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Strongest 4mm allen wrench? Have multiple stuck skate axles

Old 09-22-21, 08:25 PM
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Strongest 4mm allen wrench? Have multiple stuck skate axles

I was trying to remove the axles from one of my skates and the bolt will literally not turn, in-fact, none of the three bolts will, which is super frustrating. I broke off one allen wrench already and my second one has started to spiral making that pretty worthless

Is there a brand that makes solid hex wrenches? I just need a 4mm. I even tried placing the skate frames in the fridge and alternatively used a space heater to warm the frame and axles up. They use a blue colored threadlocker which is probably the culprit. If it starts to strip will have to find a place to drill it out.

Also taking any ideas to help without the need for drilling
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Old 09-22-21, 08:30 PM
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Try a hair dryer on the threadlocker.
I assume there's a lots of adjacent plastic...so a heat gun or torch would be a no-go. It's worth a shot. At least it's not red locktite.
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Old 09-22-21, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by EJ123 View Post
I was trying to remove the axles from one of my skates and the bolt will literally not turn, in-fact, none of the three bolts will, which is super frustrating. I broke off one allen wrench already and my second one has started to spiral making that pretty worthless

Is there a brand that makes solid hex wrenches? I just need a 4mm. I even tried placing the skate frames in the fridge and alternatively used a space heater to warm the frame and axles up. They use a blue colored threadlocker which is probably the culprit. If it starts to strip will have to find a place to drill it out.

Also taking any ideas to help without the need for drilling
you might try a soldering iron transfer heat to each bolt. and, auto stores have ratchet driven allen wrenches. those are stout
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Old 09-22-21, 09:44 PM
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Yup have heated up many stubborn bolts with a simple torch. Slightly softeners the metal just enough to break it lose. And burns out the crud blocking up the threads. Just don’t heat it up too much I know I have done that …
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Old 09-22-21, 10:02 PM
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maybe one of those butane pencil torches.
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Old 09-22-21, 10:28 PM
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Sigh, the sucker is now stripped

Where do I find a machinist or a place that can drill?
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Old 09-22-21, 10:50 PM
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can you take a picture?
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Old 09-22-21, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by thook View Post
can you take a picture?
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Old 09-22-21, 11:02 PM
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You can get an extractor at most hardware stores.
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Old 09-22-21, 11:08 PM
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Like a Grabit #1 size.

Last edited by noisebeam; 09-22-21 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 09-22-21, 11:09 PM
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or, get...if you don't have any....sacrificial allen keys. used one slightly bigger than the original size. jam it in there and jb weld it. cut it off short enough to grab with vice grips and have a go at it. this is akin to what i've seen done in auto shops when a bolt head strips or breaks off and they weld something to it to grab and get leverage with. make sense?
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Old 09-22-21, 11:19 PM
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It's tough because the axle actually screws into the frame, and have no idea how stuck it is since its production. This probably needs an insane amount of torque lol

Here's the other frame in which all 3 axles came off with only mild difficulty

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Old 09-22-21, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by thook View Post
or, get...if you don't have any....sacrificial allen keys. used one slightly bigger than the original size. jam it in there and jb weld it. cut it off short enough to grab with vice grips and have a go at it. this is akin to what i've seen done in auto shops when a bolt head strips or breaks off and they weld something to it to grab and get leverage with. make sense?
I like it
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Old 09-23-21, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by noisebeam View Post
You can get an extractor at most hardware stores.
Probably the best solution here... as it will give something to grab and hold onto the bolt. I would find someone with a drill press to make the pilot hole.

I see "locktite" was used initially... in which case, heat will be required. You might try a penetrating oil like "Kroil."

For the record, the strongest hex drivers I can think of come on 3/8s drive sockets... But in this case, it appears that the bolt itself was made of a soft metal.
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Old 09-23-21, 08:28 AM
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Old 09-23-21, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by genec View Post
Probably the best solution here... as it will give something to grab and hold onto the bolt. I would find someone with a drill press to make the pilot hole.

I see "locktite" was used initially... in which case, heat will be required. You might try a penetrating oil like "Kroil."

For the record, the strongest hex drivers I can think of come on 3/8s drive sockets... But in this case, it appears that the bolt itself was made of a soft metal.
As long as the item with the bolt in it is secured, clamped or otherwise held down a power hand drill with reverse capability works fine. I've done this multiple times on a range of sizes including 4mm. I'd also heat the locktite and apply some penetrating oil to be sure.
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Old 09-23-21, 08:46 AM
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I realize it's a little late, but I would have tried an impact driver on reverse when the bolt head was still undamaged.
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Old 09-23-21, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by thook View Post
or, get...if you don't have any....sacrificial allen keys. used one slightly bigger than the original size. jam it in there and jb weld it. cut it off short enough to grab with vice grips and have a go at it. this is akin to what i've seen done in auto shops when a bolt head strips or breaks off and they weld something to it to grab and get leverage with. make sense?
This.

Or maybe a best-fit Torx driver.

If the OP is willing to sacrifice that wheel, grind a couple of wrench flats on the diameter once the wheel is cut(?) off. Or just good old Vise-grips.
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Old 09-23-21, 10:04 AM
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PRICELESS
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Old 09-23-21, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by J.Higgins View Post
those look good! the longer shafted extractors can break easily enough, but those shorter ones look stout = better torque transfer! plus, you could slide a socket over the end of one of them (vs the drill it's designed for) and use a ratchet to drive the broken bolt out
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Old 09-23-21, 10:33 AM
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Are the wheels sacrificial?

You may be able to cut the wheel off, allowing you to grip the remaining bolt with vise grips.
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Old 09-23-21, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by thook View Post
those look good! the longer shafted extractors can break easily enough, but those shorter ones look stout = better torque transfer! plus, you could slide a socket over the end of one of them (vs the drill it's designed for) and use a ratchet to drive the broken bolt out
You can use an adjustable wrench with any hex shape... including the original hex mentioned. I do this often for "better torque transfer."
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Old 09-23-21, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by genec View Post
You can use an adjustable wrench with any hex shape... including the original hex mentioned. I do this often for "better torque transfer."
right. i use one to drive taps since i don't have a proper handle
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Old 09-23-21, 11:03 AM
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I have seen machine shops with boxes of old and new extractors. It's as if they consider them almost one time use so they order certain sizes in bulk. Looks like it was your turn for a challenge. Often little things like stubborn bolts can be much humbling... Ha
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Old 09-23-21, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
Are the wheels sacrificial?

You may be able to cut the wheel off, allowing you to grip the remaining bolt with vise grips.
Wheels are definitely sacrificial. I really just wanted to take the skate boot off to put on another set, but I can't remove the boot from the frame because the mounting bolt are directly under the wheel If I could sacrifice the wheel, I don't care about the frame per-se and wheels are expendable.


Do they make hex wrenches that could fit into this space to access the mounting bolt?
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