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Seat stay caps

Old 03-07-19, 08:16 PM
  #1  
unterhausen
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Seat stay caps

I decided to go with flat stainless steel caps on the frame I'm building right now. That pretty much means I had to use nickle silver to attach them, because brazing the lugs to the stays with silver would be a little tenuous if the caps were put on with silver. Nickle silver on stainless wets out, as you can see in my pics, but I have always had a little trouble with it on stainless. Nickle silver has a little bit higher melting temp than LFB, but they are very similar. I'm fairly happy with how it came out. I could have been a little more careful on the part above the stay. I didn't want to mess around cleaning up with the torch on the stainless. Kinda wish I had a belt grinder though. First side is almost filed, took about 15 minutes, but I didn't take a pic yet.

MVIMG_20190307_152033278 by unterhausen, on Flickr
MVIMG_20190307_152649931 by unterhausen, on Flickr

IMG_20190307_152654717 by unterhausen, on Flickr

MVIMG_20190307_184802960 by unterhausen, on Flickr

MVIMG_20190307_184833101 by unterhausen, on Flickr

Last edited by unterhausen; 03-07-19 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 03-07-19, 08:21 PM
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I was thinking about just using steel, but I didn't have any. They used to sell seatstay caps, but I only had one, so I traced it onto the stainless and cut it with a wheel on the dremel. The stainless goes through hacksaw blades like crazy. It also wiped out my cutoff blade on the dremel.

As you can see, I just cut them a little big. It really doesn't take all that long to file them down.

I need a little more practice with nickle silver and stainless to be really happy with it. It's easy to overheat the stainless at the temperature where nickle silver flows. I got a lot more comfortable while doing these caps, so I'm going to attach the stays with nickle silver. When I was at Trek, we used nickle silver where any sane person would have used LFB. I think I developed a slight sensitivity to it there, so I don't use it much.

Last edited by unterhausen; 03-07-19 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 03-08-19, 09:13 AM
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Not sure what kind of belt sander you are referring to but I use one similar to this

https://www.amazon.com/Bandfile-Sand.../dp/B005XFUTC6

Takes 1/2 inch belts in a variety of grits. Works good
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Old 03-08-19, 09:27 AM
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unterhausen
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belt grinder https://www.kalamazooind.com/product...-belt-grinder/
A lot of people DIY a 3 wheel version, which seems more useful.
I have a pneumatic handheld belt sander, but I wouldn't really want to use it on this.
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Old 03-08-19, 09:32 AM
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I have a Kalamazoo 1x42 belt sander. I use it a lot and in a dream shop it would be a 2" wide version. I also would have a second with a coarser grit then the 80 I usually run.

But for SS cap plates I use a bench grinder to remove the bulk of the extra plate first. Andy
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Old 03-08-19, 12:10 PM
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I'm sticking with files right now. The newer nicholson green label files seem to be fairly close to their old MUSA quality. I got the caps shaped to my satisfaction, going to braze the stays on in a bit
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Old 03-08-19, 12:31 PM
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oh, and if anyone wants to post their seat stay cap pics, please do
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Old 03-08-19, 12:46 PM
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For this frame, I made the caps out of a piece to the top tube scrap.











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Old 03-08-19, 02:01 PM
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Thanks John. I thought about doing that style, Was thinking about using a stainless tube for the cap. For some reason, flat caps just appealed to me on this build. But maybe the next one will have Proteus style fastback, who knows?
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Old 03-08-19, 03:48 PM
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This is what I've been working on lately. Kind of got caught between a fluted classic and a fast back (sounds like a bad vacation marriage). The concave section is a piece of tube brassed on. The stay was then silvered on the lug which was brassed to make then silvered for the joint. Andy
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