Tarmac - disc or rim brakes?
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Tarmac - disc or rim brakes?
I know this has been beaten to death but I'm going to make a purchase and want some input.
I'm buying a Tarmac (after testing the new Roubaix). Either the Expert or Expert Disc. The only difference that I can find are the shift levers (Ultegra 6800 vs. ST-RS685) and of course the rim brakes (Ultegra) vs. disc brakes (Shimano BR-785 ice-tech). Per Specialized, the weight difference is 3/4 lbs.
Any opinions...besides a different brand? Price difference is $200.
Thanks!
I'm buying a Tarmac (after testing the new Roubaix). Either the Expert or Expert Disc. The only difference that I can find are the shift levers (Ultegra 6800 vs. ST-RS685) and of course the rim brakes (Ultegra) vs. disc brakes (Shimano BR-785 ice-tech). Per Specialized, the weight difference is 3/4 lbs.
Any opinions...besides a different brand? Price difference is $200.
Thanks!
#2
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If you're doing loaded touring in the rain, then go for the disks. Otherwise, the cost and weight penalty is not worth it; rim brakes are more than adequate. Another consideration is the stigma of disks while riding with an experienced pack. Nothing indicates a newb road rider more than disks.
Last edited by Dave Mayer; 09-19-16 at 12:32 PM. Reason: speling
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So the question is whether you should pay an extra $200 for something heavier, less aero, uglier, and don't stop your bike any faster?
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You're correct, it's not listed on their website. I called Specialized. The rep said 1/2 to 3/4 lbs difference.
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The Roubaix was nice and the front shock thingy didn't bother me at all (I'm 165 lbs). I didn't like the upright position and the thick handlebars. Maybe I liked it b/c is was more like my old road bike. I also tested the 2016 Roubaix. It feels similar to the 2017 model.
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#9
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Thanks! Last weeks group ride was strange: 2 riders with disks show up. 110k with lots of sharp corners and descents. Nobody wants to paceline with the disks, due to the risk of being caught up in an inexperience-induced pileup. So the ride turns into a race to constantly stay ahead of the disks, which substantially increases the pace.
Regardless, one of the disks gets shelled off of the back, and nobody seems motivated to wait. On a no-drop ride. The second disk overcooks a steep descent that leads into stop sign. Rider goes over the bars. So the disks are done 1/4 of the way in..
What about the bigger question here.... why should the OP pay for a bike that can be obtained at roughly a 25% discount in a lesser-known brand such as Fuji or Garneau or one of the mail-order house brands? For roughly the same bike... You'd get another 25% discount by buying the carbon frame direct from Asia, and building up with a component kit from the UK...
Regardless, one of the disks gets shelled off of the back, and nobody seems motivated to wait. On a no-drop ride. The second disk overcooks a steep descent that leads into stop sign. Rider goes over the bars. So the disks are done 1/4 of the way in..
What about the bigger question here.... why should the OP pay for a bike that can be obtained at roughly a 25% discount in a lesser-known brand such as Fuji or Garneau or one of the mail-order house brands? For roughly the same bike... You'd get another 25% discount by buying the carbon frame direct from Asia, and building up with a component kit from the UK...
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So you're telling us people shouldn't benefit from all of the many advantages of disc brakes because your club doesn't know what "no drop" means. Better than Seinfeld, I tell you!

