That did the trick! Thanks a lot for that tip. I had no idea......

QRs are nice, but keep spares on you just in case someone takes em, or buy nutted skewers. I prefer the shimano type QRs over the "lightweight" variety, but that's just me.

suspension seatposts suck for the most part...they are always too high due to mount easily, or too low once on them to be of much use. The elastomeric kind are too costly...it's cheaper to get a spring saddle if you want that kind of comfort.

I don't like having quick release. They're convenient when I have to take the wheel off, but I can never seem to get them back on just right. It is not a good feeling when you're riding down the street and realize your wheel's about to come off. Having it come off is even worse.

If you have to, mark a portion of the QR nut for alignment purposes...that way you can figure out where the nut has to be for the proper tension.

I'm used to it by feel now. I wish less forks had those stupid tabs on them, so I wouldn't have to mess with the nut anyways.

The trick is to make sure they are tight. When you push the lever into place, it should leave an impression on your palm. When you put the front wheel back on, tighten the nut on the nonlever side with the lever open. Then push the lever closed. If the lever goes into place easily, it's too loose. If it has enough resistance to leave the lever impression on your hand, it's tight enough to hold.

We we came down pretty hard on QRs didn't we.
If you don't need the high security setup then they are probably a better option. For touring, leisure riding, training and racing and when you can store your bike securely then the advantages are several:
fewer tools
lighter weight
quicker release
Better resistance to axle breakage
As I have moved to commute in a less crime-infested area, QRs have crept back ont my everyday bike on the hubs but not on the seatpost.

This is all great information. Thanks to all.

Since my last bike got stolen, I'm a little more sensitive about theft than I was before. But since most of my travelling will be to locations where there is a safe place to keep my bike, I don't need to worry too much.

I have an old 5 speed that might work for hanging out in town, I'll ask the LBS guy how much it would take to get it workable. But for longer rides, I want a truly comfortable and well made bike.

I won't base my purchase on the seat post suspension - if the model comes with it, I'll try it, if I don't like it, it will be easy enough to change.

Ok then, how much advantage is there to front suspension in a comfort bike? It's not like I'll be leaning on my hands.

QR skewers are very useful - for bike thieves. :D

There are distinct advantages to suspension on mountain bikes but I, personally, don't use any kind of suspension on a bike meant for the road. It might take a little of the edge off some cracks in the road but otherwise it's just extra weight. Wide tires can do just about the same thing.

I do find this debate about quick releases to be odd from my own personal experience. In 30 years of riding, including riding to college, I have never had anyone mess with my bike or my wheels. It just doesn't happen where I live and ride - and I don't live in some podunk small town. Denver is a major metropolitan area of about 400,000 in the city and about 1 million including the surrounding suburbs.

Just to add to that, all of the suspension forks I've seen on comfort bikes were of very low quality which meant they had limited adjustment capability (maybe preload, no compression or rebound damping) and also extremely heavy. For roadwork, nice steel fork, wider softer tyres, padded grips and gloves do more to add comfort than a suspension fork.

Same here... I have marked my XC seat post level on my MTB so I can easily return it to the right spot, but do prefer to drop an inch or so when riding technical spots. On my roadie and commuter, it's an allen bolt - I never need to adjust those.

QR on the front wheel is also essential for me for putting the bikes on the roof rack carriers. You can roof rack carriers that clamp on to the downtube, but I'm not particularly keen on doing that on my aluminum MTB or my wife's roadie. If I ever have to lock the bike up, it's a very fast task to remove the front wheel and lock it to the frame.

Suspension seat posts, particularly cheap elastomer ones (which is what would be spec'd on a $500 bike), are IMHO junk. Go for a sprung Brooks saddle instead if you really need it.

PS. The bike I was asking about is a Trek Navigator 100, 14.5" frame, aluminum, no front suspension, but the aforementioned QR on both wheels and seat post. It does have seat post suspension, which like I said, I can keep if I like it. The handle bars are adjustable too - which is interesting.

Better go do a serious test ride.

They do have other makes and models - I'm not stuck on this one.

I also looked a a Fuji Palisade - but for some reason, it didn't appeal to me.