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-   -   Can this dropout be salvaged? (https://www.bikeforums.net/framebuilders/1145188-can-dropout-salvaged.html)

Dan Burkhart 05-26-18 12:15 PM

Can this dropout be salvaged?
 
This is a late 90s Canadian made Peugeot. I was in the midst of a teardown to prep the frame for a rebuild when I discovered a broken right dropout.

http://i63.tinypic.com/12337ur.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/6dwt4h.jpg

Not sure the frame is worth putting new dropouts in, but if this break is repairable, I would be willing to give it a shot. What are my chances?

JohnDThompson 05-26-18 12:41 PM

The quick fix would be to grind out the crack into a nice clean "V" profile trench and TIG weld it together. If done skillfully, it would be hardly noticeable under paint.

Otherwise, dropouts can be replaced. No guarantees on ease of finding one that matches the other side, if that's important to you.

unterhausen 05-26-18 02:27 PM

John, would that have been a Japanese dropout? Not familiar with those bikes at all

Dan Burkhart 05-26-18 04:52 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 20361220)
The quick fix would be to grind out the crack into a nice clean "V" profile trench and TIG weld it together. If done skillfully, it would be hardly noticeable under paint.

Otherwise, dropouts can be replaced. No guarantees on ease of finding one that matches the other side, if that's important to you.

Thank you. Were any of these type of dropouts cast rather than forged, and how would I know the difference? Would welding even be an option if it was cast?

JohnDThompson 05-26-18 06:34 PM

Your dropout appears to be a forged dropout, possibly a SunTour GT:

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...or/suntour.jpg

Cast dropouts usually have external sockets for the stays rather than a tab that inserts into a slot in the stay. I've never tried welding a cast dropout, but I suppose success would depend on the material.

calstar 05-26-18 06:45 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 20361220)
The quick fix would be to grind out the crack into a nice clean "V" profile trench and TIG weld it together. If done skillfully, it would be hardly noticeable under paint.

Totally agree, an easy fix to tig ; I've brazed a couple of cracked rear dropouts(one crack similar to this one, the other at the hanger), pretty easy and no issues post repair.

Brian

dsaul 05-27-18 05:49 AM

I would't hesitate to TIG that back together.

Dan Burkhart 05-27-18 09:02 AM

Thanks for the input everyone. I'll cart it off to a welding shop to see if I can get 'er done. I don't think it's a job for my little hobby stick welder and my very limited skills with it.

Dan Burkhart 05-30-18 02:06 PM

I found a local welder to fix me up.
Let the build begin.

http://i66.tinypic.com/317edsm.jpg

Dan Burkhart 06-01-18 10:29 AM

So, all good. Build complete and ready for delivery. Thanks to all for the input.
http://i65.tinypic.com/33jtw6o.jpg

http://i63.tinypic.com/2yplv13.jpg

CliffordK 06-01-18 11:28 AM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 20361606)
Cast dropouts usually have external sockets for the stays rather than a tab that inserts into a slot in the stay. I've never tried welding a cast dropout, but I suppose success would depend on the material.

Cast Iron is supposed to be tough to weld, but not impossible.

However, I'd imagine the new dropouts one can buy are cast steel, or cast stainless steel, and should be weldable. I would think that many are designed to be either welded or brazed for assembly.

Aluminum might be different. Vintage cast aluminum could be an issue. New cast (or extruded) aluminum would all be intended to be welded.

....

Glad the weld and the project turned out well.


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