HARMAR

Hello,

Last year I started biking to and from work a few days a week and really enjoyed doing it, so wanted to continue to do so. My commute is 19KM each way (~12 miles). 75% of it is fairly hilly country roads, with final 25% of it in city but not much lights and have bike lanes.

I treat my commute as also my exercise so I try to push myself. I am not in great shape (210lbs), but was averaging 25km/hour. A couple of the big down hills i love to push myself to see how fast I can go, but cant seem to make the bike get much more than 70km/hour (not that that is a big deal by any means, don't need a bike to go faster).

The hills kill me though and is what prevents me from being able to do it on a daily basis.

I dont lug much with me just have a backpack with a set of clothes and my lunch. My current bike I am having issues with the derailleur constantly skipping gears and chain keeps falling off. I take it to a shop and they tune it but 3 weeks later it back to it's old self.

The current bike I have is a Giant Cypress DX 2011

Looking for is something extremely low maintenance, maybe take it into the shop once at start of season then be good for rest of the season. I do not care about off-roading, riding will be paved only.

I went to the local bike shop, but my head start spinning listening to all the options. He suggested a commuter bike and either something like a Cannondale Quick Disc 5 2017 for a lower end or a Trek Link 5 2015 or 2017 for a mid/higher end that comes with a bunch of built in accessories, better parts, and the 2017 is belt driven.

But now I wonder if I might even be better off just upgrading a bunch of the parts on my current bike, like new wheels, new derailleur, etc

My local bikeshop is ziggyscycle.ca if it gives you an idea of the local options. Unsure on budget, I could potentially do up to 2K but won't complain if I pay much less then that

Wonder if you guys could help me out on coming up with some ideas.


Thanks

jefnvk

Just my opinion, but if it only goes three weeks after a tune up, there is either something fundamentally wrong with the bike that I wouldn't want to put any money into it, or you need a new shop who can properly work on a bike and tell you if it is something simple you can fix with replacement parts.

Maelochs

This twice. Unless something is bent or the mechanics are clowns or You are doing something horrible ("You mean I shouldn't hang my bike from a ceiling hook by the derailleur?") there is no way the bike should constantly go out of adjustment.

In any case .... if you only ride on the road, get a road bike. Hills are easier when you are hauling less bike.

Don't get it at Zerocycle.ca ... Not a shop i would trust after the third time they "fixed" it so it was still broken.

blakcloud

I suspect your drive train is worn out and needs replacing, hence the skipping gears. Even if you upgraded the drive train I don't think your bike is the best for the long commute you have. The front shocks to me are dead weight and only hinder you especially on the up hills. I like the other bikes you posted but there is a huge price discrepancy between the two you posted. The Lync 5 with belt drive is the cat's meow when it comes to commuter bikes.

Depending on the money you want to spend, I would suggest a MEC Chance or the 8 speed version the Hold Steady.

HARMAR

Perhaps it was the mechanic I used, it was one I didn't use before so not sure. So you would suggest a road bike over a commuter? If so, do you have any recommendations?
Thanks!

Maelochs

Depends how much you want to spend

HARMAR

The Lync 5 seems really nice, are the commuter bikes suitable for steep hilly terrain? Google maps says in the first 5 miles (8km) of my ride I have 240 feet of gain. Dunno if that is a lot or not, but sure feels like it, and makes me really tired. Luckily the rest of my ride is relatively flat. I have a total of 320 on the way there and 456 feet of gain on the way back

wphamilton

I would, BUT it's 100% a personal predilection. Road bikes are more fun because you go more fast. However, with a good number of hills you might prefer a triple chain-ring, which you don't see very often on road bikes. For 12 miles, a rack is sometimes very nice, and for more daily commutes you'll want fenders, year-round you'll add lights. All of this, if you can fit this equipment on a given road bike, negates the purpose to some extent. Adding weight, drag from the air. So a flat bar or hybrid could as easily be your preference. It boils down to what you like.

For my part, I have configured two bikes. One a traditional road bike, one more traditional commuter, and ride whichever suites the conditions or whim. I'd be inclined to fix up the Giant Cypress AND get a road bike.

Maelochs

I don't really divide between "raod bike" and "commuter." I divide between "road bike" and "hybrid."

