Teamskene's

I would like to do a fair amount of masking work on my bike frame but would also like the durability of having a powder coated clear top coat. Is this possible if I do the painting myself and have it powder coated over by a professional?

thatcher

i dont think so due to the high heat involved in powdercoating. also i dont think the powder would stick to the paind like it would to bare metal.

Dr.Deltron

Start with powdercoat.

Apply details etc. (do NOT use ENAMEL for any of that. Use either laquer, basecoat colors or artists acrylic)

Clear with automotive clear paint.

Other Q's, PM me anytime.

tomn

Dr. Deltron,

Soooo much I don't know. You can spray 2 part auto paint (PPG) over powdercoat, and then clear coat it? I had no idea. I had my last touring bike powdercoated as I have given up painting them myself. I was a little bummed because I couldn't put my logo anywhere. On previous bikes I would spray on the logo's, after applying a precut mask, before the clearcoat. If I could do that over powdecoat I could have my cake & eat it too! How do you prep the powdercoat before you paint?

Tom

Dr.Deltron

A teacher is merely a student that started sooner!

Yup! In fact, I recommend a clear over any powdercoat for the fact that powderoating will "pull back" from sharp edges, such as lugs and cable guides. This is where the rust will start. If you have a couple 3 coats of clear sprayed over the powdercoat, this will effectively seal those edges. Plus you can polish the clear to a briliant shine. If the powdercoat color is metallic or pearl, you really should have a clear coat sprayed. If not, the metallic/pearls will scratch and become dull when you polish the frame. Cables rubbing will do the same thing if there is no clearcoat.

To prep the powdercoat for paint, simply clean the frame with PPG DX330 Wax & Grease Remover.
Apply mask, spray, remove mask, clear.
For colors over powdercoat, I use Sikkens AutoBase Plus colors. Other paints that will work are laquers, artists acrylics (paint in small tubes from an art supply store) or other water based paints such as AutoAir Colors. (I've had mixed results using AutoAir Colors for masked details. Sometimes it goes on smooth and other times it coagulates and makes for a funky texture when cleared) That's why I use Sikkens colors. They go on smooth, dry quickly, and I have their mixing system, so I have 1,000's of colors to choose from.
If you use rattle-can laquer, do a sample tube of PVC pipe.
Clean it with DX330, spray the laquer color, then clear. If problems develop, switch to automotive basecoat colors. The problem is likely that the rattle-can paint is ENAMEL! In which case the clear will wrinkle the color or turn it to mush. This is why a sample tube is recommended, to avoid headaches on "the real thing"!

So, enjoy having your "cake" and eating it, too!

Sorry about the delay in responding, but I rarely lurk outside the "C&V" forum. PM me if you need immediate answers!