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Titanium Swift frame, anyone interested?

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Titanium Swift frame, anyone interested?

Old 04-16-15, 04:41 AM
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i hope the framesets of the rest of the guys reach them soon.
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Old 04-16-15, 10:42 AM
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I guess we all have our frames by now. A bonus to this whole project is that I got to meet Barry, who is a great guy and I get to meet Peter Reich, the man himself, humble as he is, today- when I drop off his Ti-goods.

I had a small hiccup in the assembly process> It's pretty boring, no pun intended, but I will tell you anyway:
I ordered bottle bosses on my down tube. The factory braised internal ones when they really should have used external ones like on the stem riser that some of you got. The problem : the seat tube did not extend far enough down into the seat tube. Easy solution would be to cut the seat tube but that would sacrifice some support and strength of the whole design..as it turns out I spent two days cutting the boss from inside and sanding the inside dimension to match that of the rest of the seat tube. Most of that time was spent fabricating a proper tool to do this as gently as possible.
See? I told you it was boring! So word to the wise be for warned be careful what you ask for, you might get it!
Okay live and learn, my new folder will be a sight to behold. Pictures soon.
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Old 04-16-15, 10:44 AM
  #278  
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ps. What Bottom Bracket are you all running? I know Jur is running a 109.5mm with no issues.
What size are the rest of you running and what brand, curious... Also, in respect to this fine build what is the lightest square taper bb on the market that will work with our frames?

thanks


Also, installed a Chris King Headset no problem, snug fit, pressed in with a vice.
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Old 04-16-15, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Pine Cone
It is a standard 53/39, but no, it doesn't quite fit... Do you know a source for larger chain rings that will fit a Shimano 105 5-bolt pattern 5700 series crankset? I wouldn't mind a 58 or 60 tooth, but I like the weight and quality of the Shimano 105's and Ultegra's.


Started today's build session by cutting the steerer tube on the fork down about 4 inches. After acquiring a range of potential cutting tools at my local Home Depot I ended up using a $15.85 tubing cutter (designed for cutting thin-walled metal conduit for electrical wiring). It worked great. Clean cut, perpendicular to the steerer, and almost no sharp edges to clean up. Well worth the expense.




Today's big dissapointment was that the front derailleur bracket on the frame is about 3-5mm too high in its lowest position so I have a potential issue with the Shimano Ultegra 6700 series derailler I planned to use. The bracket also seems to make the derailler sit at the wrong angle, with the rear of the derailler lower to the chainring vs. the front of the derailleur. I will see if a low-bracket SRAM clamp-on will work...


I planned to use a bottom-pull front derailleur and to do that I need a pulley which I don't have. The frame has the weld-on fitting for the pulley, but I didn't have one lying around in spare parts, so I have to acquire it before I can complete the build.
Brakes set up OK, the Tektro levers I chose don't have as long a pull as regular road levers, but they seem to be able to stop the bike. I chose Avid BB7 mechanical road disc brakes since I have had good luck with the standard BB7s on a couple of other bikes. Hydraulics seem to work better, but I hope to use this folder in far away places so I wanted brakes that I could find housing and cables for where ever I was.
Here is a look at what the build looks like at the end of today. Once I get the front derailler issues sorted out it will be rideable in about 20 minutes. Not totally sure of my shift lever positions, so I won't tape the bars until I am satisfied with how they are placed on the bars.


