's have less rolling resistance, I see'm great for keeping a fast pace, at a long stretch, all with less effort than 406's. Thats what I'm hoping for at least! :innocent: :D |
Originally Posted by Kaito
(Post 8408985)
Everyone probably has their own reason, but I think it might be the same reason why people change from xxxgram parts to xxxgram parts? :o
Every little counts I suppose & since the 451's have less rolling resistance, I see'm great for keeping a fast pace, at a long stretch, all with less effort than 406's. Thats what I'm hoping for at least! :innocent: :D But if bigger wheels are more efficient...how about making a wheel like with a 700 cm or 27 or 28 inch diameter? Hey, there's an idea! |
451mm wheels need smaller chain rings (as compared to 406mm) to reach "big wheel" equivalent gear inches
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Originally Posted by rickybails
(Post 8369077)
Yes for 451 wheels you need calipers - but very long reach ones. Last time I looked there was only one caliper on the market with the right reach - the Tektro R456 I think they are called (but look back in this thread to confirm).
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But if bigger wheels are more efficient...how about making a wheel like with a 700 cm or 27 or 28 inch diameter? Hey, there's an idea! I should just dodge the 451’s, and go straight to a set of 700’s! May not be the easiest install, but “Where there’s a will, there’s a way!” Heck, just can the Swift all together! (big applaud, and the crowd roars..) Oh, wait a sec. – maybe I actually was think’n…I happen to prefer smaller wheels, and though the 406 or 451 may still have a bit more rolling resistance, compared to the 700 big-bro’s, they still suit my ‘personal’ performance & convenience needs. Who know’s maybe its just a part of my cycling evolution, and in a couple,few years, I’ll have grown into a full size bike with ISO900 rims! – wait, not think’n again! :p They don’t even make that size, do they? Well hey, there’s another GREAT idea! Someone out there , get to build’n! Horses for courses.. Rant out – K. |
I've got some more good advanced ideas for the bi-cycle of the future, too. I think I've figured out a way to make a bike without complicated noisy heavy gears or dirty chains. What you do is make the front wheel very large and the pedals can attach directly to it, and then all you'll need is a tiny rear wheel just to keep the thing upright. It might look something like this:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/215/5...5451f4cef6.jpg And, for the more distant future, I have an idea for a bike that might even dispense with pedals, too! http://www.theglasgowstory.com/images/TGSA04810_m.jpg I also have some futuristic ideas for tires that would be totally immune to flats and blowouts! |
Right on! Now~ I think we're onto somethiing! :lol:
reverse technology, noone ever expected it! :thumb: |
Yup, and I'm working out a way to build a wheel-less bike that will run on irregular terrain. What you do is put logs underneath it, and then as you you pass over the logs you have your assistants take them and put them in front of you again.
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Originally Posted by werewolf
(Post 8421601)
Yup, and I'm working out a way to build a wheel-less bike that will run on irregular terrain. What you do is put logs underneath it, and then as you you pass over the logs you have your assistants take them and put them in front of you again.
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand
(Post 8412608)
Has anyone considered Paul Components v-brakes? The motoBMX if my memory is correct.
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Dunno if its due to the LBS's mechanic's magic, or just that the TT levers & V's actually do work, but I've had no issues what so ever with braking.
I regularly hit 50~55km's/hr on the downhills on my commute, and have been able to stop very effectively with one-finger pull, and w/only a fraction of the lever's pull-distance. Yeah, it is a temp. set up though. I'm waiting on my R556's which should be here soon, but the 451's aren't gonna be available till Mar, prob Apr! :twitchy: Also, still wait'n & hurt'n for my 55/44t front rings! The stock 53t w/ 12/27cass. has comfort since there's very little gap, but limited range...Esp. on my loooong climb on my ride home... |
Originally Posted by sqynt
(Post 8422948)
If they are meant for BMX bikes then they would be shorter than standard V-brakes, moving them in the wrong direction. As it's set up now, Kaito probably has some "mushy" brakes. I don't see any travel agents in conjunction with the TT brake levers. But hey, it's only temporary.
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand
(Post 8424178)
Just judging from the description, they gave them the BMX label since riders would switch from 406 to 451 wheels. They apparently also work for switching from 26" to 700c. If you take a look at them, you will see that they allow a lot of height adjustment.
TT levers are definitely short pull levers. If they work well enough for you, that probably just means your LBS did a really good job at setting up the brakes. |
Well..Still wait'n on the big 55t outer front ring, but I had the new crank set & 44t inner ring installed last night at the LBS. For now, my set up is 53t-44t front rings, so I've had a chance to test out the front derailer for my commute today..
