Still Pedaling

I took my bike to the mechanic again yesterday and he made more adjustments to the rear derailleur. I rode it this morning and for the most part it was fine. Eventually the knocking sound came back, but less audible and less frequent. I love the bike and I love riding it, but I have a hard time dealing with things that don't work as it should. I'm sure all of you are the same way as well. Anyway, the mechanic mentioned to me that to change out the rear hub with say a 3-speed Sturmey Archer would run about $150. This includes all labor charges which includes, of course, having to rebuild the wheel and change out or modify the bottom bracket assembly.

I am going to go this route, but not at present until, of course, I have the extra brass to afford such a mod. I'm not a mechanic and I don't have the tools or skills, so I am at the mercy of someone else to do it for me. Unfortunately I don't have any friends who are gifted with working on bikes either. I'm sure that I can learn how to do the work if I was able to watch someone perform the task, but the other problem would be acquiring tools that I don't have to do the job properly.

If I allow the bike shop to order all the parts I will most likely pay a premium, so I thought, then, it might be best if I purchase the parts and just have the mechanic do the installation work. Now regarding the parts, I'm pretty sure what I need, I think, but what I don't know is all the sizes of the parts needed. There are many sizes of bottom brackets to choose from. Any thoughts on this? I checked it with my mountain bike and there is, of course, a noticeable difference. Also regarding the 3-speed hub, I'm not sure what size is involved here either, or if that matters. Can anyone of you folks that are gifted with bicycle mechanic skills put me on the right path as to what I need to purchase please. I would like/need to change out the entire bottom bracket assembly with a single speed gear. Before I forget, the mechanic mentioned that there are other brands with more than three gears to choose from. He mentioned that I don't have to go with a 3-speed Sturmey Archer.

Thanks for all your help guys.

Cheers
Wayne

fietsbob

The premium you pay is his wages.. and the overhead of running the shop that hired him.


You would choose a square taper BB and the crankset . as a combination
in order to have that one chainring in a line directly in front of the cog on the hub.
so the chain does not have to flex sideways at all ..

SA - 3 speed hub, with, any cog 16t or more will have an offset option .

more Knowledge gained at a long time on a near minimum wage Job..

pony up the cash , sell some stuff, at home, you don't Need.



sturmey archer has a deep well of spare parts to draw from If It Ever needs any ..

Given, AW3 has been made before WW2 ..


Yea Alfine Shimano brand, it goes to 11..

https://www.shimano.com/publish/conte.../0/alfine.html

Still Pedaling

Thank you for the reply. I have looked at the link you provided, and am a bit confused (for me that's easy). Correct me if I'm wrong. According to my understanding from what I read, my bike frame was designed for a derailleur system, and if so, I need what they refer to as a chain tensioner. If that is so, I wouldn't be able to use an internal geared hub without one (whether Sturmey Archer or Shimano)? I'm trying to keep the expense down, but if this is true, it only adds further expense in the long run. Are there internal geared hubs that don't require this tensioner?

Edit: I guess I'm answering my own question regarding the requirement of a tensioner or not. One thing I was concerned about was the length of the axle. A rough measurement with a 12" ruler shows that the axle length or available space is about 5". Sturmey Archer makes a 3-speed hub to fit 120 mm (old) and 130 mm size axles. Mine would be the 130 mm. So in effect then, it should work. Because the frame is for a derailleur, it has a drop out which means a tensioner is necessay unless one is able to pull the wheel up the drop out sufficient enough to apply the right tension to the chain. I will have to research that further, unless someone has an answer for me.

Here's the model Sturmey Archer that should fit my bike:

https://www.sturmey-archer.com/produc...d/3/id/47.html

fietsbob

Yes Vertical rear dropouts have become the Norm of late ,

Index shifting benefits from the axle being in the same place consistently.
when you remove the wheel
and the QR relatively loose, wont let the axle pull, forward, like it can under chain tension,
causing the tire to rub into the frame and stop turning.


S3X is either a fixed gear , using a splined cog , or if you screw on a single speed freewheel you can coast.

Its ratios are the middle and 2 lower gears of the 5 speed.. freewheel hub

Gear 1 - 62.5% (-)37.5%
Gear 2 - 75% (-)25% (Gear 1 + 20%)
Gear 3 - 100% Direct Drive (Gear 2 + 33%)

Would not attempt a fixed gear setup at all with a chain tensioner..

BassNotBass

S f-bob mentioned this is basically a fixie hub which would require you fit a freehub instead of a cog.

fietsbob

freewheel , but the link works to show the right kind of part.

BassNotBass

Right... sometimes I need a proof reader.

Still Pedaling

Join the club. member ship is huuuge.

Well, I not long came in from a nice ride. It wasn't too long a ride as the wind was in my face for much of it. I ran out of gas very quickly. Man am I out of shape . The bike -- quiet as a mouse. Go figure . Tomorrows ride might make up for today's

fietsbob

nothing like the sound of a headwind rushing over your ears to lower the S/N aspect of the Bike You are On.

Still Pedaling

Man, and here I thought all well with the wheels

alecw35

Ive looked at some pics of Adventurer folding bikes. Im not sure what model they have. some of the pics show horizontal drop outs, with a derailleur that has a claw/hook part that sits under the wheel nut, and has a small retaining bolt.
If its that bike. It does offer some wheel adjustment.
I see the folding mechanism, in the pictures. Id be checking to see if that's in good condition. Oil the joining pin area. Make sure the quick release is secure.
As noises on bikes can seem to be from one area, but are from another

Still Pedaling

If you are looking at their website (Campingworld), you will not see my model unless you watch the short video showing how to fold one. Mine has been replaced by the all black 12 speed model shown. I purchased the two I have at one of their store locations as they had some of the older stock on hand.

I appreciate the advice regarding the quick release. Thanks.

Cheers
Wayne

fietsbob

finally posted a picture in another thread. the bump up to a 52t chainring would a long ways to rolling faster,

on the cheap maybe you can find a 3rd bigger chainring and spacers and bolt it on the outside .
using the same holes that hold the 2nd one on..

got a triple then.