Today's ride idea
12-17-15, 12:11 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Today's ride idea
Today's ride idea !
Maxed out in Lo/Lo on a hill in snow & wind. Need 1 more gear :-)
Figured out a way to approach putting a bigger gear on a cassette of us guys who need help climbing.
Limit the throw of the shifters with an interlocking cables between shifters that limits each shifter to
a range depending what position the other sifter is in.
50/34 crank, & say a 8, 9, 10, 11 speed 11 - 42 cassette
If front shifter is in the 50 , the interlock cable only allows the rear shifter to step thru 11 thru 25
If in any gear between 11-25 can only be in 50, (same for 17 - 42 only in 34)
to go lower, you have to shift the front in 34, then can shift from 17 - 42
Coming back up, 34 stops at 17 have to shift into 50, but could shift to 50 a few gears earlier.
Have some overlap in the mid range cassette gears.
Now to get the Sram & Shimano engineers to figure out the mechanics inside the shifters to make the
shifters communicate with each other. A brake, a detent, a cam?? .
Reduces chain length, cross chaining, rear derailleur cage length & allows for a larger cassette gear.
Gives lower gears for the steep hills, easier on the knees.
Added weight of the interconnecting cable is offset by a shorter chain & derailleur
On the electronic shifters, a small center of bar "heads up bike computer display/PLC" touch screen .
Monitors cadence, speed & terrain, Has GPS. maps ... >>> ,
Auto shifting range for a cadence/speed/watts setting that's selected by the rider.
PLC selects the best gearing for conditions. Keeps the rider in a selected cadence/watts range.
(Rest , re-coup, coast modes. Has a manual override, to give control back to the rider)
Maxed out in Lo/Lo on a hill in snow & wind. Need 1 more gear :-)
Figured out a way to approach putting a bigger gear on a cassette of us guys who need help climbing.
Limit the throw of the shifters with an interlocking cables between shifters that limits each shifter to
a range depending what position the other sifter is in.
50/34 crank, & say a 8, 9, 10, 11 speed 11 - 42 cassette
If front shifter is in the 50 , the interlock cable only allows the rear shifter to step thru 11 thru 25
If in any gear between 11-25 can only be in 50, (same for 17 - 42 only in 34)
to go lower, you have to shift the front in 34, then can shift from 17 - 42
Coming back up, 34 stops at 17 have to shift into 50, but could shift to 50 a few gears earlier.
Have some overlap in the mid range cassette gears.
Now to get the Sram & Shimano engineers to figure out the mechanics inside the shifters to make the
shifters communicate with each other. A brake, a detent, a cam?? .
Reduces chain length, cross chaining, rear derailleur cage length & allows for a larger cassette gear.
Gives lower gears for the steep hills, easier on the knees.
Added weight of the interconnecting cable is offset by a shorter chain & derailleur
On the electronic shifters, a small center of bar "heads up bike computer display/PLC" touch screen .
Monitors cadence, speed & terrain, Has GPS. maps ... >>> ,
Auto shifting range for a cadence/speed/watts setting that's selected by the rider.
PLC selects the best gearing for conditions. Keeps the rider in a selected cadence/watts range.
(Rest , re-coup, coast modes. Has a manual override, to give control back to the rider)
12-17-15, 04:20 AM
#2
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11-42??? A triple up front maybe???
12-17-15, 07:53 AM
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un-necessary and too complicated with VERY limited consumer demand IMO.
12-17-15, 02:18 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Share new ideas, Crazy out of the box thinking 
Idiots,
Idiots,
12-17-15, 04:03 PM
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1. Size the chain for large x large and just don't use the small ring x smaller cogs where slack results. Trying those gears will be noisy but shouldn't break anything
2. Use a longer rear derailleur cage.
3. Run a triple crank. A 24 ring on the 74mm BCD inner position of a road triple with a 30 tooth cog is the same gear as 34x42
12-17-15, 04:07 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You have three easy options:
1. Size the chain for large x large and just don't use the small ring x smaller cogs where slack results. Trying those gears will be noisy but shouldn't break anything
2. Use a longer rear derailleur cage.
3. Run a triple crank. A 24 ring on the 74mm BCD inner position of a road triple with a 30 tooth cog is the same gear as 34x42
1. Size the chain for large x large and just don't use the small ring x smaller cogs where slack results. Trying those gears will be noisy but shouldn't break anything
2. Use a longer rear derailleur cage.
3. Run a triple crank. A 24 ring on the 74mm BCD inner position of a road triple with a 30 tooth cog is the same gear as 34x42
+1
12-17-15, 11:35 PM
#10
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Why bother making something simple that works more complicated.
Rather than some kind of lockout system, why not just use a chain long enough to loop the big/big combination, and a rear derailleur with enough capacity to take up the slack in the small/small combination.
That's been working fine for over half a century.
On the off chance that you cannot find a derailleur with capacity for your super wide gearing range, you can keep the chain long enough for big/big, and accept that the granny will only be usable with the larger few sprockets on the cassette.
Rather than some kind of lockout system, why not just use a chain long enough to loop the big/big combination, and a rear derailleur with enough capacity to take up the slack in the small/small combination.
That's been working fine for over half a century.
On the off chance that you cannot find a derailleur with capacity for your super wide gearing range, you can keep the chain long enough for big/big, and accept that the granny will only be usable with the larger few sprockets on the cassette.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