My "commuter is a Dawes Sheila with full lights and a rack and two bottle cages. I can carry a ton of gear depending on which panniers I bring. I can attach a handlebar bag if like. I have a large seat bag so I can carry a bunch of tools and spares and patches and a pump. I also have a stem bag for food and anything I want handy while I ride.

It is a lot lighter than any hybrid, plenty tough for any terrain, could take pretty wide tires (28 maybe) if I wanted but I don't find the need.

it has a study but not harsh aluminum fame and a carbon fork with an Al steerer, so I can run a lot of spacers so i don't have to reach past my knees for the handlebars. Still, if it is really windy i can get in the drops and get a little bit under it.

When I think "commuter" I generally think drop-bars ... I guess a lot of peple think flat bars. Either wiorks .... the only difference is the seat and bars. The rest---frame, gearing, wheels, carrying capacity---should all be the same.

I do Not recommend getting what is essentially a weak mountain bike for commuting. A lot of people get bikes with cheap, heavy suspension forks and overweight frames and wheels which are way overkill for commuting but not strong enough for actual mountain-biking.

When I think "hybrid" that's what I think of--a fork which can't really take a hit, a frame too heavy for the street and too weak for the trails, and a bike which does neither roads nor trails particularly well.

Just my personal bias. Lots of people have hybrids and love them, and I am sure many do roads and trails well.

I would recommend any road bike with an aluminum frame and carbon fork, or all steel, or steel with a CF fork, with fender and rack mounts. Flat or drop bars is just a personal preference.

cmc4130

Definitely agree with the above. Sometimes low end drivetrains are just not worth sticking with. And it's not really worth replacing a crankset and drivetrain on a low end bike either. It's usually easier to sell it complete and then buy another complete.

I'm 6'1", 215, and I notice that sometimes on casual or lower end bikes, there is crank arm flex. On my mountain bikes and BMX bikes that have extra-stiff/strong cranksets, this doesn't happen.

And I definitely agree with blakcloud about the suspension fork. Ditch it for road riding.


HARMAR, how tall are you? Check these out:

Giant Seek 2 Hybrid mountain/road Bike - $400 (Toronto)
https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/bik/6055593419.html

Norco CCX2 - Cyclocross Bike - $750 (toronto)
https://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/bik/6065514954.html

HARMAR

Im almost same size as you, 6' 215lbs
Unfortunely I am an hour west of toronto, so a bit out of the way to look like it.
Thank you for the info!

veganbikes

Skip Trek, Cannondale and Giant. Take a look at something like the Focus Urban Pro which is a cracking bike for commuting: Hydro disc brakes, Gates Carbon belt drive w/ 8 speed alfine hub, integrated lights in the fenders powered by a shutter precision dynamo and it has a nice comfortable upright position (not like a "comfort" bike which tend to be for me uncomfortable, clunky and heavy) and add to the comfort some Ergon grips which are a great upgrade to any flat bar bike. I have ridden the bike many times and I love it. I wanted to hate it initially because I am not really a fan of the upright but damn if it didn't grow on me quickly and now I kind of want one or a version of one with some minor changes cause I hate stock bikes : )

Basically the bike is well spec'd from the box and very low maintenance. Much better than a good deal of similar clones like what Trek tried to make. If the bike shop is cool, I would certainly still support them for service and other things at least until they get bought by Trek and sell nothing but Trek and Bontrager stuff completely as a lot of Trek dealers are doing (I have seen a bunch of them go full Trek and I think the plan is to rapidly expand)

I wish Trek made decent bikes but sadly they are too busy trying to come up with new letter combinations for A,D,E,M,N and O as well as finding ways to cut costs on their bikes and giving you the illusion of a custom bike which is just a more expensive, better spec'd bigshot fixed gear bike almost. (ok that last one is a little stretch)

nycphotography

There is no reason that bike can't serve well for a 12 mile commute for as long as you want. It's a decent bike with good components.

OP:

If going up the hills is killing you, I have to ask if you're shifting the front chainring? pics show that bike with a triple, and with those gears you should be able to get up the hills. Up to 7% or 8% at least.

As your fitness improves, if you want a faster bike, you can always get a road bike, or gravel bike, or whatever kind of bike you want. But there is no urgency in it. You have a bike. Get it straightened out by a good mechanic ride it while you research and read about different kinds of bikes you might get.

