Grovel Bike Done
02-05-23, 04:45 PM
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Grovel Bike Done
I call this a grovel bike as a dig at what is being claimed as the newest thing but us oldies know it is what was the norm when we were kids. Might not make sense to you but I have a smile when I say it.
650B x 42 tires with enough clearance to fit slightly wider knobbed tires if I find that is needed. TRP Spires. 9x3 Campmano drivetrain. The geometry is more road like than most recent gravel thought. Low BB, 64ish mm trail, 43.5 stays. thinish walled 28.6 top and down tubes. Deda Zero Uno stays. Paint by Rust-oleum. Given the intended use I chose a earth tone color, my friend mentioned it was the same as his Surley LHT. About 24.25 lbs as shown. The rack is still at the powder coater but is also self made.
I wanted a bike that I would not dislike when on pavement but better handle the growing rail trails and paths. I've only gone up and down my street while dialing is seat and bars but this bike is quite nimble and feels pretty frisky under power. Good for the slower speeds that I will see on trails and not a deal killer for pavement. So far so good.
I choice rattle can paint because I don't want to sink the hundreds of $ a nice wet job will cost at least till I am certain the bike is how i want it to be, Stripping rattle can paint is so much easier than PC and the paint/primer cost under $50 (and baked in my recently done curing box). There are some drips, runs and nibs and I could have done a better job at filling the small pocks but for a temporary finish I'm Ok with passing the 20' test. I cleared over the decals.
There are a few interesting build details. The front dropouts are self made and even have a recessed QR end nut face with the slot not directly downward. The front brake mount is mine, traced from the Willets I have on hand. I like segmented cable housings (easier to clean/lube cables after a dirty ride) and "require" an adjuster on each cable. I think the trio of DT stops looks kind of cool. To route the rear brake cable around the shell and avoid the gear cables I fashioned a stainless (yes its painted) stand off tunnel. The rest is pretty usual for me. Simple stay end treatment with what's becoming my favorite SS top shape. This frame I deleted the chain stay bridge thinking the huge chainstays didn't need it and the cleaning would be easier. For once I got the tire clearances pretty consistant on both sides and top of both ft and rr.
All that's left is to ride it, which will wait for my cold to end (I tested for C19 twice and am negative) and less salty roads (which I will need to travel on to the nearest path). Andy
I include this shot of the decal applying process to show the support stick I just got made by a friend. It's based on what Doug Fattic uses. Works well.
The big view. Bar **** to come, basic black Cinelli cork.
You can see some of the paint job "quality"
650B x 42 tires with enough clearance to fit slightly wider knobbed tires if I find that is needed. TRP Spires. 9x3 Campmano drivetrain. The geometry is more road like than most recent gravel thought. Low BB, 64ish mm trail, 43.5 stays. thinish walled 28.6 top and down tubes. Deda Zero Uno stays. Paint by Rust-oleum. Given the intended use I chose a earth tone color, my friend mentioned it was the same as his Surley LHT. About 24.25 lbs as shown. The rack is still at the powder coater but is also self made.
I wanted a bike that I would not dislike when on pavement but better handle the growing rail trails and paths. I've only gone up and down my street while dialing is seat and bars but this bike is quite nimble and feels pretty frisky under power. Good for the slower speeds that I will see on trails and not a deal killer for pavement. So far so good.
I choice rattle can paint because I don't want to sink the hundreds of $ a nice wet job will cost at least till I am certain the bike is how i want it to be, Stripping rattle can paint is so much easier than PC and the paint/primer cost under $50 (and baked in my recently done curing box). There are some drips, runs and nibs and I could have done a better job at filling the small pocks but for a temporary finish I'm Ok with passing the 20' test. I cleared over the decals.
There are a few interesting build details. The front dropouts are self made and even have a recessed QR end nut face with the slot not directly downward. The front brake mount is mine, traced from the Willets I have on hand. I like segmented cable housings (easier to clean/lube cables after a dirty ride) and "require" an adjuster on each cable. I think the trio of DT stops looks kind of cool. To route the rear brake cable around the shell and avoid the gear cables I fashioned a stainless (yes its painted) stand off tunnel. The rest is pretty usual for me. Simple stay end treatment with what's becoming my favorite SS top shape. This frame I deleted the chain stay bridge thinking the huge chainstays didn't need it and the cleaning would be easier. For once I got the tire clearances pretty consistant on both sides and top of both ft and rr.
All that's left is to ride it, which will wait for my cold to end (I tested for C19 twice and am negative) and less salty roads (which I will need to travel on to the nearest path). Andy
I include this shot of the decal applying process to show the support stick I just got made by a friend. It's based on what Doug Fattic uses. Works well.
The big view. Bar **** to come, basic black Cinelli cork.
You can see some of the paint job "quality"
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