General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

Pedal removal

Old 12-27-16, 07:22 PM
  #1  
jgw
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Pedal removal

I have a trek FX 7.2. Just got a wahoo bluesc sensor. I need to remove the pedal to install the sensor.

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to get the pedal off (it's stock or stuck). Do I use an Allen wrench or Regular wrench?

I have found YouTube videos on pedal removal, but I am still scratching my head. Anyone want point me in the right direction with a video link, web page or just a word of advice? I understand that the left side pedal is reversed.
jgw is offline  
Old 12-27-16, 07:27 PM
  #2  
badger1
Senior Member
 
badger1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Posts: 3,954
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 972 Post(s)
Liked 15 Times in 13 Posts
Approximate research time: <1 second:

Pedal Installation and Removal | Park Tool

If this doesn't make sense, go to LBS. You're welcome.
badger1 is offline  
Old 12-27-16, 07:35 PM
  #3  
jgw
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the reply. I guess it is my novice nature. For my particular brand I am unsure if I need the Allen wrench or a regular wrench.
jgw is offline  
Old 12-27-16, 07:40 PM
  #4  
jgw
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Wahoo! Got it! Regular wrench. took a lot more force than I expected. The park tool article helped, especially in positioning at less than a 90 degree angle for better leverage. Now how do I get the pedal back on? (just kidding)
jgw is offline  
Old 12-27-16, 07:49 PM
  #5  
badger1
Senior Member
 
badger1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Posts: 3,954
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 972 Post(s)
Liked 15 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by jgw View Post
Wahoo! Got it! Regular wrench. took a lot more force than I expected. The park tool article helped, especially in positioning at less than a 90 degree angle for better leverage. Now how do I get the pedal back on? (just kidding)
You'd better be!
badger1 is offline  
Old 12-27-16, 09:25 PM
  #6  
Homebrew01
Super Moderator
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,021

Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 786 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times in 16 Posts
Originally Posted by jgw View Post
Wahoo! Got it! Regular wrench. took a lot more force than I expected. The park tool article helped, especially in positioning at less than a 90 degree angle for better leverage. Now how do I get the pedal back on? (just kidding)
But seriously, smear a dab of grease on the threads first, and just tighten it "snug"... No need to go nuts tightening, since pedaling will end up tightening it a bit more.

Also, it should go in most of the way by hand. Don't force it with a wrench...it might be cross threaded if it's hard to turn right at the beginning..
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.

FYI: http://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Homebrew01 is offline  
Old 12-27-16, 09:39 PM
  #7  
bulldog1935
Banned.
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Posts: 2,721

Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright

Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
depends on the pedal
I have some Straightline Amp pedals that needs to be torqued or they'll come loose.

Left pedal is LH thread, Right pedal is RH thread.

All modern pedals have a hex socket. Most also have wrench flats.

easiest way to remember on all pedals is tightening top goes to front, loosening top goes to rear

Last edited by bulldog1935; 12-27-16 at 09:43 PM.
bulldog1935 is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 08:05 AM
  #8  
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 22,660

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r

Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2956 Post(s)
Liked 47 Times in 42 Posts
I should get a pedal wrench. my other wrenches can sometimes be a hassle to squeeze into the tight space between the pedal & the crank arm
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 01:26 PM
  #9  
John_V 
Senior Member
 
John_V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 5,297

Bikes: 2017 Colnago C-RS, 2012 Colnago Ace, 2010 Giant Cypress hybrid

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 310 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by jgw View Post
I have a trek FX 7.2. Just got a wahoo bluesc sensor. I need to remove the pedal to install the sensor. .....
Why did you need to remove the pedal to get the magnet on? I also have a Wahoo BlueSC and and it came with a zip tie to hold the magnet on the crank. Another, and in my opinion, better way to do it is to use a rare earth magnet and place it on the end of the pedal spindle, then adjust the sensor so that it passes across the magnet.
__________________
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe ... Ride Hard ... Ride Daily

2017 Colnago C-RS
2012 Colnago Ace
2010 Giant Cypress
John_V is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 01:46 PM
  #10  
decentdrummer91
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
good thing you didn't crank it too hard one way, one time I forgot which way it was supposed to crank and stripped the pedal bolt part...barely got it off after that LOL!
decentdrummer91 is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 02:13 PM
  #11  
bikecrate
Senior Member
 
bikecrate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LF, APMAT
Posts: 2,221
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 423 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by badger1 View Post
Approximate research time: <1 second:

Pedal Installation and Removal | Park Tool

If this doesn't make sense, go to LBS. You're welcome.
I printed out an older version of that and stuck it in my garage. I always pull it out as a refresher when removing the pedals. It has lots of grease stains now.
bikecrate is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 02:43 PM
  #12  
dabac
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,947
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 812 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by bulldog1935 View Post
All modern pedals have a hex socket.
Do you mean "modern" as in "recently produced" or "modern" as in "designed during the last decades"?