Odds of the entire drive train being shot are extremely low.

More than likely a combination of new chain, derailleur hanger alignment, new shifter cables, proper cable routing and installation, and it's good for a year.

Actually, new cables will have to stretch in, and you'll probably need a quick tweak in a few weeks. But then it should be good for a while.

Viich

Agree 100% - I flipped one of those and it had decent components and was a quality bike. Probably my best and lowest effort flip - other than a rusty chain and the brakes out of adjustment, there wasn't really anything wrong with it. I may have had to mess with the shifting a bit, but not so much that I remember it.

I'd have kept it except that I didn't like the riding position.

StoneFence

I have a road bike with a triple chain ring.

I have a Jamis Satellite Sport. It's steel. The comp model has a carbon fork. This bike is discontinued but I bet one could be found NIB. The Quest (which is a current model) also has a triple chain ring.

I am thoroughly enjoying it.

MRT2

That is what my wife rides. While it is true it came with a triple, it was still geared a bit too high for steep hills, IMO. We modded my wife's bike, by switching out the cassette from a 12 - 26 to an 11 - 32 cassette. Unfortunately, we also had to change the rear derailleur as well. Now, her bike a low gear of 25 gear inches, which is low enough to get her over the steepest hills, and even using the middle chainring, her lowest gear is 33 gear inches, which is low enough to get over most hills without using the granny gear.

Paul Barnard

If the hills are kicking your butt, pay close attention to the gearing on whatever bike you end up on. You'll most assuredly appreciate a lighter higher end bike if it is geared right for you. The Cypress has very upright, cruiser-like ergonomics. When you test ride, a more aggressive riding position will feel odd at first, but you'll adapt to it.

italktocats

hill dont get easier, you just get faster

and im betting your current (upright) bike is better for blasting hills than a roadbike, just easier to put the power into the pedals

Fastfingaz

Now look at it this way,, you state you're not in the best shape,,, so you don't need a lighter bike you need a heavier that's right so you have to strap more weight on to bike and ride it like that till you reach desired weight say 175-180 now you can get your road bike,,,,

curbowman

What I don't like about commuter bikes is that most are designed with no gears for hills. A triple chainring is a must if your commute involves hills and luggage.

Also, take your current bike to a different shop, even if that means doing a long trip for a day. A decent shop should have an honest mechanic that can either fix your bike or tell you why he can't.

I am a luthier, and more than once I've had to tell a customer to take his guitar to another tech because I just couldn't repair it. Good bike (and guitar) shops are scarce, and having a good reputation is much more valuable than any single customer.

A good bike shop will tell you how to upgrade your bike, how much that could cost, and which new bikes could fulfill your needs.

And wether you buy or upgrade, please post pictures!

HARMAR

Thanks everyone for your posts and advice. I think what I am going to do is take my current bike to a better shop and put a little money into fixing it for this year. Get them to fix whatever the problem is with the skipping gears, get some new wheels, etc.

Then next year I think I will revist getting a better bike. Ill do more research over this year, perhaps see if I can test a couple different styles of bikes
There is apparently a huge bike show near me in January that offers good deals, so might check that out next January.

CrankyOne

Any bike with external gears or brakes will require frequent maintenance. It's the nature of the beast. This is why you mostly only see them for racing bikes outside of the North America. People who aren't racing tend to prefer internal gears and brakes for a number of reasons.

More: City Bikes | LocalMile

What you describe is exactly what city bikes are designed for. Given the hills in your area I'd suggest a good city bike with electric assist. This will allow you to ride comfortably in regular clothes, give you a bit of assist going up the hills, and allow you to arrive to your destination with no sweat (like literally, no sweat, none of the wet smelly stuff). Gazelle have some quite good e-bikes. BSP have recently introduced some that I think are a bit better than Gazelle. If you go the e-bike route then make sure to get one with a good torque sensor as other systems are not very smooth and become more like a scooter than simply providing a bit of assist when necessary.

Good luck in your search. You'll enjoy it and enjoy riding whatever you choose.

Phil_gretz

No so. Triples are pretty inefficient. My commuter has an 11-32T 11-speed rear, and a 34/46 double up front. The gearing is plenty low for a hilly commute with luggage. I said commute, though, not fully loaded touring.