Help Drawing Fork
#1
Senior Member
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Help Drawing Fork
I do not use CAD, my drawings are by hand. The issue I am having is accurately drawing a fork to dimension. Not sure where my disconnect is coming from, but when I draw the axle to crown distance at 380, then put a store bought fork with the same dimensions to the drawing, the measurement does not match. It is about 5mm shorter on the fork than the drawing.
Anyone who draws frames and forks the old fashioned way willing to provide a step by step process they use when drawing up the fork?
Anyone who draws frames and forks the old fashioned way willing to provide a step by step process they use when drawing up the fork?
#2
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There's some ambiguity about the definition. Most people measure the length along the line of the steerer rather than actually from the axle. This diagram explains it better:
https://www.bikecad.ca/taxonomy/term/52
https://www.bikecad.ca/taxonomy/term/52
#3
Team Beer
Are you measuring to the top of the where the crown race is or the bottom? They are usually around 5mm deep.
#4
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When looking at the fork from the front, I am measuring straight down from the where the bearing race seats onto the fork crown to the center of the axle. I just can't figure out where I am going wrong. Suppose I will play with it a whole bunch more to figure out where the mistake is taking place.
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When looking at the fork from the front, I am measuring straight down from the where the bearing race seats onto the fork crown to the center of the axle. I just can't figure out where I am going wrong. Suppose I will play with it a whole bunch more to figure out where the mistake is taking place.
#6
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my only complaint about bikecad is that it really doesn't help you design forks as much as it could, so you aren't missing anything on that front
I wouldn't trust the published specs of a production fork, they traditionally haven't been particularly careful about length.
I wouldn't trust the published specs of a production fork, they traditionally haven't been particularly careful about length.
#7
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Another source of wrong dimensions WRT forks is the difference between the axle to crown measurement as done to the front edge of the crown race seat VS the steerer's axis/crown seat point. About 2+mm of A-C difference.
The next mistake could be in how the fork is laid out on the full scale drawing. One should keep the steerer parallel to the paper's surface and use a square to extend up/off the paper the crown seat. Letting the fork blade sit against the paper can result in the steerer not being on plane WRT the drawing. perhaps another 2ish mms of change.
Not saying that the OP is making these errors but they are easy to fall into. Andy
The next mistake could be in how the fork is laid out on the full scale drawing. One should keep the steerer parallel to the paper's surface and use a square to extend up/off the paper the crown seat. Letting the fork blade sit against the paper can result in the steerer not being on plane WRT the drawing. perhaps another 2ish mms of change.
Not saying that the OP is making these errors but they are easy to fall into. Andy
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I just don't see the purpose of the drawing. I clamp the steerer in the fixture, set the dummy axle at the desired ATC length and offset, put the dropouts on the dummy axle and then connect the two with tubes.
#9
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"Another source of wrong dimensions WRT forks is the difference between the axle to crown measurement as done to the front edge of the crown race seat VS the steerer's axis/crown seat point. About 2+mm of A-C difference."
This is where I went wrong. Thank you, Andy.
Dsaul, I like to draw everything out before creating the pieces as it is habit I suppose. Just helps me see things more clearly. Probably not necessary.
This is where I went wrong. Thank you, Andy.
Dsaul, I like to draw everything out before creating the pieces as it is habit I suppose. Just helps me see things more clearly. Probably not necessary.
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I recently had a lathe reduction shaft made to replace the well worn one. Normally I am more of a design while cutting guy for these types of jobs but I needed to have another do the turning for me. So I made a drawing, actually 3 to get all (including the general scale) correct before I dropped off the old shaft and it's drive pully to the guy doing the work. He only gave the drawing passing attention as he had the old shaft as his guide. I did find it helpful to have made the drawing as it let me think the design out, make a mistake or two, without wasting the new piece of expensive steel. I fully agree with the value of a drawing. Andy
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