Internal computer cable?
 

Have any of the "older" framebuilders ever heard of modifying a frame for internal computer wiring and permanent sensor mounts? I just picked up a 1985 Bridgestone 700, that has this type of modification. It was done some time before 1988, as the frame had a California registration decal from 1988 that was on top of the new paint.'

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...EcgO2g60_3.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps122176e9.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps797e81d7.jpg

Unfortunately, the wires were cut at the downtube. I'm considering trying to track down a vintage Cateye so that I can restore this unusual piece.

looks nice. I can't remember if I threw my Cateye away. Still worked, I just got tired of the magnet ring. Ok, so maybe mine was older than the one on your bike :)

Looks nice, yes, But this is why internal routed accessories are not always the best idea. If the guy who did the mods back pre 1988 knew of the next 25 years of computer changes do you think he would have dedicated the frame to what's now is an out of production computer? Andy.

the mounts are still useful, but the internal wiring isn't. OTOH, I was thinking the speed sensor wire would work for a rear light.

I'm going to TRY to splice a new Cateye wired computer with cadence to the old sensors. With a bit of luck, I might be able to keep it functional for another decade or 2. :)

Wow, that is pretty cool! When you REALLY like to know your speed, cadence, etc... Some pretty fancy one-off bikes have integrated power meters, this was a precursor. Are the cable routed in small tubes, or just floating inside?

My guess is that splicing the wires will work.

They're just floating loose inside. I'll probably take it one small step further and put a layer of heat shrink tubing over the wires where they pass through the frame. Maybe even 2 layers where it goes through the bottom bracket shell. I'd rather not ever have to fix this part of it again.

I would guess that the wires on these are enamel coated, so you will need to scrape or burn that off in order to solder the splices. A solder pot would come in handy here :)

TR; worse case you might be able to get a grip on the wire bits that have been sheared off, pull them out enough to solder a bit of stout wire to it, and then use that as a pull string to drag in whatever wiring your future plans dictate.

I have always resisting running wires or cables through a frame loose; mostly because they would seem to flop around and fail or just make annoying noises. One of the suppliers sells long sticks of small brass tubing for this use and they or another supplier sells braze-on bits to terminate the tube on the main tubes.

The pix you provided show additional bits to bolt things on that look nifty to my eyes...

If you thought it had anything to do with Bridgestone, you could contact grant petersen at rivendell and see if he knows anything.

If it is just a mater of fishing new wires through the bike, that can often be done with a vacuum or compressed air and some string. Get some floppy soft string and send it from hole to hole, then pull through an escalation of strings until you can pull the wire. With Di2, this kind of thing is common.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ugh+bike+frame

Wow...hadn't thought about this in years, but yes, I have done a few internal routing jobs waaaaay back in the day when the Avocet was THE computer to have. I ran the cable through the fork blade, through the crown and up the steerer tube. Had to do a few mods to the stem also. I've never seen one done for a rear mount/cadence sensor like that though....pretty slick!

It's "almost" too bad I use a Garmin now, otherwise I'd actually think about doing it again! ;)