Bamboo/Carbon Build Question
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Bamboo/Carbon Build Question
Hi,
I will be doing my 1st frame build with a kit from BambooBikeStudio. This uses carbon tow wrapped lugs. The kit supplies a vinyl stretch tape for wrapping/compressing the epoxy saturated carbon prior to curing.
In my years of boat ownership I've done some composite repairs and have used a heat shrinkable mylar tape for the layup compression. This worked out ok in those cases. Has anyone used it on a bike frame build? Angles/curves are more complex than what I've done before.
Thanks.
Mike.
I will be doing my 1st frame build with a kit from BambooBikeStudio. This uses carbon tow wrapped lugs. The kit supplies a vinyl stretch tape for wrapping/compressing the epoxy saturated carbon prior to curing.
In my years of boat ownership I've done some composite repairs and have used a heat shrinkable mylar tape for the layup compression. This worked out ok in those cases. Has anyone used it on a bike frame build? Angles/curves are more complex than what I've done before.
Thanks.
Mike.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yes, that's how the kit comes. I've just received mine this past weekend. I've setup my jig on a 2'x4' flat board and fitted the balsa blocks to the BB & HT with thickened epoxy (I'm using West System G-Flex with high density filler here instead of the 5-minute JB Kwik Set that comes with the kit). I hope to begin the wrapping stage next weekend....need a block of 2 days to perform that stage...once you roughen the Bamboo ends they recommend no more than 48 hrs to complete the wrapping to prevent excessive drying out of the roughened areas.
#6
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 495
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
12 Posts
Yes, that's how the kit comes. I've just received mine this past weekend. I've setup my jig on a 2'x4' flat board and fitted the balsa blocks to the BB & HT with thickened epoxy (I'm using West System G-Flex with high density filler here instead of the 5-minute JB Kwik Set that comes with the kit). I hope to begin the wrapping stage next weekend....need a block of 2 days to perform that stage...once you roughen the Bamboo ends they recommend no more than 48 hrs to complete the wrapping to prevent excessive drying out of the roughened areas.
The outer skin on bamboo actually doesn't have a huge impact on how dry a piece will become.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Want to do an experiment and I dont want to spend too much in materials, thats why I was asking. Wonder who in the world sells this stuff in my area now.. :/
Thanks for the tip in the G-flex system, perfect for what i want to do, they sell just small amounts of stuff.
From what I have read some people use use masking tape to tight the fibers, cheap and looks like works just fine.
Thanks for the tip in the G-flex system, perfect for what i want to do, they sell just small amounts of stuff.
From what I have read some people use use masking tape to tight the fibers, cheap and looks like works just fine.
Yes, that's how the kit comes. I've just received mine this past weekend. I've setup my jig on a 2'x4' flat board and fitted the balsa blocks to the BB & HT with thickened epoxy (I'm using West System G-Flex with high density filler here instead of the 5-minute JB Kwik Set that comes with the kit). I hope to begin the wrapping stage next weekend....need a block of 2 days to perform that stage...once you roughen the Bamboo ends they recommend no more than 48 hrs to complete the wrapping to prevent excessive drying out of the roughened areas.
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hi,
I will be doing my 1st frame build with a kit from BambooBikeStudio. This uses carbon tow wrapped lugs. The kit supplies a vinyl stretch tape for wrapping/compressing the epoxy saturated carbon prior to curing.
In my years of boat ownership I've done some composite repairs and have used a heat shrinkable mylar tape for the layup compression. This worked out ok in those cases. Has anyone used it on a bike frame build? Angles/curves are more complex than what I've done before.
Thanks.
Mike.
I will be doing my 1st frame build with a kit from BambooBikeStudio. This uses carbon tow wrapped lugs. The kit supplies a vinyl stretch tape for wrapping/compressing the epoxy saturated carbon prior to curing.
In my years of boat ownership I've done some composite repairs and have used a heat shrinkable mylar tape for the layup compression. This worked out ok in those cases. Has anyone used it on a bike frame build? Angles/curves are more complex than what I've done before.
Thanks.
Mike.
Black electrical tape worked great for me. Buy a few extra rolls.
I have a blog post about it here: https://www.cameronbrown.ca/blog/2013...-wrapin-it-up/
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
G-Flex epoxy from West Systems is pretty nice to use for many small projects. It has better elasticity (less brittle) than the standard laminating resin but somewhat lower overall bonding strength. It sets a little faster as well.
They also make a 5-min resin system, though I have never used it....gotta be better than JB Kwik ;-)
For small work, the standard resin also comes in a little kit of several blister packets (think Ketchup & Mustard packets from a takeout joint). These work very nicely without needing the ratio pump and big cans of resin.
Any decent marine supply store will carry West System resins & fillers. Can also be bought on-line.
They also make a 5-min resin system, though I have never used it....gotta be better than JB Kwik ;-)
For small work, the standard resin also comes in a little kit of several blister packets (think Ketchup & Mustard packets from a takeout joint). These work very nicely without needing the ratio pump and big cans of resin.
Any decent marine supply store will carry West System resins & fillers. Can also be bought on-line.
Want to do an experiment and I dont want to spend too much in materials, thats why I was asking. Wonder who in the world sells this stuff in my area now.. :/
Thanks for the tip in the G-flex system, perfect for what i want to do, they sell just small amounts of stuff.
From what I have read some people use use masking tape to tight the fibers, cheap and looks like works just fine.
Thanks for the tip in the G-flex system, perfect for what i want to do, they sell just small amounts of stuff.
From what I have read some people use use masking tape to tight the fibers, cheap and looks like works just fine.
#10
Senior Member
Would a roll of the stretchy rubber handlebar tape work? It has a lot of strength and if the need is to compact the joint and force the wrap down to its minimum thickness... that property might be useful? Have to wonder if it would be reusable for subsequent joints...I don't know if the resin will stick to it or not?
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Willy, VIC
Posts: 644
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
If the rubber has enough flex it doesn't matter if the epoxy adheres or not because it will flex off.
I use silicone tubing to pressure wrap tubes made of of wood veneers and simply pull the tubing to stretch it to remove the cured epoxy.
I use silicone tubing to pressure wrap tubes made of of wood veneers and simply pull the tubing to stretch it to remove the cured epoxy.
#12
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 495
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
12 Posts
Cut all your ruined inner tubes up into one inch wide strips. That works great and you can pull it as tight as needed.
Keep in mind that when you're wrapping a low spot that you can't put the pressure wrap on directly on you can span it with a wrap and then roll up some tubing into a wad and use it to force the wrap down on the next pass.
Keep in mind that when you're wrapping a low spot that you can't put the pressure wrap on directly on you can span it with a wrap and then roll up some tubing into a wad and use it to force the wrap down on the next pass.