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Brazing lugs with flux coated silver rods?

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Brazing lugs with flux coated silver rods?

Old 10-21-14, 12:30 PM
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WheelNut2
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Brazing lugs with flux coated silver rods?

Hey everyone,

I'm starting my first frame build this week and I'm wondering if it is possible to use flux coated 45 and 56% silver brazing rods? I order my brazing rod on Ebay and the seller accidentally sent me some flux coated rods instead of bare rods. Sending them back is a big time waste as I'm in Canada and the selling is in the USA. He has offered me a discount on the flux coated rods if I am able to use them at all. What do the experienced builders think?

My build is Nova double OS tube 0.8/0.5/0.8, Nova Double OS lugs 1.2/0.85mm thick, Columbus semi-horizontal drop outs, and my brazing rod is Harris Safety Silv 56 & 45.

Can I use the flux coated rods or will it be to difficult to gauge the temperature (I do have regular brush on flux to use as well)? Can I smash the flux off of them and use them bare with brush on flux?

Thanks in advance,
Brad

Last edited by WheelNut2; 10-21-14 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 10-21-14, 05:01 PM
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unterhausen
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I think it's best to clean the flux off the rods. You can't be sure the two fluxes will be chemically compatible and you probably want to use more flux than is on the rods
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Old 10-25-14, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
I think it's best to clean the flux off the rods. You can't be sure the two fluxes will be chemically compatible and you probably want to use more flux than is on the rods
I would be first interested in the alloy make up of the rod. In general, flux coated rods are "bronze" or brass. Silver around here comes on coils.

Before you do a real joint assuming you keep them, do a practice joint. The flux might be compatible.

I definitely would still lather up the joint with flux no matter. Having a flux coated rod just does what a flux coated joint does, keeps the oxidation at bay.
I lightly heat up an uncoated rod with the torch and dip it in dry flux anyway, after I clean it first. Clean is good. Clean is strong.
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Old 10-26-14, 01:03 PM
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you'd have to reverse engineer the flux, it's not worth taking a risk with your health. All flux has reactive chemicals in it, that's how it works. One of the guys at Cycle Design convinced me it's not worth mixing fluxes unless you know they are compatible. Yeah, it's probably safe, but I don't think it's worth messing with. You can flex the rod and most of it falls off. Then take a scratchy pad to it and it will be clean. I doubt it will take much time at all

I bought some flux coated silver BITD, I might even still have some, dunno. We used to get silver in straight rods, not sure when that stopped. It all starts out as coils, any wire does.
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Old 10-26-14, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
We used to get silver in straight rods, not sure when that stopped. It all starts out as coils, any wire does.
Silver rods are still available around here, the last time I bought some anyway:

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Old 10-26-14, 09:56 PM
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I began my building using AllState rods. The silver, #1155 56% IIRC, was flux coated and packaged in tubes of 9 rods. The fluz would soak off in time but I learned that the Harris powder was better and easier to remove. So the rods would get the coating broken off before use. I've moved on since then. Andy.
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Old 10-27-14, 08:12 AM
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just my .02p

IDK About the kinds you get , in the Art metalwork we used a higher melting point silver solder for making sub assembly components,

and a lower melting point type to join the component parts & so not remelt the other joined parts seams.
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