Not all fixed gear bikes are made for track racing and with track frame geometry...I have two fixed gear bikes: One is based on a road frame which is more relaxed then a typical track bike...and my other fixie is a MTB frame with fixed gear drivetrain. Both have full fenders and are little bit more upright then a typical track racing bike. Both of my fixies are great for commuting, fitness riding and utility riding...Personally I love riding fixed gear despite some of its limitations.

I have several fixed gear bikes over many years and none of them have been track bikes. As soon as we get a velodrome, I will buy one.

For what it's worth, I've been commuting on a $229 fixed gear for a bit over a year, maybe 50% of my commutes. Maybe 2,000 miles which granted isn't a lot of miles or years. But I have had literally zero issue with this bike and would not hesitate to recommend a fixed gear at that quality level.

I can't say that the cog and chain ring are anything but low end, but the drive train is silent and has never dropped a chain. It may wear out sooner that higher quality cogs and ring and is certainly heavier, but I honestly don't get the criticism with those parts with respect to the ride and safety. It is the nature of fixed gear drive trains to be reliable and efficient.

I also honestly don't "get" the fundamental difference in riding the fixed gear as opposed to single speed. Cornering and going downhill need more care, beyond that you're just turning the pedals and it all seems the same to me.

So my two cents: yes you can get away with buying a $200-$300 fixed gear and you won't necessarily regret it. It all depends on what you want it for and how you ride it.

And what is the perfectly sensible in-joke answer from the BF Singlespeed & Fixed Gear sub-forum to "What basic FG bike should I buy?"

"Kilo TT"

Yep, say what one will BD FG machines are straight and well enough spec'd to work reliably for FG road use, can't say that about the plethora of low $ "fixe-fad" machines that appeared at the height of the craze that were just simply awful junk, and are still out there for sale brand new.

Caveat Emptor.

Hey, it's not 2005 anymore is it? ;)

-Bandera

The one area of quality that really does need care is the rear cog. I spun off the thread on the rear hub just by riding after using a stamped cog. I posted on BF about the problem, and was advised that the cheap, stamped cogslike the one I was using simply don't have the accuracy in threading and shape and the stiffness to be compatible with quality aluminium hubs, no matter how tightly the lock ring is done up.

I got a Surly cog and several others of similar quality after that episode which required walking and scooting the bike around 15km home to complete a century ride. No problems since with the thread on the replacement hub.

There is obviously still some ignorance out there about the current fixed gear road bike market.


-Tim-

+1 this. Spending a few more bucks up front on a decent cog can save you from an expensive wheel replacement or rebuild down the road. If you're not certain what to look for:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/stamped.jpg

The thing is... you can feel the quality straight off. The machined version is heavier for a start, and the edges "crisper", if I can put it that way.

Yep, and don't forget a proper fixed gear chain designed to withstand the unique loads riding FG imposes.
My powerful ex-trackie FG Century riding partner swears by the IZUMI Super Toughness Chain on his machine.
Once again a FG specific component that is not inexpensive but purpose built for the application, $ well spent.

-Bandera

I've been using KMC chains for many years on my FG, they're a little cheaper but I never had one break on me yet.

After installing track cog I go for a short ride and bring my lock ring wrench with me. After standing on the pedals few times, I stop and check the lock ring to see if there is any looseness. If there is any looseness I tighten it and then stand up on the pedals few more time and check again until it's tight. A lot of new fixies come with cogs and lock ring which have not been properly tightened at the shop so it's always a good idea to check, before doing any serious riding.

A high quality chain is a noticeable improvement in drive train efficiency; those $50+ chains may be worth it

I might suggest you look on Craigslist and get a good medium level (originally lists for about $600-$800) SINGLE SPEED bike. I know you typed FIXIE but might I suggest a Single Speed. It will allow you to coast. In my case I bought a Fuji Feather single speed with flip flop hub so it could be both a fixed or a single speed just by flipping the rear wheel.


Then I added very light wheels and light tires.


Changing the wheels and tires made a HUGE Difference. The thing flies now. Same bike but with about $400 worth of wheels/tires.


They feel like two different bikes.


So there is a difference, there are actually so many differences.


But to go back to your OP, my suggestion is buy a used single speed/fixie with a flip flop hub for $200 to $400 bucks and get a chain/bike lock.

I will "Amen!" to the above. Thanks, [MENTION=335281]Bandera[/MENTION].