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Help Me Wire My Bathroom Exhaust Fan

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Old 11-14-11, 11:58 AM
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Help Me Wire My Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Okay, okay, if anyone else were asking this I would say "just hire an electrician." But, let me say that I am not new to home electrical work--I have installed more ceiling fans, lights, switches, dishwashers, etc than I can count, but this bathroom exhaust fan is a tad different/new to me. Again, I am not new to home electricity. Now that I got that out of the way...

I removed the old exhaust fan in the bathroom and tossed it, since the wiring diagram which came with the new fan is extremely simple to follow. Except, the wiring to the fan in my home is not the same as the diagram. Oh-oh.

The wiring diagram shows the red wire from the switch going to the blue wire of the fan, the white wires going together, the blacks going to their respective places, and the grounds, well, grounded. See, easy.

However, what I have in my ceiling is different. I have two runs of 12/2 wire coming from the switch. I know this isn't weird by any means, but I don't have a diagram for it.

I have one run of 12/2 that has white, black, and ground, of course, since it's, well, 12-2 wire. The other run of 12/2 wire has white, black, and ground, except the white has been taped near the end to appear like another black wire. Again, not weird in this case.

My question is simply, "How do I hook up the wires?" Like I said, I didn't take note of how the old fan was wired because I had a wiring diagram, or so I thought.

I should also say that the switch on the wall has three switches that were in use (one for the fan, one for the light, and one for the night light). The unit I am putting in only has a fan and light, though. I just assume one of the switches on the wall will go unused, but nothing there needs to be changed.

I did a Google search really late last night and found my answer, I think, but I have been searching again for the better part of my day and I can't find the answer a second time!
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Old 11-14-11, 12:01 PM
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Old 11-14-11, 12:06 PM
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voltage tester...
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Old 11-14-11, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RaleighSport View Post
voltage tester...
But in the old fan, all the wires were connected to something and/or each other. So, I am not sure what I would do with the voltage tester? I did mark which run of wire went to the fan motor (the one with the "coded hot" [e.g. taped white] wire), so that isn't an issue if that is what you were getting at.
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Old 11-14-11, 12:13 PM
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Does that extra wire lead to an inline vent fan? How far away from the outside vent is this bathroom?

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Old 11-14-11, 12:14 PM
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yeah but at least with the tester you'll know what lead is producing what, so hopefully you'll be able to just get'er done? This is one of those things where I could probably help if I was there, but trying to visualize it isn't working.
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Old 11-14-11, 01:18 PM
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On the new fan/light, are you going to have the light come on separate from the fan?
Or will they both come on together?

The fan/light sounds like it has a hot wire for the fan and a hot for the light and a common for both, then the ground.

Figure which is the hot and common on one of the wires and test out the fan and light with that. I'm guessing the blue and white on the fan are for the hot leads and the black is the common. I could be wrong though.

Good luck however you figure it out.
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Old 11-14-11, 01:18 PM
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Just don't hook it up wrong...if you get it out of phase, it will cause the generator at the power station to self destruct.
you wouldn't want to cause this

now would you?
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Old 11-14-11, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by gitarzan View Post
Does that extra wire lead to an inline vent fan? How far away from the outside vent is this bathroom?
No, all wires of both runs of 12-2 connected to the fan/light unit (6 wires total connecting to the unit). On the old fan, I remember all the white wires went together, one black went to the fan motor outlet (the two-prong outlet inside the unit housing), the other black went to the light/nightlight outlets, and the grounds all tied together, but I don't remember where the white-with-black-tape wire went. Apparently, if this were new construction, then there would be one run of 12-3 wire, with the red wire connecting to the blue wire and I'd have had this done in my sleep?

The fan venting goes straight to the top of the house, so the vent to the outside is about 7-8 feet from the fan itself.