When the mech. was setting it up & tuning it, he warned me that the chain drops if the bike's in a really high gear & I try to change rings in the front, but that its fine for middle & low gear shifting. So, on my ride to work, I shifted the front 2,3 times, no prob's, I'm stoked. Then, carelessness & curiosity lead me to try'n see if I could shift from my front big ring, to my the 44t front, while in 9th gear. - Didn't work..Chain dropped, and I sputtered out...:notamused: ~ shoulda listened to what the mech. advised! Next - my ride home, where I REALLY need to shift & use both rings. So I shifted plenty of times from 53t to 44t while in 1~6,7th gear - nice, smooth & precise. Till - I tried shifting from the 44t to the 53t while in 7th, and again..the dreaded drop...I sputtered out again, and got my second helping of greasy-fingers for the day..:notamused::notamused: Dunno if I've still not developed the ' fine art of shifting', or the FD needs more tuning, or perhaps the Swift just doesn't want a FD fitted on it..We'll see.. Still only one day with the set-up, and I'm probably pushing it a bit too much. When shifting between front rings in any of the lowest gears, up to 7th or so, there were no issues at all, so I'll have to use the FD within its sweet-spot - something I can adjust to & live with. :D Once the final 55t outer ring arrives & gets installed, I'll post a couple pics & how the set-up's work'n. :thumb: |
Have you tried working on with the chainline?
I have mine set up with a single in the front and a 9 speed in the rear. My goal was to center the front chainring right over the 5th rear cog. I had to change to a different bottom bracket to acheive this. You may want to bias the crank more toward the outer chainring. This can be accomplished with spacers or a wider bottom bracket. For those of you running a single front chainring, the best way to keep from dropping the chain (besides a chain guard) is to run a chainring designed to be single as opposed to running a chainring that is part of a multiple set-up (which are desined to "drop" easier when shifting). Because the single fronts do not have to cope with shifting, the teeth are quite a bit taller which keeps the chain on the teeth. I'm currently running a track chainring that had to be modified for a 3\32" shifting type chain. Shimano's track crank has chainrings for both 1/8" and 3/32" chain. |
Originally Posted by Kaito
(Post 8465474)
Dunno if I've still not developed the ' fine art of shifting', or the FD needs more tuning, or perhaps the Swift just doesn't want a FD fitted on it..We'll see.. Still only one day with the set-up, and I'm probably pushing it a bit too much. When shifting between front rings in any of the lowest gears, up to 7th or so, there were no issues at all, so I'll have to use the FD within its sweet-spot - something I can adjust to & live with. :D
My guess is that the problem is a mismatch between the optimal size chainrings and jump for the front derailer and the chainrings you selected. So what you are experiencing is one of the reasons for using a Capreo hub/cassette with standard chainring combination. |
Have you tried working on with the chainline? I have mine set up with a single in the front and a 9 speed in the rear. My goal was to center the front chainring right over the 5th rear cog. I had to change to a different bottom bracket to acheive this. You may want to bias the crank more toward the outer chainring. This can be accomplished with spacers or a wider bottom bracket. When I had my crank set & front rings changed, the BB was changed out at the same time. The BB came with the set, a FSA team issue, so I'm assuming the BB/chainring measurements are appropriately aligned for a double ringed front. I've logged a few more rides ,& with more conservative shifting, haven't had a drop again. (knock on wood) I'll be taking the bike on a 70km group ride this weekend, so its should be a good test. If its acts up, I'll definitely be fine tuning the chainline more. My guess is that the problem is a mismatch between the optimal size chainrings and jump for the front derailer and the chainrings you selected. So what you are experiencing is one of the reasons for using a Capreo hub/cassette with standard chainring combination. Still waiting on my outer ring (55t) so the project isn't complete just yet. Thanks for sharing your advice & opinions! Rgds, K. |
Big post re front derailer setup coming up...
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1. Set height: Height is critical. Try to get the front part of the cage (the toe) about 2mm above the teeth, or as close as possible, when in the large ring position. Make sure the back of the cage won't snag any teeth.