There are still plenty of current production cheap flatties that don't have a hex socket.
dabac is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 03:06 PM
  #13  
bulldog1935
Banned.
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Posts: 2,721

Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright

Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I guess I mean modern as in modern thought, though many pedals going back into the 80s have hex socket.
bulldog1935 is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 03:14 PM
  #14  
IrishBrewer 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 304
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Alternatively, get a small neodymium disc magnet and attach it to the pedal spindle if you can. They stay put really well.
IrishBrewer is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 03:34 PM
  #15  
badger1
Senior Member
 
badger1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Posts: 3,954
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 972 Post(s)
Liked 15 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by bikecrate View Post
I printed out an older version of that and stuck it in my garage. I always pull it out as a refresher when removing the pedals. It has lots of grease stains now.
Yep; I've got quite a few of those Park Tool 'how to' thingies laying about -- learning curve detritus.
BTW, your avatar pic -- is that who I think it is? If so, kudos; anyone who 'gets' R A is ok by me!
badger1 is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 07:36 PM
  #16  
jgw
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I took off the pedal because the instructional video I was using said to do so. The provided magnet was in a rubber sleeve that fit right over the crank. I needed to tilt the sensor toward it a bit, this made the rubber band unusable as it kept slipping out of its notch. The zip ties work fine and fit through the holes in the sensor. I assumed that's why the holes were there. Used it this morning and worked great.

As far as my pedals go I could fit an Allen wrench in them but it would not budge. The wrench I ended up using was tough to grip the bolt with. This is why I was confused, it seemed like it took an allenwrench but ultimately didn't, the regular wrench I was using wasn't really the best tool so I kept thinking perhaps I should be using an Allen wrench. Got it sorted and the park tools article helped. I think I might print it out too along with other articles I need along the way.

Thanks for all the help.
jgw is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 08:57 PM
  #17  
ClydeTim
Banned.
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 747

Bikes: Trek

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 264 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Pretty easy concept to remember figuring the threads are different form one another.

Left AND right side:

Tightening pedal, turn toward the front.

Loosening, turn toward the back.
ClydeTim is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 09:16 PM
  #18  
ramzilla
Senior Member
 
ramzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: 10% Atlanta GA 90% Fernandina FL
Posts: 2,438

Bikes: Vintage Japanese Bicycles

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 391 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Sometimes it's just not that easy. I've had to remove the crank arms and disassemble the pedal itself ............. then,,, ... use a 14" pipe wrench to "bust" the pedal axle off the crank arm. Yeah...really. ALSO: When you're putting the new pedals on grease the threads real good with some heavy green waterproof grease. (Help stop the insanity of stuck threads).
ramzilla is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 10:49 PM
  #19  
Hiro11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,031

Bikes: To the right: opinions, not facts.

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 434 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by bulldog1935 View Post
depends on the pedal
I have some Straightline Amp pedals that needs to be torqued or they'll come loose.
That's interesting, I've never had this problem on any pedals. I always grease and then just snug them up.
Hiro11 is offline  
Old 12-28-16, 11:10 PM
  #20  
bulldog1935
Banned.
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Posts: 2,721

Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright

Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
they take the same size hex as a crank bolt, which makes it easy to torque.
never had them come lose, but I've always installed them with a breaker bar.
I think it has to do with polymer bushing and no bearings.
bulldog1935 is offline  
Old 12-29-16, 07:29 AM
  #21  
JonathanGennick 
Senior Member
 
JonathanGennick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Munising, Michigan, USA
Posts: 3,984

Bikes: Priority 600, Priority Continuum, Devinci Dexter

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by jgw View Post
As far as my pedals go I could fit an Allen wrench in them but it would not budge.
Some pedals accept both types of wrench as a convenience to the user. Then you can use whichever style of wrench that you prefer or have on hand. Allen keys can be short, and sometimes leverage is needed to remove a pedal. I keep around a short piece of electrical conduit as a "cheater" to slip over an Allen key to make its handle longer.
JonathanGennick is offline  
Old 12-29-16, 08:01 AM
  #22  
bikecrate
Senior Member
 
bikecrate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LF, APMAT
Posts: 2,221
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 423 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by badger1 View Post
Yep; I've got quite a few of those Park Tool 'how to' thingies laying about -- learning curve detritus.
BTW, your avatar pic -- is that who I think it is? If so, kudos; anyone who 'gets' R A is ok by me!
This time of year I like to watch Merry Christmas Mr. Bean and D.I.Y. Mr. Bean with the New Year's Eve party. The scene of him driving his Mini home from the store is a classic.
bikecrate is offline  
Old 12-29-16, 08:09 AM
  #23  
gregf83 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 8,719
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 876 Post(s)
Liked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by ClydeTim View Post
Pretty easy concept to remember figuring the threads are different form one another.

Left AND right side:

Tightening pedal, turn toward the front.

Loosening, turn toward the back.
Those instructions are ambiguous and assume you are holding the wrench above the pedal. I just remember that when tightening a pedal the chain will be taut.
gregf83 is offline  
Old 12-30-16, 07:25 AM
  #24  
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 22,660

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r

Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2956 Post(s)
Liked 47 Times in 42 Posts
got curious & checked CL for tools found a decent vintage (70s) Zeus pedal wrench, 15mm at one end & 14mm (aka 9/16) at the other end. nice & skinny & long for leverage. bought it from someone who used to have a bike shop. met her in the parking lot of the local library this morning
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
pedal wrench small v2.jpg (98.5 KB, 65 views)

Last edited by rumrunn6; 12-30-16 at 07:40 AM.
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 12-30-16, 07:35 AM
  #25  
bulldog1935
Banned.
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Posts: 2,721

Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright

Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Park tools headset wrench has a pedal wrench at the other end

I agree, you'll never remove pedals with an allen L-wrench.
I use an allen socket and breaker bar

the nice thing about this, is you can always get a one-hand grip on the crank arm for both loosening and tightening.


Last edited by bulldog1935; 12-30-16 at 07:41 AM.
bulldog1935 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.