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Opinion on custom build

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Opinion on custom build

Old 09-16-15, 05:57 PM
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Opinion on custom build

-I'm currently riding a Public C7 step-thru and I'm finding it too heavy and also I need higher gears. The bike weighs 32 lbs. w/o the rack

-I use my bike primarily to commute to/from work which involves significant hills. Also I like to go on paved trail rides once in a while. I don't ride in the rain or snow.

-The aesthetics of the bike are very important to me. I want a vintage look, nothing sporty.

YES: https://www.pashley.co.uk/images/prod...in-guv-nor.jpg
NO: https://www.cpsc.gov/PageFiles/139579...ompactDONE.jpg

-I don't want to spend more than $1200.

I can't find anything locally that fits my criteria. I like the look of the Linus bikes but they're not significantly lighter than my current bike (at least not enough to warrant purchasing one)

I paid a visit to my local bike shop and the owner spec'ed out a build for me, keeping weight in mind. He has a vintage 50cm Nishiki frame and suggested the following parts:

Mavic CXP22 rims laced to Shimano Claris hubs $175
Shimano Sora 2x9 pod shifters $122
Shimano Tiagra rear derailleur $58
Shimano Tiagra front derailleur $40
Origin8 Compact road crank $75
Sealed Cartridge Bottom Bracket $14
Orgin8 threaded headset $34
60mm road quill stem $18.
Deda Elementi flat bars $44
Tektro brake levers $38
Tektro caliper brakes $40/ea
Panaracer Pasela Tires $26/ea
Profit Seatpost 25.8mm $30
Brooks B17 in Honey $145
Brooks slender leather grips $90

Vintage frame: $50
Add $230 if I want to paint it

$100 for labor

Any thoughts on the build or suggestions of bikes I should look at? Thanks in advance!

Last edited by mizjennypenny; 09-16-15 at 05:58 PM. Reason: forgot labor cost!
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Old 09-16-15, 07:20 PM
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I like reading through the build-up threads since I'm doing one myself. This caught my eye. Please be aware I am by no means an expert, just an enthusiast.
Couple questions just to get a little more info:
1.) Will this be a comfortable ride for you? Before going through with the build have you been fitted and know that this size frame will work for you?
2.) Is the frame in decent shape and worth the effort? Have you checked it for rust, cracks, etc.?
3.) It's a great thing to support your LBS. Have you worked with this guy before or gotten a recommendation for him? Just wondering because if I'm going to shell out that kind of money, I want to be able to trust that it will be good work.
4.) Just wondering: I checked the Pashley site your photo came from. If you like the vintage look, why not go for something like the Roadster Classic (Roadster 26 Classic | Gentlemens Smaller Frame Bicycle | Pashley) for 585 lbs- sorry, can't find the correct currency sign- I think the conversion rate would make this ~ $904 and then include shipping fees. This would probably be close to your budget and you'd get the look you like, assuming the step-through frame is not a deal breaker and you're not terribly attached to buying local. Just a thought.
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Old 09-17-15, 12:31 PM
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1. This will only be the second bike I've owned so I can't say for certain that any bike other than what I have now is comfortable for me. I think it will take some getting used to. I had a friend measure me and checked several online sources and the 50cm frame should fit me.
2. Yes the frame is in good shape, saw it at the bike shop.
3. I bought my first bike from him and he also did repairs for me. I trust him. He listed out reasons for each component - why he chose it, what advantages it has over cheaper versions, why he didn't choose something more expensive, etc.
4. I couldn't find a weight for the Pashley. Also I'd like more than three speeds. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Last edited by mizjennypenny; 09-17-15 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 09-18-15, 05:41 AM
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First I am surprised there has been little traffic to this question.

The Pashley will weigh a ton and as you mentioned not enough gears for your needs. Internal Geared Hubs are boat anchors, which make the bike back end heavy. Not to say they aren't perfect for some other use but trying to cut down on weight is not one of them.

My concern starts with most likely a medicore frame. Nishiki in my opinion make one great frame the International but it has cantilever brake posts. Not a deal breaker but something to remember. Any other of their frames, Olympic, Laundau are average. The TRI is interesting good tubing but I have not looked at the geometry. What about a different frame, like a Marinoni, or the better Miele's or Ciocc etc. Same price as the Nishiki painted.

Because you might drop almost a G note, buy a better frame.

You posted the Pashely for that vintage look and I like your thinking so why choose a flat bar that won't help that aesthetic at all. What about an upside North Road bar or Sparrow bar or Albatross bar. Check out the thread in C and V about this style.

