Cracked S-works M2 frame
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Cracked S-works M2 frame
I have a 1998 Sworks M2 frame that I found a crack on the bottom of. I'm not sure of the terminology but i think it is on the drive side of the chainstay? It is not completely on the weld but partly. It wraps about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way around the tube. Is this something that i can have repaired? I have a friend who is an awesome welder (MIG, TIG, ARC, etc.) Is this something that i can have him do or should I look into replacing the frame with something else and transerfering my parts over to the new frame. Thanks in advance for the input.
#2
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To start out, I'm no pro. That being said, when you watch how these threads develop, you usually see a few people chime in with "that's easy!" before someone with real framebuilding experience points out why it's going to be way easier to replace the frame.
In the last one, the pro's point was that there was an original reason that this failed. That reason still exists. In addition to that reason, you've now got oxidation and grit inside the crack. So, you COULD replace the whole chainstay (exposing the surrounding pieces to additional heat cycles that will weaken them), but the time/cost of doing that (and ending up with something weaker than the original frame and with an incomplete paint job) doesn't really justify not finding a similar frame on ebay for 100 bucks or so. It's a nice frame, but it's 15 years old, and it just won't cost that much to replace.
You normally see frame repairs being worth it on custom frames and stuff that isn't replaceable... or bikes with HUGE sentimental value.
So, yeah... not a pro personally, but watched a bunch of these threads go down. Will be honestly happy for you if this case is somehow different and someone steps in to correct me.
In the last one, the pro's point was that there was an original reason that this failed. That reason still exists. In addition to that reason, you've now got oxidation and grit inside the crack. So, you COULD replace the whole chainstay (exposing the surrounding pieces to additional heat cycles that will weaken them), but the time/cost of doing that (and ending up with something weaker than the original frame and with an incomplete paint job) doesn't really justify not finding a similar frame on ebay for 100 bucks or so. It's a nice frame, but it's 15 years old, and it just won't cost that much to replace.
You normally see frame repairs being worth it on custom frames and stuff that isn't replaceable... or bikes with HUGE sentimental value.
So, yeah... not a pro personally, but watched a bunch of these threads go down. Will be honestly happy for you if this case is somehow different and someone steps in to correct me.
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It used to swork and now it's bork
There's been a thread of sad bikes in the frame building forum lately, I hope we get to see some happier bikes soon.


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Thanks for the input so far. I've had the bike since 2000 when i bought it used off a friend of a friend. I'm not hugely attached to the frame I just would like to do what ever's going to be not crazy expensive but also something that i can XC ride as well still. I also use the bike to ride a few miles to work each day as well so it gets quite a few miles put on it.
My main concern with switching out the frame is compatability of the parts off my old one. Most of the stuff on it is from 1998 as well: XT derailers, shifters, hubs, XTR Crank, blown Rock Shock Judy. What would be the first place to start in figuring out compatability? Thanks
My main concern with switching out the frame is compatability of the parts off my old one. Most of the stuff on it is from 1998 as well: XT derailers, shifters, hubs, XTR Crank, blown Rock Shock Judy. What would be the first place to start in figuring out compatability? Thanks
#5
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I went through this with my old road frame. It ended up being that I transferred only a small fraction of the components. I would have been better (Cost-wise) off either buying a new bike or using a replacement frame of the same time period.
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since it's aluminum, I would send it to the recyclers. Unless your friend is Frank the Welder, I think you are out of luck for a lasting repair
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M2 was a Specialized proprietary metal-matrix blend of aluminum tubing and required a very speficic heat treatment regeime. If you were able to figure out what sort of filler rod would work with their metalurgy (probably not off-the-shelf 6000 or 7000), you would need to re-do the heat treatment post welding or else the heat effected zone from the welding would likely have all the tensile strength of a melted hershy bar. Typical quotes to have a single standardized 6000 series frame heat treated by facilitly with all the special HT equipment are upwards of $500 per frame and the M2 likely would likely need a non-standard heat treatment regieme so likley could be even more expensive. Manufactures heat treat in large batches to save cost, single frame jobs are just cost prohibitive. Most amature built aluminum frames are made from 7000 series material that need much less stringent heat treatment / artificail aging regeime.
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Thanks for the opinions and the explainations everyone. Sounds like what most of you are saying, espesially GrayJay, my frame is pretty much effed as far as repairing it and using it for actual mountain biking. Perhaps I'll just use it as a commuter and buy another bike for actual riding. At least I was able to get a solid 15 years of use out of it 
What are the odds of using my old part off of this bike to put on a newer frame? SHould i not even bother with that route?

What are the odds of using my old part off of this bike to put on a newer frame? SHould i not even bother with that route?
#9
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