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Masking Lugs?
Okay, so how in the heck am I supposed to mask around a lug? I painted the head tube and now need to mask it. I want the mask line to be on the head tube itself so the full lug will be the contrasting color. I tried and failed at blue painters tape, cutting around the edge of lug with an Xacto, and using electrical tape cut into 1/4" strips so it will curve more easily. Of the two method the electrical tape seems the most viable but it's hard to get that stuff into a tight radius. Open (desperate) for suggestions.
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Bob Dively liquid masking film. Spray it on the lug with an air brush and gently trim with a razor knife (much easier than trying to slice through painters tape). Peel of the mask where you want to paint. You can also use a brush to apply, and if you are careful you may not have to cut the excess.
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Thanks for the masking fluid tip. Couldn't find the Bob Dively stuff but got this stuff local. Says it's for paper so fingers crossed it will work.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7f288e14dd.png |
Try some fine line tape. You can usually get it at the auto parts store. The 1/8" stuff curves pretty well and then you can use larger masking tape to cover the rest.
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The question as to how much of the lug is masked is an old one. Some say that lug lining was invented to hide the masking "issues":)
I'm happy with the panel paint also coming up the lug's wall. This is pretty straight forward to mask, tape and trim. Tedious but easy. A couple of tips. Touching up paint (with a detail brush) after pulling off masking is legit. And tooth paste is a cheap masking agent. But like many skills practice make better results. Andy |
Frisket film or Automobile repair film are worth a look.
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Well folks, after realizing that the masking film I bought is questionable for solvent based paints I went the masking tape route. Took me way TOO LONG but it's done. Using 3M automotive green tape because that stuff won't release from solvent. Hope it doesn't pull off any paint when peeling time comes.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e8674e5e0e.jpg |
Nice tape job. I find the 3m auto paint to be the best, it cuts relatively easy with a sharp blade and comes in many widths for doing contours. Assuming your first color had enough time to flash it won't peel up the paint. I'm looking forward to seeing this complete.
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Thanks for the compliment. I'll find out today one way or another.
I need to get color and clear on this beastie TODAY. This is the third day for the primer and I'm pushing my luck already regarding the critical recoat window closing. Unfortunately, the auto paint stores in my area are all closed today so I can't pick up the paint and reducer I wanted. Going to have to gamble and use what I have which means one brand reducer with another brand paint. The basecoat I have is way old too, although I don't think that stuff ages out the way catalyzed paints do. |
Originally Posted by Nessism
(Post 20675908)
I need to get color and clear on this beastie TODAY. This is the third day for the primer and I'm pushing my luck already regarding the critical recoat window closing. Unfortunately, the auto paint stores in my area are all closed today so I can't pick up the paint and reducer I wanted. Going to have to gamble and use what I have which means one brand reducer with another brand paint. The basecoat I have is way old too, although I don't think that stuff ages out the way catalyzed paints do.
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Originally Posted by Doug Fattic
(Post 20676077)
Not if you use a sealer. I almost always use a sealer between the primer and the color coat to promote better adhesion and provide a consistent undercoat color. The House of Kolor series of primer/sealers that come in the primary colors + black and white and silver flake and can be mixed to get almost any color are perfect for this purpose.
When spraying the color today I could see the white show through from the overspray on the head tube compared to the rest of the frame. I suppose if the frame was all white it wouldn't have been an issue but it was. Used one more coat of base on those areas and the color uniformity seems okay now. |
Just so you know the H of K primers can also be used as a sealer so you don't have to buy 2 separate products. When used as a sealer it is reduced more and the window of time between spraying the sealer and the color coats has to be strictly controlled to get maximum adhesion.
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Originally Posted by Doug Fattic
(Post 20676089)
Just so you know the H of K primers can also be used as a sealer so you don't have to buy 2 separate products. When used as a sealer it is reduced more and the window of time between spraying the sealer and the color coats has to be strictly controlled to get maximum adhesion.
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Color sanding next followed by accents and lettering, followed by more clear. Not to proud of the headtube masking but it is what it is.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...98a116e39c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d11920f682.jpg |
If you have one of those fluid writer pens (kemper) and a steady hand you can sharpen up those edges. Looks like you laid a nice coat of clear down in those photos!
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That looks great! You need to do a painting series! I really shouldn't ask for that. I'm using all my willpower to NOT jump down the painting rabbit hole!
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Originally Posted by 8aaron8
(Post 20676831)
If you have one of those fluid writer pens (kemper) and a steady hand you can sharpen up those edges. Looks like you laid a nice coat of clear down in those photos!
