Pre wrapping handlebars in electrical tape?
#26
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Seems to be usefull to use the tape in reserve direction (sticky way to the tape) for preventing the tape unroll itself when it become damaged.
But to be honest , i never had this issue in a lot of years...
Maybe is usefull to those novices or for cyclocross since seems more common to fall.... i think
But to be honest , i never had this issue in a lot of years...
Maybe is usefull to those novices or for cyclocross since seems more common to fall.... i think
#27
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Thanks for the input everyone else. There's no right or wrong way to do it I guess. It'll make my life easier next time I have to change it though!
#28
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On my bar end shifted top mount Brake CX type bike , There are tape strips to hold the housing down & in position,
but not a whole roll worth , used like the OP , If going to that effort , a roll of Hockey/friction/gaffers tape would be better ..
sticky 1st layer is a Good Base , You could even use cotton handlebar tape , You don't even have to overlap it . save that for the top layer ..
a short strip of cotton tape , lengthways around the curve up top has been used
so the wrapped tape which may not have an adhesive backing , won't develop gaps over time..
but not a whole roll worth , used like the OP , If going to that effort , a roll of Hockey/friction/gaffers tape would be better ..
sticky 1st layer is a Good Base , You could even use cotton handlebar tape , You don't even have to overlap it . save that for the top layer ..
a short strip of cotton tape , lengthways around the curve up top has been used
so the wrapped tape which may not have an adhesive backing , won't develop gaps over time..

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-06-17 at 02:28 PM.
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#31
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I thought they did. I saw a new one on the trails not long ago. I often put a rack and trunk bag on mine too. I have other bikes... my daily rider is now a Trek 1.1 (2014). But I've logged over 8800 miles on the Fuji.
#32
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I have ~13,000 miles on this bike. Several tours including a 5,177 mile trip from Portland, Oregon to Portland, Maine in 2016. I'll be leaving February 15th for the Southern Tier so she'll have another ~3,200 on it by summer. Most of the bike is still original. It's gone through a single tube, a rear axle, a few tires, a few sets of brakes, two chains and one cable change but that's all. I also upgraded the cassette to give myself more gearing.
I leave the rack on permanently since it's been treated with Loctite. The weight doesn't bother me enough when the rack is empty.
You're the first I've met with the same Fuji in this color.
I only have this bike now. I had a Spin and a Trek 7.1 FX but been downsizing over the past few years.
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I don't recall ever cleaning bars before retaping.
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I don't prewrap my bars but to hold the cables in the proper positions I'll use a few wraps of silicone self-fusing tape, zero residue and tacky enough to make sure the tape over the top doesn't move. It also works well as an alternative to electrical tape for finishing your bar wrap.
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#36
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Though if I did wrap the entire bar like that, I would definitely wrap the bar first then I would tape the cables down over that. If i had to make any changes, it would be easier/quicker to not have to destroy all that tape to get to the cables, then to re-wrap all of that.
Back in the 80's shimano included a plastic 'caterpillar' with Aero brake levers to make the tape wrap a little smoother.
and a double ended housing ferrule, So you could leave the under tape housing alone and just replace the exposed portion as needed..

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I've used a few bar tapes that have no glue at all. I'm guessing it was Profile brand tape has no adhesive backing.
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electrical tape is a bad idea overall because it stretches and then slides around over time. bar tape is more stable when stuck directly to the bars.
#43
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I have ~13,000 miles on this bike. Several tours including a 5,177 mile trip from Portland, Oregon to Portland, Maine in 2016. I'll be leaving February 15th for the Southern Tier so she'll have another ~3,200 on it by summer. Most of the bike is still original. It's gone through a single tube, a rear axle, a few tires, a few sets of brakes, two chains and one cable change but that's all. I also upgraded the cassette to give myself more gearing.
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Thanks! Routine maintenance goes a long ways!
#47
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I've done this with hockey stick tape. Have to get the hockey tape perfectly smooth and flat, cork tape overlays nicely and it seems to lay smoother longer and is less affected by handle bar bashes. It does add a slight bulk to handlebar, that was the initial reason I tried it- to fatten the handlebar slightly for my large hands.
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I was thinking similar, use some "Goo-gone" and it will remove in short order. There usually isn't enough residue on the bars for me to even give it a second thought.
#49
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Naw...Gaff is just a highly prized and frequently rare commodity. $250 per 24-roll case is not to be used for non-necessities. Least my boss gets grumpy about buying more cases of black-gold.
Further, long term it leaves gunk on surfaces after heat/sweat.
Further, long term it leaves gunk on surfaces after heat/sweat.
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I've heard this is something racers often do so if a bar wrap gets cut in a crash or swipe or whatever that it doesn't all unravel as it's stuck to the tape on each side of the cut. But it has to be inside out for that, if the residue is on the bar then I suppose it is not that.