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ISO: SoFLA Brazer

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ISO: SoFLA Brazer

Old 03-08-20, 11:39 AM
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JBHoren
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ISO: SoFLA Brazer

I'm looking for a competent framebuilder/brazer in South Florida to replace the rear dropouts on my 1979 Raleigh "Grand Prix" and add fork/seatstay rack-mount braze-ons. (have replacement dropouts, need the others)

Bueller? Anyone?
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Old 03-08-20, 02:33 PM
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Carlos Clemente Cruz may be able to help you. https://www.cruzcomp.com/pages/about-us
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Old 03-08-20, 09:44 PM
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Is the frame worth the cost to do the work? Sentimental importance? Andy
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Old 03-09-20, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
Is the frame worth the cost to do the work? Sentimental importance? Andy
That's the question, innit? If I went solely by Frank Berto's "Upgrading Your Bike", the answer would be an easy one: No. But it's as you asked: Worth the cost? No, but. Sentimental importance? Yes.

#2 : I've already invested way too much in getting it to where I want -- time and money. It's become the "WIP From Hell"... almost; and
#1 : The bike was made in Canada, by Raleigh (Serial No. is correct), for a Canadian sporting goods chain, and gifted to me by a Canadian snowbird some seven years ago. He's no longer with us.

The frame fits, I've bought/traded-for/acquired parts to make it "mine", and, at this point, I sometimes "don't know whether to scratch my watch or wind my @ss." Add to that the dearth of new(er) rim-brake frames with "relaxed" geometries which, with a little chain-stay crimping, can run fat(ter) tires, and my dilemma becomes clearer (if not greater).

So, at this point it is, yes, a question of cost... and of convenience. If it's too expensive to do the work I want, then I'll stick with the mangled-but-serviceable DS dropout(*) and use "P"-clamps to anchor a front rack. Likewise, if I can't find anyone local to do the work, but would have to strip-and-ship it elsewhere, then it's a no-go. I'd rather take the time and play this out to its conclusion, then make an arbitrary go/no-go decision... even after seven years as a WIP.

Thanks for asking, Andrew.

(*) The stamped DS dropout required a hanger, and the part that fit inside the slot for the axle prevented me from properly fitting a 38mm tire. At the time, I hadn't yet heard of "chain-stay crimping", so I wondered aloud if welding the hanger onto the dropout (after removing the "offending" in-slot part) would solve the problem. Several local riders agreed with me, so another friend of mine did the work. WRONG DECISION. Anyway, what's done is done. Perhaps it's still structurally sound and will be OK, after all, and I'm being too much of a "purist"... where it's not necessary. In any case, it sure is FUGLY!


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Old 03-09-20, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dsaul View Post
Carlos Clemente Cruz may be able to help you. https://www.cruzcomp.com/pages/about-us
Thanks!
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Old 03-09-20, 09:14 PM
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I would at least complete job of welding on the der hanger. Complete? Yes, as the hanger's slot isn't lined up with the drop out's slot. This would cock the axle and thus the wheel off center.

One issue that many (most) Raleighs of this bike's grade and era is the use of the 71mm x 26tpi BB shell. Some Grand Prixs had the vastly more common (and still produced by many brands) 68mm x 24tpi but they are few and not the usual. Do you know which yours is? Andy
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Old 03-09-20, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
I would at least complete job of welding on the der hanger. Complete? Yes, as the hanger's slot isn't lined up with the drop out's slot. This would cock the axle and thus the wheel off center.
I understand what you've said, here; but the truth is that the axle is nowhere near the diameter of the dropout slot, so regardless of the mismatch, there's a lot of slop/play between the two. Admittedly, it's unnerving, but OTOH it permits me to get the wheel aligned properly, without too much difficulty. Of course, once it's out on the road, things may change...

One issue that many (most) Raleighs of this bike's grade and era is the use of the 71mm x 26tpi BB shell. Some Grand Prixs had the vastly more common (and still produced by many brands) 68mm x 24tpi but they are few and not the usual. Do you know which yours is?
Yes! Mine has the ever-popular 71mm x 26tpi proprietary Raleigh BB shell I decided early-on (but only after first having bought a 68mm x 24tpi BB, only to find that it didn't fit) that getting my LBS to shave off 1.5mm on either side AND retapping the threads for 24tpi was a non-starter; so I did find a correct (5P) spindle (71/122mm square-taper JIS) and took care of that. TBH, I'd prefer the more standard 68mm x 24tpi, but I was warned-off the retapping.

Again, thanks for your kind and timely reply. I think that, unless there's some obvious structural defect that dictates otherwise, I'm going to finish the build with the nasty rear dropout and see how it rides. It's not so easy, turning-down a gift; then one thing leads to another, and before you know it, you've become too invested to toss it into the dumpster. Time will tell.
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