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LtAldoRaine 03-04-16 11:52 PM

Help with a purchase
 
Hello, I'm posting this because I just want to ask a question. Is this bike worth $250? It was initially listed at $350 and I told them I would give them $120 for it, they passed. Now they have it listed at $250 but I still feel that's a bit steep for this particular bike. I also don't know a whole lot about the technicalities of bikes so I was just wondering if someone could tell me if its worth that? I like the bike but don't want to pay $250 for it. Thanks to anyone who replies.


Trek 1000 54cm

canklecat 03-05-16 12:52 AM

Assuming everything is in good shape and you want the bike now, offer $150. If they pass, move on to the next bike. Chances are they'll reduce the price again in a month or so. I see a lot of bikes on craigslist relisted over a period of months with price reductions until they finally sell. Some sellers need time to adjust their minds.

HTupolev 03-05-16 02:09 AM


Originally Posted by LtAldoRaine (Post 18585424)
Is this bike worth $250?

Vintage bikes are funky. Most of them don't really have any collector value, and the market is rich with nice specimens.

If you like it and it's actually in good condition, then from a functional point of view $250 isn't a bad price for what a bike like that is offering. Downtubes are a slower interface than brifters, older brakes typically need a stronger squeeze that the modern stuff, and you might wind up with a higher granny than you'd get these days, but a good bike from a few decades ago can still be a well-built machine that offers a very good ride. Not to mention, that bike is pretty hot, and even if it was a crap bike, hotness is probably worth ten or twenty watts.

On the other hand, it probably wouldn't take all that much effort to secure a bike that offers a similar ride for cheaper, or potentially even that bike for cheaper if someone else doesn't grab it.

CliffordK 03-05-16 03:26 AM

That bike looks like it is in excellent condition for a 30 year old bike. Although, if it hasn't been recently tuned, it would be due for a comprehensive tuneup. Can you do it yourself?

In my opinion, any road bike that is fully functional, and is not a Schwinn Varsity or a Huffy is worth at least $200. But there is a lot of compression of bikes in the $200 to $400 range, then a bit of a jump to some superb bikes worth $700 or $800, and another jump for those worth in excess of a grand.

However, the Trek 1000 was a low to mid range bike for Trek. As a bonus, I believe it was made in the USA. And, unlike the Vitus bikes, it has a welded aluminum frame, and should be a solid bike.

It depends a bit on what your goal is, but it should be a decent entry level road bike/commuter.

Of course, there are a lot of changes and innovations that have happened since 1987. Handlebar stems have changed, but the quills are fully functional.

Perhaps the two biggest things you are missing are "Brifters", and a rear cassette. But the technology in that bike is well proven technology, and for the most part, still in use today.

If you're hoping for a classic show bike, perhaps you could hold out for a Trek 2000 or better.

If you want a good every day bike, then this one would be a good model.

$200 to $250 wouldn't be a bad price for the bike as in the ad.

Retro Grouch 03-05-16 06:59 AM

What are you trying to accomplish?

Is your goal to make sure that you get the best possible deal or you looking to acquire a bike that you can ride? You might have to compromise one or the other. Meanwhile the seller is having a similar choice: he wants the most money for his bike but, until he sells it, he gets zero.

I'd go to the bank and get 5 $50.00 bills. Put 3 of them in one pocket and wave them in front of the seller as if that's all that you have. Just keep the conversation going until the two of you find a balance point. A year from now you will have forgotten if you paid a little more or a little less, but you'll still have the bike unless you drive too hard of a bargain - then you'll still be looking for a bike.

dedhed 03-05-16 07:11 AM


Originally Posted by CliffordK (Post 18585518)
As a bonus, I believe it was made in the USA. And, unlike the Vitus bikes, it has a welded aluminum frame, and should be a solid bike.


Bonded frame
http://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...mFacts1987.pdf

dedhed 03-05-16 07:17 AM

Your market will tell you what it's worth as they location matters. I had an '88 Trek 1000 - I paid a case of beer for it.


It was a good bike that I commuted many miles on for a number of years until I built a new commuter and gave it away. The only issue I had was the Matrix rim on the rear started hairline cracking at the spokes (panniers on, crappy midwestern roads) although that wheelset is still in use on my sons bike

JerrySTL 03-05-16 07:43 AM

I owned a 1993 Trek 1100 which was about the same bike with a triple. It's an aluminum frame with a chrome-moly fork. The ride was very harsh. The quill stem did break after many, many miles of riding. Other than that, it was a very good bike. I think I paid around $700 for it.

I like Retro Grouch's idea with the $50 bills, but I'd only bring 4 of them.

CliffordK 03-05-16 01:11 PM


Originally Posted by dedhed (Post 18585672)

Thanks,

I have a Trek 1000SL frame that is definitely welded, but must have been a decade and a half newer than the OP's frame.

I have been riding on a Schwinn bonded aluminum fork (used purchase, unknown model & history), on my winter commuter for a little over a year without any issues.

I suppose one would want to check all the joints very closely.

Nonetheless, the bonded aluminum might give the bike a bit more of a classic/vintage feel rather than the more ordinary welded aluminum bikes you can buy at Walmart.


Originally Posted by Retro Grouch (Post 18585657)
I'd go to the bank and get 5 $50.00 bills. Put 3 of them in one pocket and wave them in front of the seller as if that's all that you have.

Personally I dislike making an appointment without the anticipating of actually buying something, nor do I plan on yanking someone's chain. I've had enough sellers do that to me. :eek:

But if you do choose to dicker, then if all you have are $50 bills, your bids will likely increment by $50. Perhaps fill the last one with 2 $20's and 1 $10.

LtAldoRaine 03-09-16 11:46 PM

You all were great, thank you for your responses even thought I'm seeing this a few days after I posted! I think I will hold out for now. I'm sure I will find something better

pat5319 03-10-16 02:24 AM

For future reference, As a general rule Aluminum bikes, (except "early" models with tube diameters of apx. one inch), tend to transmit a lot if shock and vibration to you body. On shorter rides and smooth pavement they work fine but, on longer rides and rough pavement they will " beat you up". Hydrofromed tubing is supposed to help some say (salespeople) but, others say (mechanics) it doesn't help much. Steel and Titanium bikes have smooth rides and lifetime guarantees than Carbon bikes that sometimes have "smooth" rides and lifetime guarantees, carbon bikes sometimes will have shorter guarantees or lifetime guarantees with "exceptions"

Maelochs 03-10-16 07:53 PM

If yuo really love that particular bike, and it fits you perfectly, buy it. if not, sit back and watch the ads. For $250 you can get a lot of bike if you are patient.

Also, if you are willing to spend $250, you should be looking at bikes listing for $300 or maybe $350.

Seriously, go looka t a $300 bike with five $50 bills, and if the guy wont budge, pull out your wallet and pull out like $27.50 is fives and ones and quarters, and say, "Cash, dude----this cash could be in your pocket ,.... or it could go back in mine,. I am ready to buy the bike Right Now, if you want to sell it." Cash money speaks pretty loudly.

On the other hand, as Retro Grouch says, a year from now you won't know or care how much you paid for it, if it is a good bike. If you Seriously Have to Have the bike, tell the guy you need to run to the ATM, drive around the block, and hand him two more twenties. After all, all he gets is paper, but you get a bike.


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