Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Framebuilders
Reload this Page >

Can I drill my brake bridge for recessed brakes?

Notices
Framebuilders Thinking about a custom frame? Lugged vs Fillet Brazed. Different Frame materials? Newvex or Pacenti Lugs? why get a custom Road, Mountain, or Track Frame? Got a question about framebuilding? Lets discuss framebuilding at it's finest.

Can I drill my brake bridge for recessed brakes?

Old 03-09-11, 10:25 PM
  #1  
huerro
Villainous
Thread Starter
 
huerro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,894

Bikes: Trek 420, Cyclops

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Can I drill my brake bridge for recessed brakes?

Is there any reason why I couldn't drill out the rear hole on this Trek 400 to 8mm so that I can mount modern dual pivot calipers?

I've drilled a fork crown before which worked out well, but I'm afraid I'm missing something important here.

Thanks!

huerro is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 04:01 AM
  #2  
ftwelder
Senior Member
 
ftwelder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: vermont
Posts: 3,091

Bikes: Many

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
With that bridge, you should have no problem.
ftwelder is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 07:44 AM
  #3  
mudboy
Senior Member
 
mudboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Collegeville, PA
Posts: 1,352

Bikes: Ruckelshaus Randonneur, Specialized Allez (early 90's, steel), Ruckelshaus Path Bomber currently being built

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
YOu should be fine, but chances are that you'll need to use a right angle drill and a screw machine length bit, or break off a regular jobber drill bit to be short enough to fit with the drill between the seat tube and the bridge.
mudboy is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 07:57 AM
  #4  
Dave Kirk 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bozeman MT
Posts: 201

Bikes: Kirk

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 1 Post
It looks as if that bridge has a constant diameter hole of about 7 mm. Is that right?

If so then yes theoretically you should be able to drill it for a recessed brake nut. What Mud says it true - you'll need a drill that will fit into the very small space between the bridge and the back of the seat tube - and this may be a real PITA.

I have seen folks drill the hole from the outside so that you end up with a through hole of 8 mm and I suppose it would work but the hole wouldn't locate the brake bolt well and the nut would do all the location. Would this be an issue? Maybe but it seems like it would work. It would certainly be much easier to drill the bridge from the outside.

Is that frame set up for a LRC? It's hard to tell but looks like it might be.

Dave
Dave Kirk is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 09:34 AM
  #5  
tru
Senior Member
 
tru's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
get some tektro R559s in the nutted/threaded version.
tru is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 09:40 AM
  #6  
huerro
Villainous
Thread Starter
 
huerro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,894

Bikes: Trek 420, Cyclops

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks.

I had thought about drilling just the outside and mounting the brake on the inside of the seat stays. That would also help get rid of any interference with mounting the rack. As it is now, it almost hits the barrel adjuster.

I'm afraid I don't know what an LRC is. Long reach centerpull? If so, then no. The bike came from the factory with single pivot side pulls, with the front recessed and the back through the bridge.

If I can't find a right angle drill to borrow, I will probably just mount the front brake through the bridge and mount the rear brake through the fork with a very long nut.
huerro is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 09:43 AM
  #7  
huerro
Villainous
Thread Starter
 
huerro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,894

Bikes: Trek 420, Cyclops

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by tru View Post
get some tektro R559s in the nutted/threaded version.
I thought about them but I have a perfectly good set of dual pivot 105s in my parts drawer. No point in dropping $50 bucks when 10 minutes with a drill will do the job.
huerro is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 09:58 AM
  #8  
Dave Kirk 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bozeman MT
Posts: 201

Bikes: Kirk

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 1 Post
I'm sorry..... LRC means Long Reach Caliper.

Dave
Dave Kirk is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 10:33 AM
  #9  
huerro
Villainous
Thread Starter
 
huerro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,894

Bikes: Trek 420, Cyclops

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The brakes that it came with are 47-57. I measured the reach using Sheldon Brown's method to 49mm. And the 105s seem to fit fine with the pads bottomed out.
huerro is offline  
Old 03-13-11, 09:47 PM
  #10  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 22,546

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2575 Post(s)
Liked 1,214 Times in 766 Posts
If you can find shouldered washers, you could drill it all the way through and use the washer on the back. These used to be available:

JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 03-14-11, 01:30 PM
  #11  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 7,507

Bikes: 85 team Miyata (modern 5800 105) , '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) '82 nishiski,

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 634 Times in 444 Posts
you don't really need to do that. What I have done (twice) is from the sheldon brown playbook.

Drill out the front fork holes.....it really is more like reaming out.... not a lot of metal is being removed.

put ithe BACK caliper on the front, using a longer allen nut (most bike shops will have one)

Use the FRONT caliper on the back and used use a nut to hold it in place.
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
squirtdad is offline  
Old 03-18-11, 10:41 PM
  #12  
huerro
Villainous
Thread Starter
 
huerro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,894

Bikes: Trek 420, Cyclops

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by squirtdad View Post
you don't really need to do that. What I have done (twice) is from the sheldon brown playbook.