I used House of Kolor USC01 Kosmic Klear and hosed it on pretty thick. It's pretty run resistant which is good since if you want to achieve a smooth finish you need to encroach on the knife edge between smooth flow out and runs. Next question is what color for the lettering and the accent stripes bordering the white panel? Noticed that a lot of builders use yellow lettering but I would like to change it up a little... |
Metallic silver would be my choice.
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...316587486c.jpg
This question of whether to mask at the crease of the shoreline so the whole lug including its edges is the same color or whether the lug wall should be the same color as the head tube comes up for discussion on various bicycle forums from time to time. Those that are not painters discuss which method method they think looks better without a full understanding of what kind of complications are involved to get a professional look. As a painter I can get a much better result masking at the top of the lug wall instead of in the valley (which has no natural edge). When I’ve looked at the results of my professional colleagues that try to make the color transition in the valley, I usually see the line is a bit rough. Other inconsistencies I find unattractive are visible knife marks left over from trimming masking tape and – depending on the kind of paint – the 2 paint layers are at a visibly different height. And if one is using Fineline masking tape, as it turns a corner it can buckle a little and a bit of over spray can get underneath the tape. Those that only look at the frame from a distance may not notice but these inconsistencies scream at me. Masking at the lug edge is much easier to get a clean crisp transition as well as touch up damage control. Joe Bell uses a lug lining tool so the color transition is in the middle of the cliff between the outside of the lug and the surface of the head tube. The color in the tool is the same as the head tube color. This gives a nice even effect because it covers the jagged masking. However this method can’t be used with every type of paint. And this color change half way between the traditional edges is not my personal preference. I like it fine if it is a 3rd color lug lining. |
Threw in the towel on the contrasting color head tube and covered up the white with primer this weekend. I'll base coat it with red before final clear coat on the frame. Guess I just lost patients with myself trying to get the masking lines suitable crisp. I was able to get some lettering on the seat tube. It's not properly centered in the white panel because I didn't plan properly considering the bottle boss. Good enough though. Part of the lettering will be covered up by the bottle cage anyway so there is that...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...aa975ee4c2.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...860de0cb86.jpg |
No one will know of the effort that didn't work out. No regrets or guilt needed. Andy
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Blow off work and take a 2000 mile road trip to Niles, Michigan and we will get crisp red/white paint lines on your head tube - just not where you originally wanted them :). I'm just off of !-80 (the Indiana toll road). Of course you might have to sand another frame or 2 so I don't get behind schedule.
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Next time I'm in Michigan Doug you can expect a visit!
...in the meantime the frame is basically done. I'll get some photos up later today (hopefully). I have less than 1/2 ounce of red and white (in reduced form) leftover, and my clear is gone. Cutting it close! Painting into the night on Sunday. Gotta love So. Calif. weather! It was getting cold for painting though - about 65F. I sprayed the clear dry over the lettering because I didn't want the white basecoat to run (I sprayed it about 1.5 hours earlier). Problem with dry clear is orange peel city though. Subsequent coats went on wetter and the orange peel started to blend away. I was down to the last few ounces of clear and trying to decide if I dared to try one more coat. Using a flashlight to check the frame (it was getting dark) when I saw a spec on the side of top tube (frame upside down)...a BUG! Rotating the frame, top tube up now, revealed track city! A very energetic bug! Dug the critter off the frame and loaded up the remaining clear. Hosed it on, heavy over the tracks, and was able to just squeak by without running out. Checked the frame this morning and it looks like most of the tracking has blended away. I might have to do a light cut and polish but pretty sure it will be okay. Wow! Never a dull moment! |
Better photos to be taken over the weekend when the frame can be taken outside in natural light. These should give you guys the idea though.
The bug tracks blended out pretty well (thank goodness). Gotta figure out the head badge next. Hopefully that will add a smig more contrast. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8079308663.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5fc3571172.jpg |
I did something pretty stupid and stripped the frame. Just didn't love it. For one thing it looks too much like one of my other frames and I wanted something different. Anyway, here it is in all it's glory.
The clear flowed out super smooth, but I did get a little buildup on a couple of lug edges. Can't complain too much though all things considering. The dark stripes are black/blue pearl; looks black unless the light hits it the right way and the lettering is painted as well so everything is pretty smooth. Anyway, since everyone enjoys photos hope you guys don't mind my narcissistic commiseration. . https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4872/...a060f70c_b.jpg P1040194 by nessism, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7817/...33ce929f_b.jpg P1040196 by nessism, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4831/...3738b55d_b.jpg P1040199 by nessism, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4840/...a873a646_b.jpg P1040201 by nessism, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7905/...9660eacf_b.jpg P1040204 by nessism, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7806/...cb23ba91_b.jpg P1040206 by nessism, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4805/...0c51e2f6_b.jpg P1040208 by nessism, on Flickr |
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