Reynolds 725 vs. other options
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Reynolds 725 vs. other options
First, let me apologize in advance for resurrecting a nine year old thread. I am considering a couple different options for custom built steel and Ti frames. I am currently 6'2'' 280 and want a gravel/commuter for reference.
I'm not worried about the extra weight of a steel frameset, but never thinking about corrosion on Ti would be nice........plus they look pretty sweet too.
I currently have a double butted 4130 Bombtrack that I ride and I really like it, but would like a custom sized frame. I will say that I flex the chainstays enough to hear the rotors touching the pads when I mash hard on a climb
My options for the steel frame builder,
Heat treated Chromoly 4130 double butted steel,
Reynolds 725
Reynolds 520
Columbus Cromor
Which of these would be the best recommendation? I'm leaning towards 725 but would love to hear opinions from experienced individuals.
I'm not worried about the extra weight of a steel frameset, but never thinking about corrosion on Ti would be nice........plus they look pretty sweet too.
I currently have a double butted 4130 Bombtrack that I ride and I really like it, but would like a custom sized frame. I will say that I flex the chainstays enough to hear the rotors touching the pads when I mash hard on a climb
My options for the steel frame builder,
Heat treated Chromoly 4130 double butted steel,
Reynolds 725
Reynolds 520
Columbus Cromor
Which of these would be the best recommendation? I'm leaning towards 725 but would love to hear opinions from experienced individuals.
Last edited by jmitchelltfo; 01-19-23 at 08:45 AM.
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It's the dog's bollocks. Heat-treated double-butted seamless chromoly. The higher the number the "better" so it's second from the top of the pack excluding the stainless ones. Reynolds don't sell any low-end tubes and there isn't really much difference across the range (although there were some aberrations in the past with things like 453-- I actually had a 453 bike).
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#4
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It's the dog's bollocks. Heat-treated double-butted seamless chromoly. The higher the number the "better" so it's second from the top of the pack excluding the stainless ones. Reynolds don't sell any low-end tubes and there isn't really much difference across the range (although there were some aberrations in the past with things like 453-- I actually had a 453 bike).
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SS had it's moment in the sun a number of years ago. A lot of builders tried one or more of the various SS tube offerings and some decided to not offer SS to customers due to all this. Generally those who continue to build w/ SS know their costs and what the market will bear. Andy
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I moved this to its own thread because people were going to reply to the old posts, most of which barely add anything. The old thread was here, it had some tech info: Reynolds 725 Tubing. Quality stuff?
Given your choices, I would definitely take 725. I would consider Ti as well, if it's in your budget. I think with Ti it would be easier to keep the rotors from touching under high loads. But there might be a comfort tradeoff. I would ask a steel framebuilder how they propose to handle this issue, and possibly modify my choice given their answer.
Given your choices, I would definitely take 725. I would consider Ti as well, if it's in your budget. I think with Ti it would be easier to keep the rotors from touching under high loads. But there might be a comfort tradeoff. I would ask a steel framebuilder how they propose to handle this issue, and possibly modify my choice given their answer.
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#7
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I
Given your choices, I would definitely take 725. I would consider Ti as well, if it's in your budget. I think with Ti it would be easier to keep the rotors from touching under high loads. But there might be a comfort tradeoff. I would ask a steel framebuilder how they propose to handle this issue, and possibly modify my choice given their answer.
Given your choices, I would definitely take 725. I would consider Ti as well, if it's in your budget. I think with Ti it would be easier to keep the rotors from touching under high loads. But there might be a comfort tradeoff. I would ask a steel framebuilder how they propose to handle this issue, and possibly modify my choice given their answer.
I will start asking some more detailed questions about wall thickness and how to keep the rear triangle stable without rattling my teeth out.
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IMHO if you have a good builder they should be able to give you the ride you want. part of what you are paying a builder for is knowledge and expertise.
I have build in progress and am happy with the process. tube details were not really discussed in detail, but end result desired was
not sure what "reasonable cost is" varies person my person, but I looked at my cost and was not more than the equivalent level carbon frame set from a known brand
have fun with the project
I have build in progress and am happy with the process. tube details were not really discussed in detail, but end result desired was
not sure what "reasonable cost is" varies person my person, but I looked at my cost and was not more than the equivalent level carbon frame set from a known brand
have fun with the project
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)