Xyphota

I am well into my first frame build, and I messed up mitering one of my seat stays. I didn't have my tube clamp secured as tight as I thought I did and the tube rotated under the holesaw and ripped a small hole through it. Now I'm sure the sensible thing to do would be to just order a new pair of seatstays, but in the interest of learning, I'm wondering if I should clean the up the hole a bit with a file to get rid of the stress risers, weld in the seat stay, and then patch the hole with brass. Rack mount bosses are put into this part of the seat stay all the time, so my thinking is that it likely won't be that big of a deal.

I thought I might be able to shorten the stays and then just weld them to the seat tube at a lower position, but I think I'll be off the seat tube butt at their new position. These could probably be saved for a different frame all together, but I don't have plans for frame #2 yet, and buying the seatstays alone will probably cost me an extra $50 for shipping and duties when it is all said and done. What are your thoughts?

Andrew R Stewart 

I might turn a sleeve to place in the stay end. Brass it in place, filling the holes too and remiter. Since I don't weld there would be no brass/welding incompatibilities to consider.

If you used a top eye, a preshaped top end which plugs into the stay end the stay's length changes. Again these are usually a brazed construction thing, not a welded frame one.

Why not weld and file/grind the damage spots? Andy

Added- I usually leave the dropout end long till after I have the top end ready. Andy

Xyphota

I hadn't considered that, I really like that suggestion. I think I will do that.

I think I will do that for future frames LOL.

Andrew R Stewart 

It is my understanding that one doesn't want any braze about the weld area. Once a weld is done it can be brazed over (GT use to do this on their Colorado frames) but not the other way. So, brazing in a sleeve then welding that to the seat tube will have the flowed layer of braze in the middle of the weld. Perhaps someone smarter than I will chime in on this. Andy

Xyphota

I would assume that it is because welding nearby will melt and possibly cook the braze? I was thinking in my head to do the brazing post weld, but maybe that won't go over so well LOL.

guy153

Fill the holes in with the TIG, sand it all smooth, and never speak of it again. It will be absolutely fine. Yes of course do this before attaching the stay to the bike.

dsaul

^This ^

I found a crack in one of my chainstays from some aggresive dimpling of the stay for tire clearance. I didn't notice the crack until after the frame was fully welded together and didn't want to cut the stay out and replace it. I carefully welded a bead over the entire length of the crack and filed and sanded it smooth again. I've been riding that bike hard for several years with no sign of the crack returning.

Xyphota

Alright maybe I'm just over thinking it. I will TIG weld it. I'll post an update when I get it sorted. Thanks for the feedback guys!

BadAtThis

this looks good so far I am also looking into a welding or fabrication solution for my frame

unterhausen

Unless it's just a practice frame that isn't going to be used long, I would get another seat stay. There is always something you can do with extra tubes, like make bike racks.

duanedr 

Since you have clearance for wide tires at the chainstay, I would figure out how to mount the stays to the outside of the seattube to preserve as much clearance as you can in the seatstays. In your drawing, there isn't much clearance. That would lead me to use top caps as Andrew suggested OR just replace the seatstays. They are pretty inexpensive. Use the remaining tubes for bridges or whatever.