Water bottle boss question
#1
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Water bottle boss question
As a newbie I am starting to practice with braze-ons on an old frame before going to my new one.
When using a reinforcement, I like the look!, do you apply the silver only at the point where the boss meets the reinforcement or is it necessary to apply at the edge of the reinforcement?
Thanks!
When using a reinforcement, I like the look!, do you apply the silver only at the point where the boss meets the reinforcement or is it necessary to apply at the edge of the reinforcement?
Thanks!
#2
Newbie
Apply it to where the boss meets the reinforcement, you can then pull the silver to the edges of the reinforcement plate. Be careful not to overflow this joint as those reinforcement plates are hard to clean up.
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#3
framebuilder
Tom here are a couple of suggestions when you braze on wattle bottle bosses with reinforcements. It is easy to bump the reinforcement with your silver and knock it a bit crooked. It can help to figure out how to steady your silver holding hand so you can hit the bullseye and put it right by the water bottle boss like Aaron said. Not only does this help you place it exactly where you want but also having your hand steady makes it easier to place just the right amount so it doesn't overflow the reinforcement edges. The silver will automatically go from the center boss to the reinforcement edges. It can be very difficult to get just the right amount so the shorelines of the reinforcement are crisp but at the same time there is enough silver between the threaded boss and the reinforcement so there is a little radius there. The precision required is why beginners can have a challenging time with reinforcements.
I recommend you have a visible center scribe line when you start to braze. Not only does this help you place the reinforcements on center but if you have a shaky hand and bump it off center, you can use something like a screwdriver to push it back on center. Oh and make sure the curve of the reinforcement exactly matches the radius of the tube.
I recommend you have a visible center scribe line when you start to braze. Not only does this help you place the reinforcements on center but if you have a shaky hand and bump it off center, you can use something like a screwdriver to push it back on center. Oh and make sure the curve of the reinforcement exactly matches the radius of the tube.
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Thanks Doug I had thought about the center line.
Shakey hands. Me!!! Oh yesllll
Shakey hands. Me!!! Oh yesllll
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Brian Chapman on instagram...and the camera is shooting from above the tube, just looks like its defying gravity.
Click on the "arrow" in the center to watch vid, then hit the arrow on the right to see the next segment, notice the very small amount of silver used. If you search around his instagram you'll find some very good closeups of brazing techniques on various frame parts.
Click on the "arrow" in the center to watch vid, then hit the arrow on the right to see the next segment, notice the very small amount of silver used. If you search around his instagram you'll find some very good closeups of brazing techniques on various frame parts.
Last edited by calstar; 02-29-20 at 11:35 AM.
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I think Brian Chapman posted that right after I had done some bosses. The mistake I always make is pushing the reinforcement when I move the filler into the joint. I need to get my cateracts worked on
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He barely touches the boss with the silver, might no even touch it, just melts the silver so a fluid drop almost falls onto the boss. Also cool how he returns and uses the silver wire to clean up the reinforcement shoreline as well as around the boss. If you watch some of his other vids on fillets he uses the brass rod to drag/move the fluid brass around, both while tinning and fillet building, don't see/hear about that much from other sources.
Last edited by calstar; 03-01-20 at 01:24 PM.
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I know, it's an aiming error on my part