wphamilton

You're putting extra wear on the cassette with the cheaper chain, so that's gonna cost you eventually.

vinnyvincent

Is sunrace really that low quality that it would make a noticeable difference? It did break a link within the first 20 miles, so there's that...My rear cassette is a sunrace...

cruiserhead

Sunrace chains are actually made of crushed chipmunk toenails. So yeah, they won't last long.

wphamilton

No I don't think it would make a difference. So the A-B test is a go then?

vinnyvincent

Sure I don't see why not. I've already put the SRAM chain back on with finish line dry, so I will have to make that the finish line chain. When I switch to the sunrace, I will use only homebrew.

However, I want to keep track of the miles separately instead of alternating. I really did not enjoy cleaning all that gunk from the drive train, so would like to at least not have to do that as often while I test out the finish line.

Doctor Morbius

Shaven yak butter is the best!

bobwysiwyg

Great, now Yak lard futures are going to through the roof.

vinnyvincent

Poor Yaks never stood a chance as a species this day and age. Is anyone paying a little more for the sustainable farmed yak oils?

Wheever

This is an urban legend. They are actually made from crushed porcupine quills.

avidone1

Is it time to lock this post or are we still having too much fun?

vinnyvincent

I got the info I needed already and I'm sure anyone opening it has as well.

Doctor Morbius

I read somewhere that the Global Yak Syndicate is going to slow production causing prices to skyrocket. So typical.

bargeon

Yeah, but the word isn't out yet on Bag Balm. You can corner the market and tell your wife it's for her. She can lube your chain and soften her hands at the same time. (Wait, that didn't sound right)





Not as udderly ridiculous as it sounds

cruiserhead

Seriously, can we stay on topic?

Yak butter is a good alternative to pure yak fat. The butter goes further because of it's refined nature.

OldsCOOL

I love chain lube threads. In winter.

cruiserhead

Chain lube? I thought we were talking about breakfast.

OldsCOOL

Gross. Makes me want to YAK.

nmuscadyne

Industrial chain manufacturers and suppliers have recommendations for lubrication of their products on their websites. For chains of the dimensions with which we are concerned, in open configurations such as we are dealing with, without exception they specify 30 weight motor oil. I'm not advocating a position, and do not claim to have any more knowledge than anyone else, but it sure is an interesting point of reference.

FBinNY 

A point of clarification. Do they say 30wt motor oil, or machine oil?

Also people wishing to follow this advice, should understand that a straight 30wt oil, is different than a 10-30 mutigrade oil, which will act like a 10wt at ambient temperatures and only act like a 30wt at high engine operating temps. If you want to use a multigrade for whatever reason, you need to consider the lower (cold) value, not the higher hot value.

Also, if you read the rest of the instructions, they usually specify running the chain with continuous oiling, either by having the lowest sprocket partly submerged in an oil bath, or by using a drip oiler which adds a drop or two at intervals. Neither option is practical on bicycle chains.

nmuscadyne

[QUOTE=FBinNY;18483895]A point of clarification. Do they say 30wt motor oil, or machine oil?

Again, I don't claim to be giving advise. I have just assumed motor oil, since the specification is SAE 30 wt., and the SAE deals with automotive engineering. Just curious, what is the difference?

If I recall correctly, this is specified for "type A" or "type 1“ manual lubrication, which is an application every 8 hours under typical conditions, whatever that is. I'm guessing that the eight hours is chosen to coincide with the usual work shift. The recommendation is the same, however, for bath type or drip lubrication methods.

Is SAE 30 wt. the best for a bicycle chain under normal temperatures, or would something else be appropriate? What about an evaporating solvent?

wvridgerider

Back to Yak lube, I mean chain lube.
I have been using this for several years and it works great, and I spray quite a bit on the chain when I lube it.

nmuscadyne

I'm fascinated by this subject.

Like everyone else on this forum, I really don't like a dirty chain or the "tattoo" where my lower leg contacts the dirty chain. I understand, however, that the black stuff is metal powder which results from the wear of the chain. The black is a normal wear product, red is bad because it is iron oxide or rust.

Detergent motor oil maintains the metal powder, which results from wear, in suspension and transports it to the outside, or the sides of the chain, where it is ugly and makes marks.

My question is this: if the outside of the chain does not become black and dirty, what happens to the wear products of the chain? Do they stay on the wear surfaces and enhance further wear?

FBinNY 

the biggest differences relate to the various additives, such as detergent and sulfur. Motor oil has to perform inside a hot engine and, for instance, has additive to keep it from burning or forming tar or varnish when the film on the inside cylinder walls is exposed to the hot combustion gasses. Machine oil works in machinery, such as pumps, lathes, milling machines, etc. where there's no combustion happening.

As for what's best for a bicycle chain, I won't go there (even though I sell chain oil). There are too many other considerations besides such as weather, dirt, ease of use, service interval etc. Debating the "best" chain lube is like debating the "best" beer. We can separate good from bad, but when we get down to the short list, it's impossible to make meaningful comparisons, because it's as much about personal preference as it is about the beer itself.

If you want advice, mine is to decide what factors you deem important, experiment with a few rated highly by people with similar needs, ie. Pacific Northwest vs. Arizona desert, work up a short list, then experiment with a few noting the pluses and minuses, then decide for yourself.

BTW - depending on where you live and how you ride you might end up like many serious riders with different winter and summer preferences, or one for the road bike and another for the mtn bike, or whatever.

Lastly, don't overthink this ---- it's chain lube, not an answer to global warming.

Gresp15C

You can always try the famous Sturmey Archer combination IGH and drip oiler.

nmuscadyne

I couldn't agree with you more.

I've been out of cycling for over 40 years. Just got back in last year, and am absolutely amazed at how quickly the strength and endurance comes back. The health benefits are incredible to those who haven't given it a try.

I have nowhere near the knowledge base that you do. I am certainly not challenging you in any way, as your product is clearly highly regarded. While bicycles are very simple, the cutting edge technologies are not, and are really fun to study.

I look forward to following your posts and learning about this great sport.