Seat tube angle may be a Bit Off from what the FD designers were expecting But.. since it's a braze on type you can insert wedges between the mount
and the Derailleur where it meets the Mount and rotate the FD a bit (clockwise I suppose a few degrees)

the pulleys from 3 speed bikes and roller cam brakes May do.. just needs a groove..
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Old 04-16-15, 03:22 PM
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My bike arrived this pm, looking forward to unpacking when I get home. My build skills are more rudimentary than others posting..I intend to work with a great folding bike store in Philadelphia (Trophy Bikes)..current thinking is to go single ring up front and ten speed in the back, interested in what BB people are using...fwiw i am going to use cantis for the build..I find they are the easiest to work on in hotel rooms when traveling with the bike...also going to use MKS quick release pedals for the same reason...r
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Old 04-16-15, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rjdennis
My bike arrived this pm, looking forward to unpacking when I get home. My build skills are more rudimentary than others posting..I intend to work with a great folding bike store in Philadelphia (Trophy Bikes)..current thinking is to go single ring up front and ten speed in the back, interested in what BB people are using...fwiw i am going to use cantis for the build..I find they are the easiest to work on in hotel rooms when traveling with the bike...also going to use MKS quick release pedals for the same reason...r
I am using the stock Shimano 105 crankset and bottom bracket, the Model 5700 older 10-speed version. No chainline issues with Shimano 9 or 10 speed XT disc brake hub. My frame has 135mm rear hub spacing, yours may have the 130mm spacing.
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Old 04-16-15, 05:08 PM
  #282  
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@Pine Cone... what front hub do you have? That is a very good-looking hub. I am looking for a disc brake hub.
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Old 04-16-15, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jur
@Pine Cone... what front hub do you have? That is a very good-looking hub. I am looking for a disc brake hub.
It is a Shimano XT FH-M755, 36 hole. Cambria Bicycle Outfitter has them for $US 17.99 which is even cheaper than I paid. They also have 32 hole for 4 cents cheaper...

Just got back from a 10 km shakedown ride. Bike works and rides great!




Here's a look at the typical paved roads around here, then throw in some dirt logging roads and gravel rails-to-trails. Big fat tires are you friends!

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Old 04-16-15, 10:14 PM
  #284  
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Great build! I am taken by the cable housings... white, plain plastic, or something more special?

And how's the frame size?
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Old 04-16-15, 10:19 PM
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I am looking at getting some titanium chainrings. I have previously bought a 42T and a 58T ring. I designed them to be turned over, so you get double mileage out of them. I put the 58T on my Brompton because I wanted a) looks and b) taller gearing. Anybody interested in a Ti chainring?
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Old 04-17-15, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jur
I am looking at getting some titanium chainrings. I have previously bought a 42T and a 58T ring. I designed them to be turned over, so you get double mileage out of them. I put the 58T on my Brompton because I wanted a) looks and b) taller gearing. Anybody interested in a Ti chainring?
are you having only 58t made, jur. i am only using a 53t/39t on my bike.
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Old 04-17-15, 09:51 AM
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Jur, (currently running a 55 tooth Campy Record, old style)

A Ti Chainring sounds great... everything titanium!
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Old 04-17-15, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jur
Anybody interested in a Ti chainring?
What's your projected cost for a 58t ring ?
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Old 04-17-15, 11:12 AM
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How about Ti teeth on a thick aluminum spider, Or Stainless Steel ? get lateral support from the thicker aluminum center..
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Old 04-17-15, 04:39 PM
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My previous prices paid were $105 and $80 for the 58t and 42t respectively. I rejected their 1st offer. The 58t I had made 4mm thick for added stiffness, the 42T is 3.2mm thick. There are no ramps and pins, so shifting may be hard, for technical reasons I never tried. The teeth are quite tall, singlespeed style. The chainring bolt recesses are both sides to enable them to be flipped.

I'll take a pic soon and post it.
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Old 04-17-15, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jur
I am looking at getting some titanium chainrings. I have previously bought a 42T and a 58T ring. I designed them to be turned over, so you get double mileage out of them. I put the 58T on my Brompton because I wanted a) looks and b) taller gearing. Anybody interested in a Ti chainring?
Are you going for less weight or longer life? Cause you could prolly do both for less if you had regular aluminum chainrings coated(Ti-Ni or something).
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Old 04-17-15, 05:48 PM
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Or just get them in 7075t6, which is what TA And Campag Use, amongst Others ... just spreading the wear surface to 58T should Help
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Old 04-17-15, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jur
Great build! I am taken by the cable housings... white, plain plastic, or something more special?