Originally Posted by RaleighSport View Post
yeah but at least with the tester you'll know what lead is producing what, so hopefully you'll be able to just get'er done? This is one of those things where I could probably help if I was there, but trying to visualize it isn't working.
I see what you are saying now, but one of the white wires is already coded hot for me with black tape, eh?

This is what I have to work with:



And the wiring diagram:

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Old 11-14-11, 01:32 PM
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LoL you won't like this, but I'm back on the volt tester especially if you already have a double switch installed... turn off the heater switch and I bet you'll know which one to wire where by testing if it's live or not.. I personally keep a small clamp light and a small outlet box for when I'm dealing with this kind of thing in the rafters of my barn! handy to see if the light comes on or not from the ground at the breaker, anyways have you checked to see if back at the switch if it has the same "marking" system?
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Old 11-14-11, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by x136 View Post
Okay, this is a lot simpler than you're making it.

Both wires are connected to the switches in a dipolar array, but, as is rather standard these days in situations like this, they're being run through a quantum oscillator. Unfortunately, these are sometimes installed out of phase and out of spec, so you should check it while you're up there. Be sure it's installed at a 45 degree angle to the cable run, and that it's situated no more than 3.2 meters from the switch, as the himarion signal will be too degraded to be useful beyond that point. Got it?

Okay, now, be sure the thermal actuation unit in your new fan is active, functioning, and primed. You say you've done this before, so I won't go into detail there; it's really elementary stuff after all. Now connect the black and white cable to the TAU, then run the TAU wiring to the blue wire on the fan, but be sure to reverse the polarity when you do so.

Now, where you seem to be hung up is the wire with two black lines. The chowderhead who installed this system initially used regular Romex instead of the proper specific cabling for this application, which is, as you've noticed, confusing. This is the wiring for the parallel amplitude bifurcation pulse. Obviously, you want this system to run for more than a week, so connecting this is absolutely imperative. Refer to the Conshohocken Matrix (it may be labeled "residue decalcification matrix") in the manual you received with the unit, and connect the wiring as it recommends for your application. Do not, under any circumstances, attach that ground wire to anything! It shouldn't be there, and its connection could easily start a fire.

Double check all your connections, install that puppy up in the ceiling, and you're good to go.
Aaah, the Conshohocken Matrix.
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Old 11-14-11, 01:57 PM
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Now you prepare that exhausst fan with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads.
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Old 11-14-11, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by x136 View Post
Okay, this is a lot simpler than you're making it.

Both wires are connected to the switches in a dipolar array, but, as is rather standard these days in situations like this, they're being run through a quantum oscillator. Unfortunately, these are sometimes installed out of phase and out of spec, so you should check it while you're up there. Be sure it's installed at a 45 degree angle to the cable run, and that it's situated no more than 3.2 meters from the switch, as the himarion signal will be too degraded to be useful beyond that point. Got it?

Okay, now, be sure the thermal actuation unit in your new fan is active, functioning, and primed. You say you've done this before, so I won't go into detail there; it's really elementary stuff after all. Now connect the black and white cable to the TAU, then run the TAU wiring to the blue wire on the fan, but be sure to reverse the polarity when you do so.

Now, where you seem to be hung up is the wire with two black lines. The chowderhead who installed this system initially used regular Romex instead of the proper specific cabling for this application, which is, as you've noticed, confusing. This is the wiring for the parallel amplitude bifurcation pulse. Obviously, you want this system to run for more than a week, so connecting this is absolutely imperative. Refer to the Conshohocken Matrix (it may be labeled "residue decalcification matrix") in the manual you received with the unit, and connect the wiring as it recommends for your application. Do not, under any circumstances, attach that ground wire to anything! It shouldn't be there, and its connection could easily start a fire.

Double check all your connections, install that puppy up in the ceiling, and you're good to go.
Where does the nafarian fabernaculator go?
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Old 11-14-11, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by x136 View Post
Okay, this is a lot simpler than you're making it.

