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Originally Posted by goraman
(Post 18568875)
Did you Proffide the top and bottom one time before doing your 400 miles?
A guy 200lbs will break in that saddle with in 400 miles a 160 lb. guy will take twice that. You also need to back off the tension bolt one possibly two turns it provides just a little slack while breaking in.\ After its broken in you can retention. I wanted a 100 mile saddle. Could only last 45 miles on the Brooks. |
Thanks for the replies.
Could I get some good saddle recommendations for saddles that will keep you comfortable for at least 50 miles? I understand it varies for people, but I would like a general idea. I have sit bones that are between 125mm and 130mm. Should I opt for a 155mm saddle before a 143mm? I was considering a Specialized Toupe with titanium rails. What do you guys think about that saddle for 50 mile rides and over? I'm open to anything comfortable :). |
Originally Posted by slimyfrog
(Post 18533226)
Measuring sit bones never did anything good for me. I just had to try seats until I found one that worked.
If there's one near you, Performance Bike has a great return policy and will let you buy and return seats until you find one that fits you. Even though they may not have a brand you like, I found it to be a good way to find a general shape and padding that worked for me. |
A good cheap saddle: Charge Spoon : Wiggle | Charge Spoon Saddle with Cromo Rails | Performance Saddles
A good mid priced leather saddle: Spa Cycles Aire leather : SPA CYCLES Aire Leather Saddle :: £45.00 :: Parts & Accessories :: Saddles - Leather :: Spa Cycles, Harrogate - The touring cyclists specialist. A good higher priced leather saddle: Brooks B17 : Wiggle | Brooks England B17 Standard Saddle | Leisure Saddles there are loads more |
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I got a B17 a couple of weeks ago. First time I rode it, it was like riding a 6" steel pipe. By third time it felt like sitting on a bench. Last Wednesday I went for a three and a half hour ride. The saddle was just there!... No pressure points, no chafe points, just there...
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Went through 6 saddles in my first year on the bike. One would be comfortable for awhile, then just turn evil on me. Turned out most of that was due to weight loss and simply couldn't be avoided. Ran a Fabric Scoop Shallow for a few thousand, then it got uncomfortable, replaced it with a Serfas Ghost, which was pretty good... then just yesterday replaced that with a Fabric Line Shallow, and it's the best saddle I've ever used. No break-in period, no acclimation period, nothing. Just comfortable from moment one. Would I recommend it? Well, if your butt, build, and riding position are all the same as mine, absolutely.
But in the end, asking for the best saddle on the internet is akin to asking for the best color hat. Everyone has a favorite that won't mean anything to you. |
There are variations between mountain bike and road cycling saddles – mountain bike saddles are usually made from stronger, more durable materials, and road bike saddles tend to be lighter, for example – but fundamentally, the things you need to consider to find one that suits you are the same.
[h=2]Cover[/h]Most modern saddles use synthetic materials, although you'll still find real leather on more expensive ones. The key thing is to make sure any seams, sticky bits or reinforcing panels don't chafe. Mountain bike saddles are likely to suffer crashes, so a hard-wearing cover is essential. [h=2]Shell[/h]The base of the saddle controls the basic shape and how springy it is. Several manufacturers produce different width or shaped shells for different physiques. The majority of saddles have a Nylon shell, but often there'll be some carbon reinforcement. Really posh perches have all-carbon shells. [h=2]Grooves or cutouts[/h]Some saddle shells have a groove in the centre or a hole cut out – this is designed to reduce pressure and heat around your sensitive veins and nerves. [h=2]Padding[/h]Padding distributes pressure from your behind across the surface of the saddle. Polyurethane foam is the most common padding material - it comes in a range of densities to give firm or soft saddles. The crucial thing to remember is that while a soft, deep saddle might feel comfortable at first for a beginner, more contact and movement is likely to increase heat and discomfort the longer you're in the saddle. |
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