Bike Forums - Couple quick questions.

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Tried the scotchbrite again while brazing up the chain stays, flows quite a bit nicer. I also used less flux.. have FAR fewer pin holes. As to the old fillets not wetting out, I made a much hotter flame leaning more on the oxy and finnnnnnnnaaaalllly got it to wet out. Bonus points: got some of the sloppy spots to look much nicer =)

I have been so worried about putting too much heat on a joint that I think I'm actually not putting enough in the first place. My next goal is to get better at my edges so I don't need to lean on the file so much.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart (Post 14992841)

I'll add to Eric's good reply that a mock (or real...) lug/sleeve can be made with two tubes very easily. The outer tube (the one which is the "lug") needs to be 1/8" larger in diameter then the inner tube (the "frame tube") and have a .058" wall. This results in a near perfect sliding fit suitible for both brass and Silver practice. So a "frame tube" of 1" diameter would need a "lug" tube of 1 1/8" x .058" wall. Here's a link to Aircraft Spruce, a source for said stuff. Andy. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...tubing_un1.php

I'll add to Andy's note;

If one is going to make lugs to fit and are using a mill, a Joint Jigger, or similar machinery to mitre the frame tubes... Then it makes sense to take advantage of the machine settings. Thus as soon as one end of a frame tube is mitred, just pop in the 1/8" larger tube and cut its mitre using the same settings as its respective frame tube end.

Hope that helps someone save some setup time and maybe some filing time also.

/K