What files do you use?
 

What do you mostly use on a lugged frame, a fillet brazed frame? I'm not looking for an all inclusive set of files, but not only a few low end ones either. I'm asking for guidance in getting a nice set. I have the typical half round, round, chainsaw file, flat bastard and mill bastard, 60 degree tri. Size and brand you use would be appreciated.

thanks, Brian

It's late but I will say first that one can't have too many files...

6"- half round fine and med. Both tapering (swiss pattern). 8"- same. Needle files- 4" long tapering (again Swiss) round and half round mediun cut. Warding files- (perfect for slotting) 4", 6" 10". Round- tapering 12" and 6" fine tooth.

These are the ones that come to mind right now. I don't use the classic mill and American (not tapered) half round ones too often. I do use the classic round 8",10" and 12" med.

Remember that tooth cut is proportional to length. So a 6" med. is close to the same tooth cut as an 8" fine.

Hope this helps, some way. Andy.

I don't go nuts on files, but you need a few. Big rat tail for bridges. Big half rounds for miters. Big flat warding for crowns. For little ones I like round and square. I could easily get rid of half my file collection. Of course I use a dyna-file a lot. I don't spend a lot and get exotic, but now and then you get a hold of some that don't work worth ****. Don't overlook the lowly chainsaw file, it can be your best friend.

Thought I might as well post this link on files in general. Brian

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_(tool)

Look at the tubing sizes you actually work, and match them up to the extent possible with files. Don't overlook stuff like hack saws, and aircraft shears to do some of the rough work.

Craig- This just goes to show how different the pursuit of building can be. I started out doing hand miters with a big 14" corse round file. Now I avoid it if at all possible. These days i rough cut with a saw, grind down close to the line and fine tune with a half round. Andy.

I agree. What you describe is my procedure. Actually, I don't think there's a whole lot of filing to be done while mitering.

Brian, I'm a guy that uses files a lot to thin lugs and make any joint (including fillet brazes) look seamless. I put an emphasis on looks as well as function. To get the results I'm happy with, I use a 3 step process. The 1st step is to use a course cut file to remove the bulk of the metal and create the shape I want. I do this mostly with American pattern bastard cut half round files. When there are times when a round file is useful (like doing a scollop shape in the brass on the connection between stays and forged dropouts) I prefer them (my American pattern round files) to be the finer 2nd cut. I recommend getting a size run in both half round and round starting at 4 inches and going to 14". If one is on a budget they could leave off the 14" HR.

I have a Dynafile (and other power tools like a die grinder) but I don't use it often. Almost all students do more damage then good with it. If I do use it, it would be after already doing some rough shape filing. And I still need to go back to files afterward because it is impossible - with such a powerful tool that removes metal so fast - to create a perfect shape with it. My most likely application is in the middle of shaping a fillet braze with an 1/8" belt. Another common finish that can be speeded up with a 1/2" belt is where the dropouts and tubes are joined.

The 2nd step is to get rid of the files marks with a finer cut file. My preference when doing this step is to use Swiss Pattern files. I have a bunch because I'm a fussy filer but the most used one is a 6" half round with a #1 cut. This is also an outstanding file to use when shaping the edges of lugs, bb shells and fork crowns. I couldn't imagine being without one. The rule of thumb is for 2 rows of teeth to be on the material at all time. The teeth will chip off otherwise. I also use the same file in a #2 cut a lot of time when I'm in the last part stages of step number two or the beginning to step number three. If I was to recommend another Swiss Pattern file it would be a 6" round with a #1 cut. While I don't use them, it is possible to do this 2nd step with American Pattern smooth cut files. The Swiss Pattern files are pretty pricey.

The 3rd step in joint finishing is to polish them with 80 grit emery cloth to remove any trace of file marks. This step could start with my #2 files. One has to be careful not to round off the edges. To avoid that I mostly scrub the surface of the lug with my finger behind the emery. I don't often use a shoe shine motion on lugs because it can take down an edge or tip too far in seconds.

My favorite files were made by the Save Edge company in Xenia, Ohio. They didn't make the file blanks but rather just cut the teeth. They are a file resharpening service too. However their strategies have changed recently and they are no longer going to make the industrial files we use or sell them directly to a consumer. My company order of preference for American Pattern files is now Simonds, Nicholson and finally Grobet. I avoid "import" files that don't seem to stay sharp any length of time.

Every file of any size should have a file handle. My favorite ones are made by the Scroo-zon company. They come in sizes 1 to 8 to fit different size file tangs. The ones that pound on seem to come loose way to often. I have a chart that I hand out to my frame building class students of which file fits which size number of Scroo-zon handle.

By the way I also have a selection of jewelers files for lug cut outs.

The difficulty of filing well shouldn't be underestimated. In my opinion it is harder to do then brazing but a learner has the advantage of being able to take plenty of time to get it right. There are essentially 2 basic motions required for success. The first is to file in a clocklike manner so that there is no space between each stroke. This is done until the work needs to be moved for comfortable access. The second is that in most cases each stroke has a sideways motion as well as a forward one with perhaps some rotation as well. It takes some explanation , demonstration and then practice for students to get the hang of how to do it.

Nicholson brand is Good.

Doug Fattic; +10 on your "The second is that in most cases each stroke has a sideways motion as well as a forward one with perhaps some rotation as well." Can't say I ever got a really smooth and easy filing result until I "discovered" this secret (some time back in the mid-70's) which is now fully muscle memory... Thanks for reminding us!