Both wires are connected to the switches in a dipolar array, but, as is rather standard these days in situations like this, they're being run through a quantum oscillator. Unfortunately, these are sometimes installed out of phase and out of spec, so you should check it while you're up there. Be sure it's installed at a 45 degree angle to the cable run, and that it's situated no more than 3.2 meters from the switch, as the himarion signal will be too degraded to be useful beyond that point. Got it?

Okay, now, be sure the thermal actuation unit in your new fan is active, functioning, and primed. You say you've done this before, so I won't go into detail there; it's really elementary stuff after all. Now connect the black and white cable to the TAU, then run the TAU wiring to the blue wire on the fan, but be sure to reverse the polarity when you do so.

Now, where you seem to be hung up is the wire with two black lines. The chowderhead who installed this system initially used regular Romex instead of the proper specific cabling for this application, which is, as you've noticed, confusing. This is the wiring for the parallel amplitude bifurcation pulse. Obviously, you want this system to run for more than a week, so connecting this is absolutely imperative. Refer to the Conshohocken Matrix (it may be labeled "residue decalcification matrix") in the manual you received with the unit, and connect the wiring as it recommends for your application. Do not, under any circumstances, attach that ground wire to anything! It shouldn't be there, and its connection could easily start a fire.

Double check all your connections, install that puppy up in the ceiling, and you're good to go.
I'm confused. Why wouldn't you want to start a fire?
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Old 11-14-11, 02:23 PM
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Can't you just make it easy on yourself and keep using the...

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Old 11-14-11, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by StupidlyBrave View Post
I'm confused. Why wouldn't you want to start a fire?
The fire would mask the odiferousness of your farts far better than a fan would.
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Old 11-14-11, 02:32 PM
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If you do hook things up backwards and get smoke, remember to try and put the smoke back in the wires as if you were working on a MG. The wires need the smoke to maintain their conductivity, and your fan wont work without the proper conductivity.
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Old 11-14-11, 02:37 PM
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Meth labs are sensitive to static lectricity.

Jus sayin'
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Old 11-14-11, 02:51 PM
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We haven't heard from him in an hour and a half. I wonder if he burned his house down.
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Old 11-14-11, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbenaugust View Post
We haven't heard from him in an hour and a half. I wonder if he burned his house down.
Nah, I have a day job. I wouldn't be getting to this project for another several hours at best anyway. I have to convince two kids under 4 years old that daddy is in the attic for work, not jumping into the pile of insulation fun time.
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Old 11-14-11, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SonataInFSharp View Post
Nah, I have a day job. I wouldn't be getting to this project for another several hours at best anyway. I have to convince two kids under 4 years old that daddy is in the attic for work, not jumping into the pile of insulation fun time.
Sounds like my world, but we only have one... for now.
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Old 11-14-11, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SonataInFSharp View Post
Nah, I have a day job. I wouldn't be getting to this project for another several hours at best anyway. I have to convince two kids under 4 years old that daddy is in the attic for work, not jumping into the pile of insulation fun time.
Vermiculite? Have you tested for asbestos?
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Old 11-14-11, 03:40 PM
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Just run an extension cord to the high voltage section of the transformer up on the utility pole. It'll only be 880 volts.
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Old 11-14-11, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by skijor View Post
Vermiculite? Have you tested for asbestos?
I was thinking "should the toddlers be up in the insulation?", but hey, it's good for their immune system or something, right?
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Old 11-14-11, 05:14 PM
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Remove the cover plate from the switches if you see 4 or more black wires spliced together and the white wire spliced together except for the one taged black then all you have to do is splice the white wire of the fan with the white wire of the romex, then splice the black wire of the romex with the fan, then splice the black wire of the other romex with the light, cap off the white wire that has been taged black this one goes to the 3rd switch. the installer of this used 2 runs of 12/2 romex because he needed the 3rd switch leg for the night light, you cannot do this with 12/3 and he probably figured there was no point in buying a full coil of 12/4 for such a short run.
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