What about a single ring up front and a large cluster in the rear to really get that grass racer look?

Or if you are partial to your step through you could look at the Soma Buena Vista step through frame. At your height you might be better off with 26" or the 650b wheels, depending on the frame. You certainly will get less or no toe clip overlap with that frame that you will get from the 50 cm Nishiki with 700 rims. If that Nishiki has 27" you could be sure I wouldn't touch it.

Sorry for the novel here but bottom line I don't like the idea, but it is your bike and your needs. Me, I would do something like a modern bike, with a flat bar, and change that bar out to a FSA Metropolitan bar flipped upside down. Modern components. Though out of your budget unless you bought second hand etc, but I saw a Soma San Marcos in my neighbourhood with upside down Albatross bars, brown Brooks saddle with a Campy Nuevo Record derailleur and this bike was sharp. Had 650 wheels. It has the best of both worlds old and new school and it was done right. I wish I had taken a photo.

Hopefully this post will stir the pot and get others to post alternative views.

P.S. Ninety dollar Brooks grips, really? Buy cheap cork and shellac them to match the saddle.

Good luck in what ever you do.
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Old 09-18-15, 06:09 AM
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[MENTION=421979]mizjennypenny[/MENTION] Welcome to the forums...might I suggest that you bring this request over to the C&V area? This is right up the alley of several of the people that "hang out" on that particular area...they (we) can probably help you find a bike like you want...with more of that vintage look...and keep the price down quite a bit...particularly if you are willing to outfit it with vintage components!

Just a suggestion...
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Old 09-18-15, 07:08 AM
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Sounds like a fair deal to me. However, if you are prepared to be patient and look around you might find an actual vintage bike in good condition for much less money. Of course, it wouldn't have the modern groupset etc.
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Old 09-18-15, 07:23 AM
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Some pictures would help. What kind of frame are we talking about? $280 for a bike is a fair amount of money for a bike. You could pick up a basic steel frame and have the shop fix it up as you want. I'd talk to the shop about a build along the lines you suggest using a surly or a soma frame as well.
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Old 09-18-15, 07:41 AM
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Thank you for your input - I should say that I know next to nothing about bikes, parts, components, measurements, etc. I will see if I can find any of the frames you suggested but I don't really have the time nor inclination to scour ebay and craigslist, and I certainly don't have the knowledge base.

I am not wedded to the step-thru - in fact I'd prefer a flat bar bike.

The handlebars might not match the aesthetic but the rationale for them was to have something I'm comfortable with. I'm not used to a responsive bike with dropped positioning so for now I'd prefer handlebars that are more similar to what I am used to.

The Soma San Marcos is sexxxxy!

Regarding the grips - he said there were a few places we could shave off money so perhaps that should be one!

I don't have a photo of the frame unfortunately. And I don't have to get it painted, that's just a stylistic choice, in which case the frame would be $50.

Originally Posted by blakcloud
First I am surprised there has been little traffic to this question.
...
Hopefully this post will stir the pot and get others to post alternative views.

P.S. Ninety dollar Brooks grips, really? Buy cheap cork and shellac them to match the saddle.

Good luck in what ever you do.
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Old 09-18-15, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by mizjennypenny
Thank you for your input - I should say that I know next to nothing about bikes, parts, components, measurements, etc. I will see if I can find any of the frames you suggested but I don't really have the time nor inclination to scour ebay and craigslist, and I certainly don't have the knowledge base.

I am not wedded to the step-thru - in fact I'd prefer a flat bar bike.

The handlebars might not match the aesthetic but the rationale for them was to have something I'm comfortable with. I'm not used to a responsive bike with dropped positioning so for now I'd prefer handlebars that are more similar to what I am used to.

The Soma San Marcos is sexxxxy!

Regarding the grips - he said there were a few places we could shave off money so perhaps that should be one!

I don't have a photo of the frame unfortunately. And I don't have to get it painted, that's just a stylistic choice, in which case the frame would be $50.
The reason for drop bars is that they have many different hand positions for riding while flat bars really only have one, unless you put some type of extensions on them. You can always ride on the flat part of the drop bars for most of your ride, until you get comfortable with the other positions. And it doesn't take much time to learn to ride on the hoods, so you can use modern brifters. And then you can also use the curve between the hoods and the flats. And then you have the hooks and drops, once you get used to the other positions.

GH
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