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Tig torch choices

Old 01-03-15, 11:46 AM
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buildyourown
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Tig torch choices

I've got a Miller Dialarc 250. Not the best machine for thin stuff as it has no pulse and only goes down to ~35 amps.
It's got a WT-20 torch on it. I've been looking for a bigger gas lens setup. I see the really big gas lenses only fit the bigger torches like the WT-18.

What torch, gas lens, electrode setup are people using? What size filler are people using?

Thanks,
Tyler
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Old 01-05-15, 12:52 AM
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PithyBikes
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Hi Tyler,
I'm new to this stuff so you may want a second opinion. I took a short class in frame building and we used a wp9 torch in the class. This seems to be the standard.

Almost forgot to mention. I'm welding at around 60 amps. What's important is that you have variable control with foot pedal.


My setup below:

tungsten
recommended:
2% lanth AC aqua
size: 1.6mm 1/16 for frame tubing
2.4mm 3/32 for most other things


filler rod
4130 - filler rod: ER70S-2 or ER80S-D2
and folks swear by weld mold 880 (but i never tried it)

This is the gas lense I use (from arc zone website)
https://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?m...3l5e6son5j7g7v

This is the collet
https://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?m...products_id=17

This is the nozzle
https://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=112
(#8 1/2")

I have a video that explains some stuff too. I'm doing a video series on building my first frame. (sorry for the shameless plug)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlPTqz2f07E

Good luck!
-Steve
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Old 01-05-15, 02:05 PM
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triathloner 
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Nice work Steve, I enjoyed your videos.
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Old 01-05-15, 09:08 PM
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MassiveD
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There was an excellent tutorial by one of the name bike builders, on youtube. He had a video on how you modify a gas lens to provide way better coverage than what you can buy, plus it was cheap. I have the parts in my shop, but the basic technique is you take one of the larger pink cups that is virtually straight, and you mount it behind the brass lens so it is parallel out where the welding takes place, but tapers around the back of the lens. It won't mount far enough forward on the lens, so you have to turn away the corners on the back of the lens, in a lathe, or somehow. With that minor modification the cup will go far enough forward. You hold it in place with some epoxy steel. You clamp that in place while it dries by just screwing it together in the handle.

This is apparently the secret weapon of Ti bike makers, compared to say the clear glass units.

There are about 8000 Tig videos that come up with every search I tried. I wish I could remember who put the video up. I thought it might be Groovy.
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Old 01-05-15, 09:13 PM
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Ha,ha. Someone else quotes a Groovy video in this forum, something about forks, and I was able to work back:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPZ00jFDuxY

So while this is Ti, you can weld without a big gas lens on standard steel. But when you think you need more, I don't seen any particular reason to not use a Ti set-up. Might as well, as if it works for Ti, it should work on steel.

Just for searchability


Welding Titanium, Welding Ti. Frabricating Tig Cup, Ti tig cup.

Last edited by MassiveD; 01-05-15 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 01-07-15, 01:09 AM
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Wow, that was cool. I'm gonna try this. It'll come in handy when I need to extend the tungsten further out. Thanks for sharing MassiveD.

In the video he mentions the larger glass diameter lens as another option for ti builders. When I started out buying my first torch setup I didn't know what to get so I purchased a kit. Kind of sorry I did that because it was not a good value. Mainly because it came with a bunch of stuff I didn't end up using. Anyway it had some glass lenses in the kit and I found them to be expensive and just ok. Ceramic is the way to go imo. Especially when starting out since you will sputter up the lens frequently and need to replace it.
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Old 01-07-15, 05:22 AM
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I've welded for years tig mig stick and pithy has the answer. And pink when you start out is right.
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Old 01-07-15, 05:31 AM
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In all fairness I would say Rody Walter has the answer.
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Old 01-07-15, 05:33 AM
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Yeah Pithy, on the start-ups, and if you can extend the trode you don't have to worry about the visibility. I think it probably saves a lot of gas the industry way, but since we have to get into so many places, the extended trode is a given on some passes anyway.
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Old 01-08-15, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MassiveD View Post
In all fairness I would say Rody Walter has the answer.
Hahah indeed!
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Old 01-09-15, 05:38 PM
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I'm waiting for my digital Everlast to show up. Been off weldng for quite a while. Hope to get back at it this spring.
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Old 01-09-15, 10:11 PM
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I have a Dialarc 250 also. If you are having problems starting/stabilizing the arc at low amp settings make sure and double check your HF spark gap, and make sure the HF electrodes are clean. I believe the proper spark gap is .008". I use a WP-20 for almost everything and a short back cap when needed. Looking at getting a pencil torch, #24 series, to get into the smaller areas, i.e seat stays and chainstays at the bottom bracket. Gas lenses and parts for #20 series torches are available through McMaster Carr (easiest) or anywhere that sells welding supplies
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Old 01-14-15, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by silent1 View Post
I have a Dialarc 250 also. If you are having problems starting/stabilizing the arc at low amp settings make sure and double check your HF spark gap, and make sure the HF electrodes are clean. I believe the proper spark gap is .008". I use a WP-20 for almost everything and a short back cap when needed. Looking at getting a pencil torch, #24 series, to get into the smaller areas, i.e seat stays and chainstays at the bottom bracket. Gas lenses and parts for #20 series torches are available through McMaster Carr (easiest) or anywhere that sells welding supplies

Got any more details on the HF spark gap. That's something I'm not familiar with.
I was welding some .120 wall tubing at work today and the arc does just drop right off when you try and back the pedal off.
Truth be told, this machine is at work. It's all Ive ever used to Tig with but have been doing it for 7 yrs. Mostly maintenance and tool building. I can buy parts and upgrade, but swapping to torches that wont work for the other job functions is a no go.
CK's gas saver was what I was after.
Large Diameter Kits | CK Worldwide

I knew I'd seen a picture but couldn't figure out who sold it. Got it today, will try it tomorrow.
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Old 01-16-15, 01:32 PM
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The Roddy thing is supposed to solve the problem with those CK kits which look the bomb. I think the perceived problem is the CK grate is too far out on the cup, so you get turbulence. You want a section of tube ahead of the grate to get nice covering flow. Be interested in what you think when you get both up and running.
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