Drill out the front fork holes.....it really is more like reaming out.... not a lot of metal is being removed.

put ithe BACK caliper on the front, using a longer allen nut (most bike shops will have one)

Use the FRONT caliper on the back and used use a nut to hold it in place.
I tried that, but between the radiused washer and the thickness of the fork crown, the back brake bolt isn't long enough. There is nothing for a long nut to hold onto.
huerro is offline  
Old 03-19-11, 04:29 AM
  #13  
Canaboo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 467
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Can you just use an appropriate "Chicago bolt" to make it work somehow?
Canaboo is offline  
Old 04-10-11, 03:15 PM
  #14  
relyt
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 619
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
The hole doesn't need to be enlarged much. Grip a drill bit with some Channel Locks and do it by hand. Cutting oil makes it easier.
relyt is offline  
Old 04-16-11, 11:34 PM
  #15  
Alan Edwards
Senior Member
 
Alan Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lancaster,CA the desert north of Los Angeles
Posts: 701

Bikes: 84' Ciocc, 79' Shogun 1000, 76' KHS Gran Sport, 96' Schwinn Super Sport,

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have a little block under my brake bolt nut. I don't know what it's called, but they used to be on old bikes all the time. It holds a presa/schader adapter on a little short bolt. On mine I took it off, drilled the hole and put the new brake on the bike. No drilling the frame at all and the brake stays centered. I have no idea where to find one to buy one. But it works great.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
054.jpg (88.2 KB, 203 views)
File Type: jpg
055.jpg (92.0 KB, 199 views)
Alan Edwards is offline  
Old 04-21-11, 07:40 AM
  #16  
Italuminium
Cisalpinist
 
Italuminium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Holland
Posts: 5,556

Bikes: blue ones.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...
Italuminium is offline  
Old 04-21-11, 07:29 PM
  #17  
dwellman
Godbotherer
 
dwellman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
Posts: 1,322

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm going to drill mine. Just need to get a bit.
dwellman is offline  
Old 04-22-11, 02:49 AM
  #18  
ftwelder
Senior Member
 
ftwelder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: vermont
Posts: 3,091

Bikes: Many

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Italuminium View Post
BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...
No, you don't want to drill an aluminum frame.
ftwelder is offline  
Old 04-22-11, 06:29 PM
  #19  
dwellman
Godbotherer
 
dwellman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
Posts: 1,322

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dwellman View Post
I'm going to drill mine. Just need to get a bit.
Ok, I had to settle for a 5/16 bit. . . and I turned that sucker by hand on both mounting holes (front and rear). Brakes are IN. They look weird on the frame though. Mid 90's shimano grey. . . Oh well, they WORK!
dwellman is offline  
Old 04-22-11, 06:53 PM
  #20  
ultraman6970
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,859
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Italuminium View Post
BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...
Get longer bolts or get a front one and cut it, Nobody will noticed anyways because what will be sticking off the bridge is about 3 mm. Besides the internal part of the bridge is not visible like 99% of the time.
ultraman6970 is offline  
Old 04-22-11, 07:13 PM
  #21  
dwellman
Godbotherer
 
dwellman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
Posts: 1,322

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ftwelder View Post
No, you don't want to drill an aluminum frame.
Why not?
dwellman is offline  
Old 04-23-11, 01:19 AM
  #22  
Italuminium
Cisalpinist
 
Italuminium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Holland
Posts: 5,556

Bikes: blue ones.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Yeah i figured that taking the drill to a 30 year old alloy bike was someting of a suicide. I ended up buying the same brakes in the non recessed version.
Italuminium is offline  
Old 04-23-11, 06:49 AM
  #23  
dwellman
Godbotherer
 
dwellman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
Posts: 1,322

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If there are already mounting holes, I maintain there;s still more to gain and less to lose reaming a larger diameter opening. I didn't use a drill on mine.


On a side note. . crappy rear bracket is HIGHER than the fork crown. So my regular old 39-49mm work fine on the front. . . don't fit on the rear. X-mart special: what you gonna do?
dwellman is offline  
Old 04-23-11, 09:10 PM
  #24  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 7,710

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1629 Post(s)
Liked 1,228 Times in 811 Posts
I just did this with my Trek 400 for 6600 Ultegra brakes. Took about 15 min with a regular bit held in a vise grips. A little finish work with a rat tail file.
dedhed is offline  
Old 04-24-11, 06:40 AM
  #25  
dwellman
Godbotherer
 
dwellman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
Posts: 1,322

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah. . it's safer and, dare i say, easier to do it by hand. For the rear, it really is the only way.
dwellman is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FaithsAngel
Bicycle Mechanics
4
12-30-18 11:20 AM
Yo Spiff
Bicycle Mechanics
18
05-31-13 09:04 AM
Capecodder
Bicycle Mechanics
16
12-03-11 09:23 PM
benpiner
Bicycle Mechanics
4
03-29-10 06:54 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.