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Road aluminium cassette gouging

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Road aluminium cassette gouging

Old 04-10-16, 05:46 AM
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Hiroller
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Road aluminium cassette gouging

Hi there cycling brains trust.

I've just taken off a 10sp Ultegra cassette off my DT Swiss 240 road hubs and I've found that the cassette has gouged into the aluminium free hub splines. I've never had this issue before as I've always had Shimano wheels with steel freehubs and I decided to go to DT Swiss as they were a lot lighter than the Shimano 105 hubs they replaced.

A couple of questions:
1) Has anyone else had this problem?
2) What can I do to fix/prevent the problem without replacing the free hub as a new free hub is pretty expensive?

Cheers
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Old 04-10-16, 05:52 AM
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Everyone who has an aluminum freehub body has had this problem to some extent. Its not really as bad as it looks. If there are any high spots that cause a problem, file them down.
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Old 04-10-16, 06:33 AM
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+1. It's very common and is only a problem if it causes as problem. It can get bad enough where it becomes very difficult to remove a cassette (use two chain whips, etc.), in which case it's probably time to change it.
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Old 04-10-16, 07:26 AM
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"They all do that", the price you pay for saving a bit of weight with Shimano design.
Campagnolo design doesn't have the problem because the splines are deeper, so the load is spread out more.

American Classic or someone made steel shims to protect the hub, but not sure if they're still available.
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Old 04-10-16, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01 View Post
American Classic or someone made steel shims to protect the hub, but not sure if they're still available.
^^^This.

It should be an easy search. Results seem decent. I haven't heard of any problems but I haven't looked.

Short of buying a new hub that addresses this problem, I don't know of any other long term remedies.


BTW, the previous poster was right. Campagnolo doesn't have this issue. It's a Shimano thing.


Shimano tired to fix it with deeper splines on DA but I think the smaller bearings had durability issues. Just a guess. So they went back to what we have now.

And really, it's not a GIANT problem. Aside from occasionally having to use a seriously large sized screwdriver to pry your cassette from you freehub it's honestly not the poor freehub's fault; It's the cassette, itself being true to it's design.
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Old 04-10-16, 08:43 PM
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Make sure that your cassette it torqued tightly onto the freehub body. That will squeeze the cogs together more so that they work on the freehub body as a unit rather than as 10 individual cogs.
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Old 04-10-16, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
Make sure that your cassette it torqued tightly onto the freehub body. That will squeeze the cogs together more so that they work on the freehub body as a unit rather than as 10 individual cogs.
That does help but the cogs will always find their own happy place and settle into the gouges they make on the freehub. The more points of contact you have the smaller they are and the more notches they generate. Once they've settled in it's no longer an issue beyond removal and sometimes creaking under load.

Oh, and it looks like crap.
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Old 04-11-16, 04:01 AM
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The Aluminum Dura Ace 7800 10s freehubs also had deep splines. Later replaced with titanium freehubs.

The deep splines are reflected in some of the 10s cassettes. I'm surprised that DT doesn't seem to offer a similar deep spline version of their freehub, although apparently the technology was abandoned by Shimano.
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