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Back to Rim vs Disc again...
Disc brake are the future. They offer the same breaking ability under any weather condition and they are not more dangerous than rim brakes. The UCI is working with manufacturer to dull out/round out the disc edges. In 5 years, you will be ancient dinosaur if you ride with rim break.
Disc brake are the future. They offer the same breaking ability under any weather condition and they are not more dangerous than rim brakes. The UCI is working with manufacturer to dull out/round out the disc edges. In 5 years, you will be ancient dinosaur if you ride with rim break.
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Back to Rim vs Disc again...
Disc brake are the future. They offer the same breaking ability under any weather condition and they are not more dangerous than rim brakes. The UCI is working with manufacturer to dull out/round out the disc edges. In 5 years, you will be ancient dinosaur if you ride with rim break.
Disc brake are the future. They offer the same breaking ability under any weather condition and they are not more dangerous than rim brakes. The UCI is working with manufacturer to dull out/round out the disc edges. In 5 years, you will be ancient dinosaur if you ride with rim break.
I liked the ability to stop with just one finger on the brake / in the drops but did I feel I could not any faster...no. Seems the rims were fine even on the downhills. Keep in mind im not riding in a mountainous area.
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I can lock up both wheels with two fingers on my Ultegra rim brake equipped Tarmac. Discs don't make your tires grippier.
#14
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There you go. You should not want the extra weight, cost and aero penalty of disks.
Further, instead of buying new, you might want to consider buying a used rim-brake based bike from the gullible early adopter types, who felt they absolutely needed disks for dry coffee-shop rides. Much of this 'need' for disks emanates from newb riders, who are likely recent mountain-bike converts. Hence the misguided desire for disks, and other irrelevant and inappropriate features such as sloping top tubes, long head tubes, and suspension features in the frame or post.
BTW: if you can forgo the life-altering advantages of '11-speeds' (sarcasm), you'll save buckets of money, as 10-speed gear has the same functionality, at a fraction of the price. 3 year old bikes sell at a big discount, particularly the high-end stuff, as dentists and other weekend warriors regularly shed their 'obsolete' gear.
Further, instead of buying new, you might want to consider buying a used rim-brake based bike from the gullible early adopter types, who felt they absolutely needed disks for dry coffee-shop rides. Much of this 'need' for disks emanates from newb riders, who are likely recent mountain-bike converts. Hence the misguided desire for disks, and other irrelevant and inappropriate features such as sloping top tubes, long head tubes, and suspension features in the frame or post.
BTW: if you can forgo the life-altering advantages of '11-speeds' (sarcasm), you'll save buckets of money, as 10-speed gear has the same functionality, at a fraction of the price. 3 year old bikes sell at a big discount, particularly the high-end stuff, as dentists and other weekend warriors regularly shed their 'obsolete' gear.
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I have a Roubaix Pro Disc Race 2015 and a Pinarello F8 with rim brakes. I am not a fan of the rim brakes after riding the Roubaix. If I had it to do over I would have gotten discs. The difference is night and day for me. New tech takes time to gain a foothold but it will be on everything soon.
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BTW: if you can forgo the life-altering advantages of '11-speeds' (sarcasm), you'll save buckets of money, as 10-speed gear has the same functionality, at a fraction of the price. 3 year old bikes sell at a big discount, particularly the high-end stuff, as dentists and other weekend warriors regularly shed their 'obsolete' gear.

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I'll have a pair of Enve disc-brake road wheels soon. They're not available for dino-brakes. The rim is designed for aerodynamics, weight and impact resistance, not heat dissipation and to resist clamping force.
Plus when the braking surface wears out I'll be able to replace it for $50 instead of $900.
There's just no looking back.
Plus when the braking surface wears out I'll be able to replace it for $50 instead of $900.

There's just no looking back.

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I'll have a pair of Enve disc-brake road wheels soon. They're not available for dino-brakes. The rim is designed for aerodynamics, weight and impact resistance, not heat dissipation and to resist clamping force.
Plus when the braking surface wears out I'll be able to replace it for $50 instead of $900.
Plus when the braking surface wears out I'll be able to replace it for $50 instead of $900.
I like the feel of disc brakes. I'm not likely to have carbon wheels, but disc brakes make even more sense for people who are interested in carbon wheels.
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I'll have a pair of Enve disc-brake road wheels soon. They're not available for dino-brakes. The rim is designed for aerodynamics, weight and impact resistance, not heat dissipation and to resist clamping force.
Plus when the braking surface wears out I'll be able to replace it for $50 instead of $900.
There's just no looking back.
=
Plus when the braking surface wears out I'll be able to replace it for $50 instead of $900.

There's just no looking back.
=
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I live in a fairly mountainous area and it's nice to know that I can stop quickly when bombing down the side of a mountain at 50 mph. The wet weather stopping isn't a consideration since we're about 5 years into a drought, but power and modulation trumps all.
I have a set of Reynolds Aero 46 discs and they are simply fantastic.
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I see nobody has mentioned perhaps the most important factor of all: The disc version comes in cooler colors. The "satin ink" colorway looks mean.
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Living in Seattle, I can confirm that they're much, much better in the rain, too.
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A lot of wheels use the same rim for disc or rim brakes. I like that some disc wheels don't, that some rims are for one or the other but not both. Like those Enves. They're shaped to cut through the air, not to fit brake pads. The rims themselves are lighter because they're not a braking surface - the weight is moved in, toward the hubs, where the rotational penalty is cheaper.