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Crank Set Question
Hi All.
New to the forums. I ride a bit of hills. I currrently use a Force 22 with a 50/34. I want ot change to a 46T/34. Which one should I be purchasing? |
You can just change your big ring from 50 to 46. You may need to get another FD after if shifting start to suffer but I usually don't bother unless I have CX specific FD handy (I use shimano and cx50 FD was designed to work with smaller chainrings)
FSA will be making 48/32T, 46/36T, 46/30T soon, FSA Omega MegaExo - Full Speed Ahead. If you decide to change entire crankset - makes sure you get appropriate BB. Another option is to change cassette but again you may need another RD |
A cheaper option might be changing the cassette in the back to something with a wider range, maybe a 11-28 or something.
Also, why change the big ring if you're keeping the small ring the same? Just drop down to the 34 for the steeper hills, keep the 50 for descending. Edit: but if you really want to limit your gearing: http://www.jensonusa.com/!zPZm7t7Rxe...1BsRoCM2Hw_wcB |
Changing your big ring won't give you lower gears than you already have. If you need lower gears, look at your options for a wider range cassette
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Originally Posted by SpeshulEd
(Post 18907869)
Also, why change the big ring if you're keeping the small ring the same? Just drop down to the 34 for the steeper hills, keep the 50 for descending.
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 18908154)
Just speaking for myself, if the only cassette options are 11-X and 12-X, big rings like 50 and 53 create top gears that I'm never going to use. Why waste room on the rear axle with cogs that never get touched? Shrinking the big ring makes the whole cassette more usable, and allows me to stay in the big ring longer before dropping to the small ring. :)
It will give me more of those 16-21 cogs |
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 18908154)
Just speaking for myself, if the only cassette options are 11-X and 12-X, big rings like 50 and 53 create top gears that I'm never going to use. Why waste room on the rear axle with cogs that never get touched? Shrinking the big ring makes the whole cassette more usable, and allows me to stay in the big ring longer before dropping to the small ring. :)
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It is still a lot less expensive to change the rear cassette than a front chain ring. But if you want a good cold forged chainring this will fit on a SRAM force crankset. CYCLOCROSS SETS | Praxis Cycles
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Do any sram ones fit?
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
(Post 18908204)
That is a very good point, but the OP was asking about better gearing for climbing, Changing the big ring may not address that problem
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Originally Posted by bracer028
(Post 18908271)
Would this work?
SRAM x Sync Chainring 46T 110mm BCD Polished Grey Matte Black 10 11SP SRAM Chain | eBay |
Originally Posted by bracer028
(Post 18908260)
Do any sram ones fit?
http://www.bikeman.com/CK5824.html |
I ride in some pretty hilly areas.
I am running a compact double 50/34 and a 12-32 cassette, Sram 22 w/a mid size rear dr cage, shifts great, climbs great and I am no physical marvel believe me. Really nothing to be gained by changing your big ring re: ease of climbing. Going to a triple crank is another deal but it is expensive and, unless you are touring loaded with gear, not really necessary. (In my opinion) |
Originally Posted by Mobile 155
(Post 18908367)
Yes but they are CNC aluminum and wear faster than cold forged. Still here is one.
Bikeman SRAM 11 speed 46 tooth 110mm Chainring Black SRAM Force/Rival/Apex 10 Speed Chainring > Components > Drivetrain > Chainrings | Jenson USA Choose Option: Black, 46 Tooth, for use with 36T |
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