Actuation of Shifters
 

I test rode a road bike I like (Kona Zing), and there is one thing I do not like (or am not used to, at least): that is the distance my fingers must travel to make an upshift. When I squeeze a (Sora) lever in, I feel it is necessary to press it much farther than I would prefer.
I am going from down-tube shifters.
What I would like is this: Almost a feather-trigger on the shifter, where I do not have to press more than 1" to get a fast, clean shift. Are there shifters with this type of response sensitivity?

Are you referring to the left shifter? They all have a pretty long throw to make an upshift on the front derailleur. The right shifter should not have a very long throw. If you want a feather touch, you need electronic shifting.

No, basically I meant both the right and left. Is it just a setting? Maybe I can adjust that out to get quicker response. Rather not go with electronic.

I don't think you can adjust the throw on any shifters. It's built-in . You can look for a bike with different model such as Tiagra, or different brand such as SRAM.

I have Campagnolo 10 speed shifters and would prefer a bit less throw with them, but just got used to it.

It could be just that you're not used to these shifters. If you really want different shifters try SRAM Red or Di2. Both are expensive.

Yeah, I'm definitely not used to them. They are only the second pair of combination shifter/brakes that I have felt, the other being on a 2015 Domane (those felt the same). I'd actually go back to down-shifters, but I'd never get a clamp onto the triangular downtube of the Kona.

Long throw on the front to get to the big ring not unique to brifters.
Same with SRAM triggershifters on two of my bikes. Been so long since I used downtube shifters that I can't say how they compare.

Try Shimano 105 or better, or SRAM Force or better. The Sram shifting is a bit different and those shifter have so called "zero loss" which is less free travel before the pawls engage. Better cables make the the shifting easier and more precise. In any case, it is something one becomes accustomed to. Anybody accustomed to using these types of shifters would have a period of adjustment switching to down tube shifters, and likely be just as appalled as you are going the other way.

You could could give bar ends a try.

SRAM Rival, Force, or Red give quick (short throw) up shifts on the rear dérailleur, not so much on the front. The rear down shifts are longer throw because you are using the same lever to release the cable (double tap).

I thought the same thing, but you get use to it. I don't think you can adjust the throw. You could move the position of the brifters on the bars, perhaps, but that probably isn't the problem.

electronic shifting

Hmmm. Very interesting. I've never used those. I'll give it some thought. Otherwise, I'll just do my best to acclimate myself to the brifters, like some suggest. If they do not appeal to me, I guess I'll try the SRAM Force.
I don't mind running friction, and was looking at an older bike maintenance book that depicted and described Suntour "dual lever" shifters, which seemed to mount on the inner side of the brake lever housing, and looked like a see-saw, of sorts. I'm just throwing that one up there in an attempt to discuss possible other (even obscure) shifting systems.
Can a shifter boss be brazed (or otherwise secured) onto a 7005 alloy downtube?

Gevenalle may have something that appeals to you. Shifters Archives - Gevenalle

I am sure you know, but you can get bar end shifters with indexing.
Problem solvers make these covers which don't look bad.

EDIT:

Never mind you want to add them not remove them. You could use these.

Those would be okay if my downtube were round. The Zing has a somewhat large, hydroformed, triangular downtube.

All I've found, so-far, is this: Bolt on Downtube Shifter Lever Bosses | eBay

...but I'm not sure I want to drill my downtube and the curvature of the boss reinforcement plates might need to be modified.

One thing that crossed my mind was to somehow turn the stock cable stops (on underside of downtube at headtube) into shift bosses.

Yes, older Cannondales used rivet and through-bolt downtube shifter bosses.

A few holes in the downtube to attach them worked pretty well.

Try higher grade shifters ideally 105 or Ultegra, the shift action is faster and lighter.

I have those Sun Tour shifters, used with Superbe Pro 7 spd. They work, but it's kind of a kluge. I think when Shimano came out with STi Sun Tour was on its last legs and this was an expedient. The front shifter is just friction. The rear (at least the Accushift Plus model I have) can be set for 7 spd index or friction. I suppose the friction setting might work for >7 spd drivetrains if it pulls enough cable. Basic function is identical to DT shifters, just moved up to the brake lever pivot points.

scott s.
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Thanks for the information on the Suntour dual-lever, Scott. Homeb: I found some of those bolt-through downtube boss pairs, online: I thought they might work, but they would probably need a round tube to mount securely. It looks like Barcons is my only option so-far. The Suntour dual-lever wouldn't work, because I will be using 9-speed.

I suggest you try hard to get used to the new STI levers. Once you get used to them you can shift and brake at the same time. An example would be slowing down quickly to a stop, and being in the correct low gear by the time you stop.

Thanks, ds. I might like to try those Audax.

I'll give it a go.

I have found that the Sram "double tap" shifters have a shorter throw than Shimano for those shifts. If you can find a Sram-equipped bike to ride, give it a try. They work much better for me because of this. I have a physical problem with my wrist and elbow and the shimano shifts cause some pain with the big sweeping throw. Sram shifters are a much smaller action, finger tips only.

Sure Di2 shifters are just plain expensive, but Sram shifters are not any more expensive than the comparable Shimano shifters. You mentioned Red - yes they're the highest end. but Apex and Rival work the same and are inexpensive (but good).

[QUOTE=Camilo;18672467]I have found that the Sram "double tap" shifters have a shorter throw than Shimano for those shifts. If you can find a Sram-equipped bike to ride, give it a try. They work much better for me because of this. I have a physical problem with my wrist and elbow and the shimano shifts cause some pain with the big sweeping throw. Sram shifters are a much smaller action, finger tips only.

Hi Cam. I was looking at the double-tap shifters today! I don't know whether-or-not they would work with Shimano derailleurs. On my MTB, I had to buy (9sp) SRAM Attack shifters to use with my Shimano derailleurs. (I chose Attack over Deore). The SRAM X7 system would not work with my XT rear derailleur.
I'm at the point now that I am looking at Shimano SL-BS77 bar end shifters (probably what I'll end up with), and Shimano 600 downtube shifters. I am trying to determine whether-or-not I can glue the shift bosses onto my downtube with 3M DP460 epoxy, after preparing the surfaces. Some say yes, some say no.

I am sorry to hear about your wrists. Did you mount the double-tap shifters on the straight part of your drop bars?