And how's the frame size?
Frame size is great. Love the longer top tube and stempost. Very comfy.

Did a few more tweeks and I think I'm close to a final build. The cable housing is Jagwire White Weave.


Component List:
Wheels -- Shimano XT M755 front and M756A rear disc brake hubs, front is silver, rear black, 36 holes. Black Sun Rhyno Lite 406 rims with black stainless steel spokes. Schwalbe Marathon 40-406 and 47-406 Marathon Plus tires with Q-tubes innertubes.

Drivetrain -- Shimano 105 53/39 crankset, model 5700 10-speed, SRAM PG 1050 11-26 10-speed cassette, Shimano Ultegra chain and front derailleur, Shimano XT 9-speed rear derailleur, Microshift flat bar shifters (front is friction, rear is indexed), Shimano PD A530 pedals. Jagwire Universal cables and housing. I chose the flatbar shifters over barend shifters to keep the shifters in a more protected location when folded.

Brakes -- Avid Road BB7 disc brakes, 160mm front rotor, 140mm rear rotor, Tektro Reverse brake levers. Jagwire Universal cables and housing.

Seat -- WTB Silverado Thinline,
Bike came with titanium stempost, bullhorn handlebars and seatpost





I really like how it rides. Today's minor problem was a slight whistle at speeds above 25 mph/40 kph. Sounded like it was from the front of the bike, but hard to tell. Might have been from my new helmet. Never had a bike whistle at me before...

I'm probably not interested in Ti chainrings, but let me ride the bike a bit more. I did find a 54-tooth ring lying around in my spare parts, but for now I'll stick with the 53 tooth with pins and ramps.
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Old 04-17-15, 10:53 PM
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Not for weight nor longevity (although longevity would be much better I expect), but just because.
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Old 04-18-15, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jur
Not for weight nor longevity (although longevity would be much better I expect), but just because.
i like the fact that it's "just because". cheers, jur! let me know when we should place the order.
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Old 04-20-15, 12:01 AM
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@Pine Cone: Really nice build you did.

I built mine up this weekend, swapped all the parts over. I think the finishing polish was better on my 1st one.

The quality is improved. They really nailed the seatpost alignment.

I am disappointed with the front derailer bracket. Too flexible. I made a spacer to improve the position but can't avoid the chain dragging on the cage.
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Old 04-20-15, 12:05 AM
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Im going compromise by using a bigger inner chainring. Currently I have 42t there.
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Old 04-20-15, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jur
Im going compromise by using a bigger inner chainring. Currently I have 42t there.
same problem with mine. on the inner chain ring, the chain drags on the FD cage on gears 5 to 1.

what size chain ring are you planning to use, jur? 44t?
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Old 04-20-15, 02:17 PM
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I haven't worked it out yet. I need to look at the clearance needed. A 44t ring will have about 4mm extra radius. That will be better.

But in your case, a spacer would improve matters enough I think. You have 53/39t? That should work. Post a close-up of the derailer so I can see?
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Old 04-20-15, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jur
@Pine Cone: Really nice build you did.

I built mine up this weekend, swapped all the parts over. They really nailed the seatpost alignment.

I am disappointed with the front derailer bracket. Too flexible. I made a spacer to improve the position but can't avoid the chain dragging on the cage.
Thanks for the build comments. I have done some minor safety and performance tweeks since, adding lights, reflective tape and taking more links out of the chain, but it is essentially unchanged. I did a test fold yesterday and the seatpost alignment for the fold is perfect.

As for the front deraileur, try different brands or one designed for a triple chainring. I had chain drag with the SRAM but not the Shimano. A triple chainring front derailleur probably goes in further as well as being a bit deeper. You could always use a Dremel or a die grinder to alter the cage shape a little. I'd look through my spares to see if I had an old mountain bike or road triple derailleur before messing with larger chainrings, but then it is pretty hilly around here...
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