2. Set angle: With the chain on the smallest sprocket at the back and large chainwheel, set the part of the cage which would rub the chain if set incorrectly, parallel with the chain. This means when correctly set up, the cage is not perfectly parallel to the chainwheel, but is parallel to the chain. 3. Set limit screws: Set the screws such that for the 2 positions, the cage middle lines up with each chain wheel. This is an approximate aqdjustment; more accuracy comes later. 4. Make sure the cable goes through the derailer clamp screw correctly; this may not be obvious, so remove the clamp screw and look for the cable groove. There may also be a little tooth over which the cable must go. Attach the cable and adjust it so it is just slack when in the small ring position. 5. Adjust the H screw so the outer cage plate stops about 1mm past the outer chain ring when the shifter is engaged. Hopefully you don't have any chainring wobble. 6. Adjust the L screw so that the inner cage plate stops about 1mm past the inner chain ring when the shifter relaxes the cable. 7. Shifting should now be perfect while pedalling fast. If shifting to the H ring is hesitant, the front part if the inner plate of the cage may need to be bent slightly towards the H ring to ensure the chain is pushed onto it properly. Don't fiddle with the H screw - that leads to chain drop. You should be able to shift the the H ring with no chain drop from any sprocket except the largest in the back, at any speed. Shifting must be robust and error free. Don't be tempted to fiddle with the cage adjustment once it has been set up correctly. Trouble-shooting: Hesitant shifting to H ring: height too large, H screw too tight (only if rubbing when chain in H ring!), cage inner plate front needs toeing outwards Chain drop to outside: H screw too loose, cage back end rotated too far in. See also http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75 |
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/DSCN4064.jpg
This is the current version of my Swift - and it may stay this way! Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres may not be the lightest or fastest but they do work well at preventing punctures. I have noticed a slight extra effort is required to pedal since fitting the tyres but it is nothing to get excited about. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/DSCN4066.jpg Power Grips; why didn't I try them before! I have used various pedals on my bicycles and cannot get to grips with the SPD type. No matter what make of pedal or shoe combination I use, my feet hurt after a short while. I went back to using toe clips and straps and they were good but were a tight fit when wearing winter shoes. The Power Grips are great; so simple but they work a treat. Easy to get in and out of and they do not cramp my shoes. I can use any shoe to ride and my feet are held safely on the pedals. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/DSCN4069.jpg The handlebar stem is a very upright one which raises the 'bars to just above seat height. I know that the accepted wisdom states that the bars should be just below saddle height but the arrangement works for me. Note the small and very cheap video camera clamped to the stem riser. I bought it some time ago and it records on an SD card. It's very light, uses normal batteries and although not HD or Wide Screen, provides an interesting record of a ride. I really like the Swift. |
1. Set height: Height is critical. Try to get the front part of the cage (the toe) about 2mm above the teeth, or as close as possible, when in the large ring position. Make sure the back of the cage won't snag any teeth. 2. Set angle: With the chain on the smallest sprocket at the back and large chainwheel, set the part of the cage which would rub the chain if set incorrectly, parallel with the chain. This means when correctly set up, the cage is not perfectly parallel to the chainwheel, but is parallel to the chain. 3. Set limit screws: Set the screws such that for the 2 positions, the cage middle lines up with each chain wheel. This is an approximate aqdjustment; more accuracy comes later. 4. Make sure the cable goes through the derailer clamp screw correctly; this may not be obvious, so remove the clamp screw and look for the cable groove. There may also be a little tooth over which the cable must go. Attach the cable and adjust it so it is just slack when in the small ring position. 5. Adjust the H screw so the outer cage plate stops about 1mm past the outer chain ring when the shifter is engaged. Hopefully you don't have any chainring wobble. 6. Adjust the L screw so that the inner cage plate stops about 1mm past the inner chain ring when the shifter relaxes the cable. 7. Shifting should now be perfect while pedalling fast. If shifting to the H ring is hesitant, the front part if the inner plate of the cage may need to be bent slightly towards the H ring to ensure the chain is pushed onto it properly. Don't fiddle with the H screw - that leads to chain drop. You should be able to shift the the H ring with no chain drop from any sprocket except the largest in the back, at any speed. Shifting must be robust and error free. Don't be tempted to fiddle with the cage adjustment once it has been set up correctly. Trouble-shooting: Hesitant shifting to H ring: height too large, H screw too tight (only if rubbing when chain in H ring!), cage inner plate front needs toeing outwards Chain drop to outside: H screw too loose, cage back end rotated too far in. I took a look at the FD alighnment & indeed, its off...Infact the chain's rubbing on the FD, on the side towards the BB. It's also not perfectly parallel to the chain & is pointing outwards.. No wonder I had two more chain-drops today! :innocent: Will be making the needed adjustments from now. Thanks for helping me keep my chain in good behavior! :D Will post results. K. |
Originally Posted by Paul Braithwait
(Post 8503787)
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/DSCN4064.jpg
This is the current version of my Swift - and it may stay this way! |
I had a rummage around in my shed and found the mudguards under a pile of other bits and bobs. They are both front wheel guards (not sure how I came to have two fronts!). Haven't had the chance to try them in the real wet but the saddle bag deflects a lot of spray so between it and the guard I should be OK.
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