Want Bike to Go Faster
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Want Bike to Go Faster
Hi,
In my highest gear i end up spinning out and can only go so fast. Anything I can upgrade on the bike to reach a higher top speed?
Downtube Nova CRANK Prowheel 170mm with 3/32" 46T chainring
-Ruvee
In my highest gear i end up spinning out and can only go so fast. Anything I can upgrade on the bike to reach a higher top speed?
Downtube Nova CRANK Prowheel 170mm with 3/32" 46T chainring
-Ruvee
Last edited by ruvee; 03-08-13 at 01:06 PM. Reason: added T
#2
Carpe Velo
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Pedal in a higher gear. Or am I misunderstanding what you are asking?
#3
The Recumbent Quant
Ummmm... try switching to a higher gear?
Oh... that's probably what you meant.
You can put a double or triple crank on the bike with a front derailleur. Nicer tires with lower rolling resistance won't hurt either. Lastly, find a bigger hill to descend.
Cheers,
Charles
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#5
Carpe Velo
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#7
Banned
I meant highest gear.
a 60t chainring is available, if 53 is not high enough,
IDK if the crank you have offers a replaceable chainring.
If you pony up the cash a Schlumpf Speed Drive takes a 110 bcd chainring,
any size from 34t upward, then the internal overdrive gear multiplies that chainring size
by 1.6 X .. with a 34t thats 54.4 't' [works well on Brompton's 6 speeds]
then all you have to do is build a low racer recumbent; with the aerodynamics of a sharpened pencil.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-16-13 at 08:42 AM.
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Jumping to a 53T chainring (in the case of the Nova I thinks that's a matter of having to get a whole new crank?) will get you up to 18.7mph from 16.2mph at a cadence of 90rpm. Jumping to a 60T chainring will allow 21.1 mph at 90rpm. Alternatively if you keep the stock crank and instead lace up a freehub and get a cassette with the smallest sprocket being 11T, you could hit 20.6mph at 90rpm.
Either way the bottom line is yet again (to a certain degree), "Speed is just a question of money... how fast do you want to spend?"
Either way the bottom line is yet again (to a certain degree), "Speed is just a question of money... how fast do you want to spend?"
#10
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Jumping to a 53T chainring (in the case of the Nova I thinks that's a matter of having to get a whole new crank?) will get you up to 18.7mph from 16.2mph at a cadence of 90rpm. Jumping to a 60T chainring will allow 21.1 mph at 90rpm. Alternatively if you keep the stock crank and instead lace up a freehub and get a cassette with the smallest sprocket being 11T, you could hit 20.6mph at 90rpm.
Either way the bottom line is yet again (to a certain degree), "Speed is just a question of money... how fast do you want to spend?"
Either way the bottom line is yet again (to a certain degree), "Speed is just a question of money... how fast do you want to spend?"
#11
LET'S ROLL
Since we're talking about changing cranks,
I'm posting my latest video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...o8Ta8SBxE&NR=1
I'm posting my latest video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...o8Ta8SBxE&NR=1
__________________
One day: www.youtube.com/watch?v=20X43026ukY&list=UUHyRS8bRu6zPoymgKaIoDLA&index=1
One day: www.youtube.com/watch?v=20X43026ukY&list=UUHyRS8bRu6zPoymgKaIoDLA&index=1
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Simplist is to go to a larger chainring on the front and mount it on your current crankset. I am not sure what range of cogs you have in the rear. If the smallest is not as small as 11 teeth, that is another option. If you make the front chainring larger, this will raise your whole gear range, not just the high gear. Beyond that you would need a front derailer and two chainrings, which would then give you a lot more options. Use Sheldon Browns gear inch calculator to check out the relative differences of different combinations you try. I am running a 52 front with an 11 x 34 rear cassette, which gives me about a 28 inch low and an 88 inch high. (20" wheels) I still spin out at certain conditions, but at that point I just coast. The 28" low is working pretty well for climbing. (No load, but 6'5" and 230 lbs.)
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Thank you all for your advice.
I ordered a 11-28T Freewheel and Schwalbe Marathon tires. I will look into finding a new crank once I see how it feels with the new freewheel.
I ordered a 11-28T Freewheel and Schwalbe Marathon tires. I will look into finding a new crank once I see how it feels with the new freewheel.
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hmmm I would have changed the front crankset first with a 53 teeth ..... you will need a longer chain most likely as well ...
here is a selection for example
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_2e3sig7p0d_b
Now... you want 170 mm cranks if you tall u could get away with 172.5 mm ..not the shorter ones, and you need cranks only, than add a chainring with 53 teeth and you will need chainring bolts for single ( fixie ) Than its off to the dealer to pull the exiting crank and install the new one and switch pedals ... cut the new longer chain to perfect size ...
Best Thor
here is a selection for example
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_2e3sig7p0d_b
Now... you want 170 mm cranks if you tall u could get away with 172.5 mm ..not the shorter ones, and you need cranks only, than add a chainring with 53 teeth and you will need chainring bolts for single ( fixie ) Than its off to the dealer to pull the exiting crank and install the new one and switch pedals ... cut the new longer chain to perfect size ...
Best Thor
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New usename ThorUSA
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oh yah ..instead the puncture proof marathon..... the Racers are ok, the Kojaks would be much faster ...The marathons are good but not known to feel and be real fast ... .
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The cheapest way to get a higher gear is switch the freewheel to something with a smaller cog.
The most expensive way is to buy a different bike or two to go fast on, and keep the downtube for casual riding. That's what I did.
The most expensive way is to buy a different bike or two to go fast on, and keep the downtube for casual riding. That's what I did.
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hmmm I would have changed the front crankset first with a 53 teeth ..... you will need a longer chain most likely as well ...
here is a selection for example
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_2e3sig7p0d_b
Now... you want 170 mm cranks if you tall u could get away with 172.5 mm ..not the shorter ones, and you need cranks only, than add a chainring with 53 teeth and you will need chainring bolts for single ( fixie ) Than its off to the dealer to pull the exiting crank and install the new one and switch pedals ... cut the new longer chain to perfect size ...
Best Thor
here is a selection for example
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_2e3sig7p0d_b
Now... you want 170 mm cranks if you tall u could get away with 172.5 mm ..not the shorter ones, and you need cranks only, than add a chainring with 53 teeth and you will need chainring bolts for single ( fixie ) Than its off to the dealer to pull the exiting crank and install the new one and switch pedals ... cut the new longer chain to perfect size ...
Best Thor
I searched around for articles and threads regarding replacing my square taper 68mm bottom bracket and prowheel cranks to a better quality but could not find the information I was looking for.
Could i install something like this https://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cyclin...-crank-set.jsp onto the bike?
I believe my current BB size is 113mm.
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I was thinking of just buying another bike but I will probably get carried away with how much i spend on it .
#20
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I sold my timetrial racer after upgrading a 9ns to bullbars and briffers and shimano ugltera cranks. You don't need another bike to go fast. Upgraded Folders can really shift.
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Yes, that is the freewheel with which I upgraded my Origami Crane. They also run 11-30 and 11-32 for 7spd and even 11-34 for the 8spd. They can be found here:
https://www.ebikestop.com/search.php . . . search for "DNP Epoch"
https://www.ebikestop.com/search.php . . . search for "DNP Epoch"